An Alpine Traverse of Fairweather and Quincy AdamsJames WickwireFOR several years I had regarded Mount Fairweather as a formless blob of snow, but on a flight to Anchorage last February I caught a close but fleeting glance of sharply defined ice r...
FALLING ROCK, HANDHOLD FAILEDQuebec, Mont Gros BrasS.C. (25) and R.B. (29) were climbing “Valerie Reverie”, a 5.8 route at Mont Gros Bras. R.B. was leading the chimney on the third pitch when he pulled off a large rock which hit S.C. on the left s...
Alone on Dorje Lhakpa Carlos BuhlerDorje LHAKPA IS A RELATIVELY UNEXPLORED BUT BEAUTIFUL PEAK in the Jugal Himal, in the southern part of the same group that includes Shisha Pangma. It is 55 kilometers northeast of Kathmandu, near the eastern end ...
The First Ascent of Brussels PeakRaymond C. GarnerIN THE SUMMER of 1947 my wife and I spent two and one half months making movies in the Canadian Rockies. We travelled the Banff-Jasper highway many times, and became quite familiar with the view ju...
The Age of Mountaineering by James Ramsey Ullman. Philadelphia:J. B. Lippincott Company, 1964. 364 pages. Price $7.50.The 1964 edition of James Ramsey Ullman’s The Age of Mountaineering differs little from its 1954 predecessor. The author has appe...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONAlberta, Banff National Park, Bow FallsOn February 12, The Mountaineers party began their approach across the frozen lake at 9:00 a.m., with all on snowshoes except Gordon Schryer (32), who was on skis. They arriv...
New England Section. On March 20 the New England Section held its 14th annual Formal Dinner at the elegant Henderson House in Weston, Mass. Walt Hampton displayed his photographs Where Awe Dwells: Journeys in the Great Ranges. Our guest speaker wa...
Emperor Ridge, Mount Robson. Our spirits were high as Ron Perla and I hiked up above Kinney Lake under our ponchos late Sunday afternoon, July 16. We felt fortunate to find the often attempted Emperor Ridge still unclimbed. Monday morning was clea...
Kanchenjunga, via First-Ascent Route. Our 20-person expedition left Munich for Kathmandu on March 9 but had delays caused by customs on the Indian frontier, final permission difficulties, a shortage of motor transport and a lack of porters. The tw...
Climbing in Czechoslovakia and East Germany. My trip to Czechoslovakia was much enhanced by the warmth and hospitality of the many Czech climbers with whom I climbed. Our first climbing was on the 50- meter limestone cliffs just outside of Prague ...
Mount Everest. Our team members were Lloyd Gallagher, John Amatt, Tim Auger, Robert Baillie, Alan Burgess, James Blench, Dwayne Congdon, Jim Elzinga, Roger Marshall, Dave McNab, Pat Morrow, Dave Read, Gordon Smith, Laurie Skreslet, Don Serl and I ...
Peak 11,300', Baja Lime. Dakota Soifer and I, both of Boulder, Colorado, decided to vacation on the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier in May 2001. We finished finals, packed our gear, and flew to the Last Frontier.On our second day on the glacier we “...
Northern Rockies Section. In March, Access Fund Policy Director Jason Keith asked the Section to rally a letter writing campaign in support of re-opening the Twin Sisters at Idaho’s City of Rocks for climbing. Thanks are due to all who responded. ...
On September 12 Ty Mack, Mike Anderson, and I made the first ascent of Last Go Round, on the northwest buttress of Temple Peak. The route takes a pronounced splitter crack on the far left side of the buttress. I had attempted the route in the f...
K2: The Story of the Savage Mountain. Jim Curran. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1995. 271 pages. Black-and-white photographs, 16 in color, seven maps and topographical drawings. $24.95.Many are the books about individual expeditions to K2, the world’...
FALLING SNOW/ICE—CORNICE COLLAPSEWashington, Mount Rainier, Panorama PointOn April 30, Rainier Mountaineering, Inc., was conducting the second day of their annual guide tryouts. There were 52 applicants and about 15 RMI guides who had hiked to the...
Wind River RangeGannett Peak was climbed by several new ways this past summer. Henry Coulter, Beckett Howorth, and Charles Webb ascended by way of the N. E. snow face to a saddle on the N. ridge just below the big step. From here the N. ridge was ...
Big Four, Tower Route. This 4000-foot north-side route was completed by Ben Guydelkon and Ron Miller on July 25. From the end of the ice-caves trail, they traversed to the northeast side of the first tower to a prominent gully. Climbing this gully...
Sivalaya, by Louis Baume. Reading: Gastons-West Col Publications, 1978. 316 pages, 30 sketches and maps. Price £12.Not everyone will appreciate this book, but for the next several years it will remain the definitive work on the history of the 8000...
Cascades summary. It was another good snow year in the Cascades. After a stable period in February, cool and snowy conditions generally prevailed into spring. In late March, Jens Holsten and Dan Hilden climbed a new line on the northeast face of C...