FALL ON SNOW—CRAMPON CAUGHT IN CLOTHING, UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTWashington, Mount StuartOn July 16, Teresa Soucie (41)—a member of the King County Search and Rescue Team—was beginning her descent of the Cascadian Couloir on Mount Stuart when she tri...
Himalayan Vignettes: Garwhal and Sikkim Treks. Kekoo Naoroji. Bombay, India: The Himalayan Club, 2003. 236 pages. Hardcover. $60.00.Himalayan Vignettes is a large format, coffee table photo-essay of expeditions to the Garwal and Sikkim by Indian t...
Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies. Sean Dougherty. Rocky Mountain Books, Calgary, Alberta. 1991. 320 pages. 129 marked photos. Several sketch maps. Soft cover. $19.95.It is a truism that the younger crowd always believes that its pred...
In late July, after climbing the Ibex Horn [see Afghanistan section], I flew from Kabul to Urumqi, then on to Aksu, where I met local Chinese friends (liaison officer and driver). We drove for a full day to a final military check point at Akqi. I ...
The summer of 2000 was another exceptionally dry one in the Teton Range. Many of the big alpine routes on the Grand Teton were essentially dry rock climbs by midsummer, a condition that has become all too common during the last decade. The Black I...
FALL ON ROCKNew Hampshire, Cathedral Ledge, RecompenseA party of two climbed Recompense, and the leader fell while on the crux third pitch. He fell 10 to 15 feet and hit a ledge, badly breaking his leg. The climbers had the experience and knowledg...
Koskulak (7,028m), first and second ascents by the west ridge and third ascent by the north face. Koskulak is situated in the Muztagh Ata Range and can be reached by the same route and logistics as Muztagh Ata itself. Until 2005 it remained unclim...
Everest from Tibet in the Pre-Monsoon. The Nepalese government’s limited number of permits to climb Everest from the south is clearly having its effect. In the spring of 1993, fifteen expeditions on the Nepalese side put a total of 81 men and wome...
The Japanese Manaslu Expedition, 1953Y. MITABY April 13th all the expedition members had gathered at Sama base camp (12,664 ft.). The caravan, in two parties, consisting or 15 Sahibs, 2 Nepali interpreters, and 270 porters had taken 18 days from K...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY – ROPE TOO SHORT, INATTENTIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Manure Pile ButtressI’d like to say it was a cold, blustery, winter day and our heads were foggy and our brains numb from the bitter temperatures. And I’d lik...
Peak 5,600m, first ascent; Dangchezhengla (Bongonzhong, 5,830m), north side. Steve Hunt, Dick Isherwood, Peter Rowat, and I spent October in Western Sichuan, exploring the northern approaches to Yangmolong (6,066m) and attempting to climb it. In g...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, Tchaikazan GlacierThe accident occurred during the Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Section summer mountaineering camp in the Tchaikazan Glacier area, 110 miles no...
FALL ON SNOW-CARRYING TOO MUCHAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 23 around 0800, Priska Landolt (30) of the Glaronia-Swiss Expedition was descending below the fixed lines around 15,000 feet when she hooked her left ski tip and heard a pop...
Patagonian Orocline Expedition—1967-68Kerry Burns, UnaffiliatedIN 1967 AND 1968, MIKE RICKARD AND I, had the chance to explore one of the worlds’s most uncharted regions in the name of science.Our trip really began in 1954 when the English physici...
Canyonlands. Jeff Achey and I did several noteworthy new routes in Can- yonlands in October. On The Lighthouse we climbed Lonely Vigil (II, 5.9) the central crack system on the secluded, back side of the spire. An unknown party had also recently c...
Infinite SouthAn infinite journey on an infinite wall by Ermanno SalvaterraIn the early days of October we confront the south face of Cerro Torre where, the year before, we had ascended nearly 200 meters. On that attempt our friend, Fabio Stedile,...
Southern Appalachian Section. Throughout 2011, the Southern Appalachian Section focused on growing our membership base and producing relevant local club events. The Section's membership exhibited healthy growth across the region. This in turn enab...
Changabang and. Dunagiri Attempts. The members of our expedition were Andrzej Pawlik, Andrzej Mirga, Marek Kozik, Tadeusz Preyzner, Zbigniew Dudrak, Dr. Andrzej Pilc, Wojciech Paszynski and I as leader. We had hoped to attempt the north side of Ch...
Heather L. Paul 1970-2005The most touching part of Heather Paul’s memorial service occurred near the end. A nurse and several physicians she had worked with came to the podium and paid tribute to an aspect of her life that we mountain comrades had...
Mt. St. Elias, ascent and paraglider descent. On June 16 Hamish Robertson (Australia) became the first person to paraglide from the summit of Mt. St. Elias. He flew all 18,000 vertical feet of the mountain and 21 miles horizontally to land on the ...