Feature Article AAJ
The East Face of Liberty Bell

The East Face of Liberty BellAlex BertulisALTHOUGH Washington State is well known for its picturesque mountains which lie in full view of its cities and highways, until recently only a handful of mountain climbers and fishermen ever ventured into ...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Call of the Mountains

The Call of the Mountains, by Colin Wyatt. 96 pages, 75 illustrations and 9 sketch maps. London: Thames and Hudson, 1952. Price, 35/-.The “call” is ski-mountaineering. The places are many, but mostly less-known mountains. About eight illustrations...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Sentinel Range, Vinson Massif, Vinson, New height (4,892m), First Ascents of Sub-Peaks, Many New Peak Names

Vinson, new height (4,892m), first ascents of sub-peaks, many new peak names. As the name implies, Vinson Massif is a large bulk of mountain with numerous summits. Though the main summit, first climbed in December 1966, has now had over 950 ascent...


Club Activities AAJ
Sierra Club

Sierra Club. Mountaineering activities continued on many fronts during 1955. Group outings during the summer included High Trips or Base Camps in the Tetons, Glacier National Park, Mount Rainer, northern Yosemite National Park, and the Minarets an...


Feature Article AAJ
Psychological Aspects of Mountaineering

Psychological Aspects of MountaineeringJ. W. A. HicksonIT would indeed be a very confident and naive person who believed that, at this stage in the history of mountaineering, anything new could be said concerning the reasons which lead, or even im...


Feature Article AAJ
Shishapangma's Southwest Face

Shishapangma’s Southwest FaceDouglas Scott, Alpine Climbing GroupSHISHAPANGMA LIES a hundred miles west-northwest of Everest to the north of Nepal and wholly in Tibet. The Tibetan name means “The Crest above the Grassy Plain.” The Sanskrit name, G...


Feature Article AAJ
Aquilpo and Atlante, Cordillera Blanca

Aquilpo and Atlante, Cordillera BlancaGary Ziegler, unaffiliatedclimbing in the Andes defies all attempts at organization and planning. Despite knowing this, months in advance we prepared plans and complex time-tables of where and when we would be...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai, Karavshin, Ak-su valley, Pamir Pyramid, West Face

Ak-su valley, Pamir Pyramid, west face. The Anglo-German team of Daniel Danzer, Jens and Michael Richter, Markus Stofer, and Sarah and Tony Whitehouse climbed a new route on Pik 3,700m, the pyramid that stands immediately west of the Russian Tower...


Notes ANAM
Regional Safety Activities

Geographical Distribution of Accidents:1947-19531954Atlantic States—North 113South10Colorado293Utah40Wyoming163Montana & Idaho33Arizona & New Mexico41California185Oregon143Washington146Alaska13Practice Cliffs All Areas42TerrainRock8316Snow...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Kun Lun Shan, Chakragil, West Ridge

Chakragil, West Ridge. While taking advantage of a free week during a visit to the far reaches of Xinjiang Province in northwestern China, I climbed the west ridge of Chakragil (22,071'). I took no map or altimeter and am therefore uncertain of th...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Protection Came Off California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Muir Wall

Although I had climbed several walls in Zion, I had never climbed El Capitan; in fact, I had never even been to the Valley. Yosemite, and El Capitan in particular, had been built up in my mind, the ultimate destination and the ultimate goal. ...

| Published 2011


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Baintha Kabata, First Ascent Pakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh

Baintha Kabata is the peak in back in the center, as viewed from the upper Choktoi Glacier, near base camp. The Turgeon-Haley South Ridge is the left skyline. Photo by Maxime Turgeon Maxime Turgeon and I traveled to the Choktoi Glacier in Aug...

| Keywords
| Published 2008 | Author Colin Haley


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Hypothermia, Weather, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Yamnuska

STRANDED, HYPOTHERMIA, WEATHER Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount YamnuskaRob, Loree, and Bob started up the scree slopes of Yamnuska under a clear blue sky on June 4, 1994, to climb the 5.8 route “Belfry” on Mount Yamnuska. By the time they reached ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Central Alaska Range, Mount Deborah, West Face

Mount Deborah, West Face. Dave Lucey and I flew into the Yanert Glacier April 28 and moved camp to the base of the first icefall. The key to the first icefall is getting an early start before the rocks on the left start falling. The second icefall...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Mustang Himal, Arniko Chuli, First Ascent and Survey

Arniko Chuli, first ascent and survey. In the summer of 2001, I began topographical research of the mountains west of Lo Manthang and Chharang, and made the first ascent of Arniko Chuli (6,034m). Arniko Chuli is at the northern edge of the range b...


Feature Article AAJ
The Swabian Andean Expedition, 1961

The Swabian Andean Expedition, 1961Richard HechtelTranslated by H. Adams CarterThe Cordillera Blanca has been declared by many the most beautiful mountain chain in the world. Its relatively easy accessibility makes it particularly attractive as a ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, K7 Reconnaissance

K7 Reconnaissance. Bob Barton and I made a reconnaissance of K7 (22,750 feet) during the first three weeks of September. We found that K7 would be difficult from the Chogolisa Glacier and could best be attempted from the Kondus side. By climbing a...


Feature Article AAJ
Ascents in Uganda

Ascents in UgandaGeorge Hurley, MarmotsRUWENZORI CLIMBSIn mid-December my wife Jean and I drove from where we teach at Namilyango College near Kampala, to the western Uganda town of Fort Portal. The next morning we got from the District Commission...


Feature Article AAJ
The First Ascent of Mount McKinley, 1913

The First Ascent of Mount McKinley, 1913A Verbatim Copy of the Diary of Harry P. KarstensPreface and Footnotes by Bradford WashburnThe original is reproduced here exactly as written, including misspellings and abbreviations. It was written in penc...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nangma Valley, Changi Tower, Attempt

Changi Tower, attempt. Previously unreported from 2005 is the ascent, but not to the summit, of a previously unclimbed line up the east pillar of one of the formations that makes up the Changi Tower. Jordi Comas from Barcelona, Oriol Ribas, and I ...