Mexican Expedition to the Cordillera Real. The Mexican Expedition to the Bolivian Andes visited the Cordillera Real during the winter months of June, July and August and reached eight important summits. Three of these were in the Illimani group. O...
JOHN HENRY STRONG 1867-1960On January 19 of this year, the American Alpine Club’s oldest member, Dr. John Henry Strong, died in Santa Barbara, California, at the age of 93.Dr. Strong was a Baptist minister and teacher, and the son of one. As a boy...
Longs PeakRobert M. OrmesIT happened that I was in the Rocky Mountain National Park last summer helping the Fox Movietone News with one of their occasional projects to over-and under-paint the Sensational Sport of Mountaineering, when it was vigor...
Our ledge, hanging cockeyed and dripping wet, was our only refuge from the tempestuous storm that had been lingering now for five days. Alex, Mark and I had tried three days in a row to lead one miserable pitch with no luck. “I can’t believe how ...
Shipton Spire, new route attempt. Bulgarians Milkana Ruseva, Dimitar Tzolov, Stanimir Zhelyazkov, and I climbed a variation start to Ship of Fools. We started up the face between Akelarre and the 1992 American attempt, joined the former, and after...
Gleanings in the Canadian Rockies, 1930Max M. Strumia and William R. HainsworthMt. RobsonIN PLANNING a mountain trip, few of us will wilfully detract from the pleasure of it by giving more than the barest minimum of thought to the uncertainties of...
Tehipite DomeFred BeckeyIf Tehipite Dome were in Yosemite Valley, it would come close to rivaling El Capitan in height and grandeur. But it is located in the wilderness of the Middle Fork of the Kings River, and here it has no rival. Its 7700-foot...
AAC, New England Section. 1998 saw the beginning of a renewal of the Section as a more cohesive social entity and, perhaps in the future, a working entity as well. We have striven to gather the membership together more often than in the past and t...
Mount Waddington, the Dalgleish Face. Being blessed with more brawn than brains, John Harlin and I decided to attempt Mount Waddington from the sea. And, being accustomed since adolescence to biting off more than we could chew, we also decided to ...
Of the many formations that punctuate the American desert, none commands more attention than Shiprock, called "Tsabehtai” by the Navajos. Soaring 2000 feet above the plain of the San Juan River in northwestern New Mexico, to the early Anglo-Americ...
RAPPEL ERROR – UNEVEN ROPES, FALL ON ROCKNew York, ShawangunksOn May 21,I met my friend Dana B. in the West Trapps lot for a day of climbing in the Gunks. I’ve been climbing for over 15 years and have climbed all over the country; I’ve lead honest...
FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION California, Mount Whitney, East FaceOn September 10, 1994, six climbers were on the East Face Route of Mount Whitney. Brad Berdoy (38) was leading the Fresh Air Traverse when he realized he was off ro...
The Centennial Climb on Mount VancouverJ. Vincent HoemanIn 1874 W. H. Dali and Marcus Baker of the U. S. Coast Survey named Mounts Cook and Vancouver from the sea, but somehow the names and elevations must have gotten scrambled, as they mapped Coo...
Ascents and Traverses in the Jallawaya Group. On October 10, the brothers Gregorio and Juan Mamani, both of the Club Andino Boliviano, and I set out from La Paz to climb in the area located south of Chachakumani and north of the Jichuquta Valley (...
LEWIS FROTHINGHAM CLARK1900-1991Lewis Frothingham Clark was born in Boston on October 29, 1900 and died on March 8, 1991 at the age of 90. The family moved to California when he was four years old. He was a member of the American Alpine Club for w...
MARY GODDARD POTTER1865-1943Dr. Potter, who died on January 13th, 1943, in her 79th year, was born in Barre, Mass. She was a graduate of Boston University and took her medical degree at New York University in 1903. She became a physical training t...
Spiti, Singekang Valley, Singekang (6,008m), attempt; Snaght Kang (5,500m), north ridge. In October and November six mountaineers from Ireland and the UK (Martin Boner, George Carlton, Sandra Kennedy, Alan Tees, Andrew Tees, and I) made an attempt...
FALL ON ROCK—FALLING ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION California, Sequoia National Park, Devil’s Crag #1On September 1, David Dykeman (64) and Herbert Buehler, members of the California Mountaineering Club, were descending from the summit of Devil’s Cr...
Glacier National Park, Various Ascents. Beginning in the winter of 1995-96, new ice routes have been discovered and climbed in Glacier National Park. The first area to be explored was the southwest face on Mt. Cannon. Kirby Spangler and Marc Vener...
Ganzi Tibetan Prefecture, Mt. Chola (6,148m), third ascent; correction to 1988 “Cheru” ascent and altitude. We made the third known successful ascent of Mt. Chola (Lat: 31° 48' 0", Long: 99° 7' 0") on July 22, 2003. Chola is located in western Sic...