Buni Zom, South Face. The Bernina Alpine Club Expedition was led by Masao Okabe and had five more members. They left Chitral on July 14 and began walking at Koghozi on the 16th. They went via Birmoha, Romen, Golen Gol, Chakholi, Bokht, Phargam An ...
Changwatang (6,130m), second ascent, west ridge. Five Japanese led by Michihiro Honda and four experienced Sherpas made the second ascent of Changwatang, a summit just south of the Tibetan border peaks of the Chandi Himal, due north of Simikot air...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. The year’s activities commenced with a showing of the full length color-and-sound movie of the Japanese conquest of Manaslu in the Himalayas. In the spring Fred Ayres gave an illustrated program on his most recent climbing...
Mount Spickard (Glacier Peak II), Chilliwacks, North Glacier Route. The glacier route on the north side of Mount Spickard was first climbed by Marilyn Loranger, A1 Tatyrek, Dan Hendricks, Bill Van de Graaff, John Stout, Ruth Ittner, and me on Augu...
Kilimanjaro Porter Assistance ProjectHEC porter assistance expanded to Africa and South America. On September 17, as the many climbers waited in their tents for a late season storm to pass, three porters on Mt. Kilimanjaro were not so lucky. These...
Titan, West Face and River Tower, Fisher Towers. An 11-pitch route was made but not reported in the fall of 1973 by Lou Dawson and Harvey T. Carter with Kenney Williams and Mike Kennedy working on the first six pitches but unable to return for the...
Washington, Cascades, Mt. Snoqualmie—On May 11 a large party of 60 Mountaineers were on an experience climb on Mt. Snoqualmie. They had reached the summit and at about 12 noon were starting the descent. Three of the party were ahead of Cecil Schmi...
FALLING ROCK—California, Yosemite Valley. Michael Cannon (23) and Mark Richey (19) had just come off the Steck-Salathe route on Sentinel Peak. Richey had tied himself to the wall and Cannon was behind a large flake on a sizeable ledge. The next th...
Shisha Pangma Central, Pre-Monsoon Ascents and Attempt. Three ascents were made to the central summit of Shisha Pangma before the monsoon by the normal route. None of the climbers continued on to the slightly higher main summit. A large expedition...
Stroud Peak, North Face. Fred Beckey and I made the first ascent of this face on August 28. The route generally followed up a concavity on the right of the face to a large, rubble-covered ledge about three-fourths of the way up; it then traversed ...
REYNOLD E. ISTO 1914-1965Reynold E. "Pete” Isto died after a fall on South Maroon Peak near Aspen, Colorado on August 23, 1965.A graduate of the South Dakota School of Mines with a degree in Engineering, he was Chief of Plans and Production for th...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. The highlight in a busy year was the Club’s outing in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado, 5-17 August 1951. With 62 members and guests, this was the largest outing in the Club’s history. Base camp was established i...
Lembert Dome, Lunar Leap. This short climb, first done by Russ McLean, Mike Cohen and me in July, 1969, lies just left of the Water Cracks. We climbed directly up to a ledge between the first and second of three arches, traversed left beneath the ...
Drury Falls. Drury Falls is one of the more spectacular ice climbs in the central Cascades. Located three miles west of Castle Rock in Tum-water Canyon, this single waterfall produces 900 feet of steep ice climbing. Early in March 1976 on the firs...
Artesonraju, South Face. Maurice Barrard soloed the south face of Artesonraju, not a first ascent, on August 6, 1977. On June 9, 1978 Patrick Vallençant soloed the face and then descended it on skis.
Minapin or Diran. An Austrian party from Salzburg in May unsuccessfully attempted Minapin or Diran (23,861 feet), being driven back by bad weather, deep snow and avalanche danger. The climbers were Walter Fritsch, Heinz Eggert and Herbert Edtbaker.
Dhaulagiri, South Face Attempt. A four-man international team, consisting of Italian Reinhold Messner, Austrian Peter Habeler, German Otto Wiedemann and me from the United States, attempted the unclimbed south face of Dhaulagiri (26,795 feet). T...
El Capitán, Southwest Face. A completely new route was made on the 3400-foot face of El Capitán by Chuck Pratt, Tom Frost and Royal Robbins. Three separate pushes were required to finish the climb: September 12-13 (two full days), September 15–16 ...
The Colorado Mountain Club. The club grew in 1993 to over 9000 members divided among 20 individual groups in the state and nearly 200 “Friends” elsewhere in the world. A major accomplishment was joining with the American Alpine Club in establishin...
Alpamayo, Kitaraju, Pilanco and Loyaqjirka. On August 6 Juan Ignacio Lorente, Angel Rosen, Juan Ramón Arrúe, Ricardo Gallardo, Quique de Pablos, Luis María Sáenz de Olazagoitia, José Urbieta, Felipe Uriarte, Martín Zabaleta, Rafael Chávarri, Juan ...