FALLING ROCK, LOOSE ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS Wyoming, Wind River Range, Seneca LakeA backpacking and climbing party of eight, all from Minnesota, left the trailhead at the Elkhart Park Guard Station, in the Winds, on July 17, 1992, at 1200. The...
FitzRoy by the SupercouloirJosé Luis Fonrouge and Carlos E. Comesaña, Centro Andino Buenos AiresTranslated by H. Adams CarterAs if the Pampa, tired of meekness, were kicking up its heels to shake off its centuries-old pace, the fantastic pyramid o...
DAVID DUANE PAISLEY1961–2000Colorado Springs-based professional guide and mountaineer David Paisley died May 31 as the result of a crevasse fall while descending Mt. Bona in Alaska after a successful ascent.An all-around alpinist, Dave was a nonsp...
FALL ON SNOW – LOSS OF CONTROL ON VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENTWashington, Mount Rainier, Near Camp MuirOn the afternoon of July 17, a group of friends from Fort Lewis Air Force Base were coming down from Camp Muir after a ...
FORESTA HODGSON WOOD 1904-1951Seldom in any lifetime does one meet a person successful in so many ways, so gifted and so charming as Foresta Hodgson Wood. During her full and happy days, she warmed and enriched the lives of all who knew her. Prosp...
Two Japanese Expeditions to Mount Logan’s East Ridge. The Kansei Gakuin University Expedition was led by Kinichi Murota, who was flown in with supplies by Jack Wilson to the base of the mountain. The others, Kazuo Senda, Takuo Imai, Ichiro Mitoda,...
Mount Fury, North Rib. From our camp on the Challenger Arm, Fred Beckey and I contoured south on the glacier past Crooked Thumb and Phantom to the northwest base of Fury. Here we crossed under the main ice cliff on Fury, rushing through a few aval...
The West Ridge of Mount CrillonLoren H. Adkins, UnaffiliatedON May 16 Bruce Tickell, Marsha Adkins and I set out from Juneau in a 13-foot Boston Whaler outboard. In a day we traveled to Johns Hopkins Inlet in Glacier Bay, picking up Dick Benedict ...
Gran Trono Blanco. On March 29 and 30, Paul McLaughlin and I completed the second ascent and first clean ascent of the intimidating south wall (A.A.J., 1976, p. 477). We used the one and only fixed piton, a baby angle driven ¾ of an inch for the t...
On October 25 Alexey Korochkev, Sergey Nilov (both from Moscow), and I left Kathmandu for Besisahar, with the aim of making the first ascent of Thulagi. We had little information on this mountain, the best being a report from the 2008 Japanese exp...
1951-761977GeographicalDistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta57239912215British Columbia923116216940Yukon Territory101028090Ontario3638204Quebec6220101East Arctic000205W...
Bandaka Group. Setting out on June 10, the Manchester Hindu Kush Expedition travelled overland to Afghanistan, using an ex-army truck. It took us over a month from Manchester to Ghonju. In twelve days we completed the 95-mile walk, with men and ho...
Old Routes and New in the Cordillera BlancaCharles FowlerI WENT TO SOUTH AMERICA in May of 1988 to pursue my profession as a mountain guide. For starters, I traveled to Bolivia and escorted a group from Illinois up the standard route on Illimani S...
Winter ascents of 8,000m peaks, commentary. Katia Lafaille, wife of the renowned Jean Christophe Lafaille, recently reported about the excellent achievement of her husband on Shishapangma, which took place on December 11. Much to my surprise the i...
Vascos al Himalaya: 1974-1992, crónica de una aventura. Antonio Ortega, editor. Pyrenaica. Bilbao, Spain, 1992. 264 pages, 364 color illustrations. Hardbound.Everest: el desafío de un sueño. Rodrigo Jordán. Editora Ograma, Santiago, Chile, 1992. 1...
Yosemite Valley, 1982. Rock climbing continues to flourish in Yosemite National Park, and each year there seem to be more climbers in the valley than the previous year. Certain areas are extremely crowded on the weekends in the spring and fall, no...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mt. Moran—On August 25, Judy Grove (20), Pat Van Elton (20), and Barbara Nelson (20) all seasonally employed by the Grand Teton Lodge Company, rowed across Leigh Lake in a borrowed boat and set off up the easter...
Cholatse, Southwest Ridge, 1993 Solo Ascent. I went to Nepal along with the 1993 American Cholatse team on September 23 (see AAJ 1994, page 218). After a few days of recovering from bronchitis and other problems at Base Camp I started the ascent o...
Paine Towers. Two expeditions, one English and the other Italian, strove for the same objectives during the first days of 1963 in a most unfortunate rivalry. They were struggling to reach the unclimbed summits of two of the sheer granite spires of...
Mount Pool, Badshot, Selkirks. On August 18 my wife Gretchen and I drove from Argenta to Beaton and then along the Imcomappleux River to the abandoned mining town of Camborne at 1800 feet. We packed up a jeep road along Pool and Mohawk Creeks for ...