Nevado Juncal, Portillo district. This very high mountain, located on the Chilean-Argentinian border, some 15 miles south of the ski resort of Portillo, was visited by a party of two members of the mountain club of the Universidad de Chile at Sant...
Ketil, South Greenland. Our expedition to Ketil’s west face above Tasermiut Fjord was organized by two French guides, Michel Pellé and me, in collaboration with “Terres d’Aventure.” The team included Belgians Lut Vivijs and her husband Jan Van Hee...
Dhaulagiri Ascent and Tragedy. An expedition of five Russians and five Germans was officially led jointly by Vladimir Musienko and Erwin Beyerlein. They climbed the northeast ridge of Dhaulagiri. On April 30, Russians Alexei Guliayev, Valeri Kokha...
JOHN PERCY FARRAR1857-1929Captain John Percy Farrar, D.S.O., died in London on February 18, in his seventy-second year, a well-loved member of the Alpine Club, of which he had been a member for 46 years.He was born December 25, 1857, the son of Ch...
Northern Cascades: (1) Monte Cristo District. On the morning of 13 September 1947, a party of four young members of the Mountaineers Inc., of Seattle, left Monte Cristo by trail to climb the three Wilmon Spires. According to one of them, “This was...
Paragliders and Modern AlpinismJohn BouchardPARAGLIDERS OR PARAPENTES, as they are known in France, are the most radical development in alpine climbing since the ice-tool revolution in the seventies. Just as the new ice tools opened countless poss...
NecrologyBruce AndrewsDavid GunstoneLandon G. RockwellGeorge Van Brunt CochranRichard HechtelRyan SayersJohn R. Durrance, M.D.James KurtzGeorge R. SennerGuy EdwardsUse LetingerIra SpringAndrew Embick, M.D.William J. MosconiMark WagonerLinnea Erick...
Pamirs. A Moscow dispatch dated 17 December 1947 reports that two previously unnamed peaks in the Northwestern Pamirs have been climbed and named. One (6400 m.) now commemorates the Thirtieth Anniversary of the Soviet Revolution; the other (7000 m...
PIERRE BEGHIN1951-1992Another of the world’s foremost mountaineers has lost his life in the Himalaya. Pierre Beghin, the Frenchman who during the last decade broke the barriers of the impossible, was killed on October 11 on the south face of Annap...
During February 2011 Darryl Kralovic and I attempted a 5,321m peak in the Yulong Xueshan. This is the easternmost prominent peak in the northern half of the chain. After hiring a car and driver in Lijiang on the 11th, we traveled to the Jade...
Jannu. Our team of the Basque Mountain Federation consisted of Angel María Abrego, leader, Iñaki Aldaia, Xabier Muru, Patxi Senosiain, Josema Casimiro and me as doctor. We had two high-altitude Sherpas, Ang Kami and Ang Nima. We established Base C...
Buckskin Glacier, Various Activity. Ben Gilmore, Kevin Mahoney, Mike Wood, Scott DeCapio and I flew to the Buckskin Glacier on September 20. On September 24, the five us made the second ascent of Mooseskin Mountain (Peak 8,300') by skis. Sliding r...
RAPPEL ERROR—INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FALL ON ROCK, INEXPERIENCE IN OUTDOOR CLIMRING, WEATHERWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Symmetry SpireOn July 7, around 1600, John Hehr (48) fell to his death when his rappel anchor on the Southwest Ridge rou...
Henry S. Hall, Jr. Memorial Everest Relief ModelBradford WashburnIN MEMORY OF HENRY S. HALL, Jr., a new and unique exhibit is being made at the studio of Vigo Rauda in Seattle. It will be completed in mid summer of 1990 and will be first shown to ...
An introduction to the geography of the Eastern Nyanchen Tanglha (Nyainqentanglha) and a journey from the waters of the Yi’ong Tso to the primarily Bomi village of Bake along the lower Yi’ong Tsangpo. The “Alps of Tibet” east of the Himalaya sprea...
With the completion of the 1946 issue, the editorship passes into the competent hands of Robert H. Bates and David Allan Robertson. The growth of the Club and its many activities makes the editorial work a two-man job, and the new regime will secu...
Yosemite Valley, various activity. While it has not been on the free-climbing cutting edge for decades, Yosemite still ranks as the world’s premier big-wall arena. With new lines a rarity, this lately has meant hard free-climbing on the massive wa...
Himalchuli Attempt. An 11-man Japanese expedition from Gaku- shuin University, led by Hideo Nishigori, failed to climb Himalchuli by its south ridge, which would have been a new route. They placed five camps on the mountain. On May 4 they reached ...
FALL ON ROCK – RAPPELLED OFF END OF ROPESNorth Carolina, Grandfather Mountain, ShiprockOkie McCornis (28) and his partner spent July 17 climbing on Shiprock, a popular climbing area located on Grandfather Mountain’s East Side. After ascending B.O....
“Snake-Bit” in the Alaska RangeJack TackleTHE EAST FACE OF MOUNT BARRILLE is the size of Half Dome and yet it is dwarfed by its neighbor, Mount Dickey. The center of the face had only one route, that done by Austrians in 1988 (AAJ, 1989, pages 74-...