New Hampshire, Mt. Washington. On 14 March Craig M. Merrihue (31) and Daniel E. Doody (32) were climbing the fourth pitch of Pinnacle Gully in Huntington Ravine, a steep and difficult ice climb on water ice. Dan Doody was presumably in the lead wh...
AVALANCHEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount DeltaformOn March 31, 1984, two climbers (in their 30s) planned an early-season ascent of the difficult couloir route on the north face of Mount Deltaform. They skied to Moraine Lake, bivouacked, and began ...
FROSTBITE, AMSAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressIn the early morning of May 14, the team New River George contacted NPS personnel stationed at the 14,200-foot camp and alerted them about a climbing party called Team Homer Company. The former ha...
Bugaboos, Snowpatch Spire, Johnston-Kruk. My time in the Bugs was running slim when my friend Crosby Johnston showed up, training for an ACMG exam. Crosby is a totally undercover brother and a glissading champion; I was psyched to rope up with him...
DURING the recent war, the fliers of the Army Air Forces constantly performed routine combat and reconnaissance missions which forced them to face the most severe climatic extremes ever encountered by man.It was not unusual for our fliers, whether...
The West Face of MakaluFinding a solution to one of the Himalaya’s great problemsby Sergei EfimovTRANSLATED BY SERGEI NEKHAIOn March 15, nine mountaineers from Ekaterinburg, Russia—Salavat Habibulin (the team leader), Alexei Bolotov, Nikolai Zhili...
LETTER FROM HOMER A. ROGERS TO J. MONROE THORINGTONGreetings to a former member of the Mazamas from a former member of the American Alpine Club.Your letter to the Mazamas asking if one Homer A. Rogers is still alive was forwarded to me on the theo...
One dark, drunken February night, I cleared off the beer cans from Andrew Boyd’s kitchen table to show him a photo I’d seen of the south face of the Turret, in the Adamants. Andrew, a longtime Squamish hardman, was game. We shook on it, and in e...
Edith Cavell, North Face Solo. Robert Cordery-Cotter soloed a route on the north face of Edith Cavell at the end of September previously climbed by Colin Grissom and Neil Sanford in 1987. He climbed ice runnels and steep mixed terrain from the Ang...
Acopán Tepui, north pillar, Purgatory. Victory in Venezuela: Stefan Glowacz endures “Purgatory” in Jungle Paradise. Folding canoes, machetes, and climbing shoes were the keys to success for a team led by Stefan Glowacz to the Gran Sabana rain fore...
E. REX GIBSON1892-1957The many friends of Rex Gibson were shocked to learn of the fatal accident on Mount Howson in the Coast Range on August 18, 1957. Rex was born on November 7, 1892 at Hatfield Peveril in England and after his schooling was com...
Nun, Kun and Pinnacle Peak. A large number of expeditions now climb in this area. Among the successful parties on Nun (7135 meters, 23,410 feet) were French led by Gunther Steinmar on the west ridge on July 14, Japanese Tadikuyo Sakahara, Ryoichi ...
1951-20022003Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta46813099822426British Columbia293108621626Yukon Territory342675000New Brunswick000100Ontario37967000Quebe...
AVALANCHEUtah, Big Cottonwood CanyonOn February 17,1986, Brad Lindser (18) and Cameron Carpenter (18) were ski-boarding,as were several others, on an unimproved area near the Brighton, Guardsman Pass when they were caught in a fast moving avalanch...
Cerro Torre; Saint Exupery, Chiaro di Luna; and Aguja Rafael, Artebelleza. The weather in Patagonia this year dished out its usual tricks. Between December 15 and February 15 there were five climbable days—windows of good weather more than 16 hour...
New Climbs in the Cascades. For those who tire of sea-level recreation in the Pacific Northwest there are always the ice-crested Cascades to beckon the adventurous, and to those adventurers not fully satisfied with following established routes the...
Gurudongmar, Dongkya Range. Four members of an expedition led by G.C. Bhutia from the Sonam Gyatso Mountaineering Institute climbed Gurudongmar (6715 meters, 22,030 feet), which lies in northern Sikkim. The first ascent was made in 1936 by Eric Sh...
Storm and Snow in the SelkirksAndrew John Kauffman, 2ndTO speak with pleasure of two weeks of perpetual snow and rain, of attempts on peaks which, ordinarily simple, were so cluttered with spring snow that progress was practically impossible, of f...
The First Ascent of Mount McArthurDonald Monk and George WallersteinMount McArthur, 14,000 feet, is an impressive, double-summit peak just north of the Logan massif in the St. Elias range. Prior to our ascent, it was probably North America’s secon...
Two Polish Ascents of EverestMarek Brniak and Józef NykaThe Winter Ascent. Polish climbers were the first to climb to a height over 7000 meters in winter. On February 13, 1973 Tadeusz Piotrowski and Andrzej Zawada set foot on the summit of Noshaq ...