A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The Section has had another active year, hosting four evening meetings, a fall dinner meeting at Director Raffi Bedayn’s home, and our now traditional spring meeting in Yosemite. Broad membership participation in Clu...
Tilitso Attempt and Tragedy. Our international expedition under the leadership of Italian Francesco Santon was composed of eleven Italians, two Argentines, me from Czechoslovakia and three Sherpas. Our objective was the north buttress of Tilitso. ...
Hainabrakk East Tower, alpine-style link-up. Ko Imai and Hiroki Suzuki made the probable second alpine-style ascent of this ca 5,650m formation, linking the American route (Copp-Pennings, 2000) and the Slovak route (Kolarik-Rabatin, 2005) on July ...
AVALANCHE, SKIING ALONE—Wyoming, Grand Targhee Ski Resort. On March 20 Wayne Farrell (20) ski toured out of the patrolled area of Grand Targhee Ski Resort. While attempting the descent of a steep northwest facing hillside, Farrell was caught in a ...
FALL ON ROCK—LOWERING ERRORIdaho, City of Rocks National ReserveOn August 6, Emily Town (19) was leading an estimated 240 foot climb up Stripe Rock when she and her father Glen Town, who was lowering her down the rock, ran out of rope, according t...
Cirque of the Unclimbables, 1980. Much climbing continued to be done in 1980 in the Logan Mountains. The Lotus Flower Tower was climbed by mountaineers of various countries, but trash has been left in appalling quantities even on this climb. Bill ...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (5), Middle Teton Glacier— On August 13, Phillip Martin (21) and Charles E. Jones (21) were ascending the Duke Pinnacle Col. In the upper third of the couloir aslip occurred. Because of their weight difference (M...
RAPPEL FAILURECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyJohn Garten (24), John Nygaard (22), and Jeffrey Graves (22), all experienced 5.10 climbers, fell to their deaths on May 14 while descending the Nose on El Ca- pitan. The exact cause will never be known, bu...
FALL ON ICE, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, KananaskisOn February 17, 1980, Peter Haase (18) and Marvin Dean (17) were climbing the waterfalls at Heart Creek in the Kananaskis. Both of us had some experience at ice climbing, and I had taken several courses ...
Reports via London. The Alpine Journal for November 1947 reports an attempt on Rakaposhi by a party consisting of Messrs. C. H. Secord and H. W. Tilman and Herren Gyr and Kappeler, and the subsequent attainment by Messrs. Tilman and Shipton of the...
Sierra Nevada Section. Dave Riggs, Section Chair since 2006, transitioned to the AAC Board of Directors and deserves many thanks for his fine leadership these past years.The Section again hosted its popular annual “Climb-munity” gatherings, with t...
Manaslu. Our three-man expedition climbed Manaslu (8156 meters, 26,760 feet) by the normal route, the northeast face. We arrived at Base Camp at 15,100 feet on October 1. In comparison with my expedition to Manaslu three years ago, the route was s...
Austro-Argentine Atacama Expedition. Towering above the Puna de Atacama, already at an average of 13,000 feet, rise glacier-flecked volcanos to over 22,000 feet (Ojos del Salado, 22,591 feet). This naked salt and gravel desert, with its moonlike l...
Cayangate Group and Ausangate Attempt. A light expedition from Kraków climbed in the Cordillera Vilcanota, staying in a hotel in Ocongate. The approach from there to the foot of the mountains was made each time by truck and then with horses. Stayi...
SLIP ON SNOW, FALL INTO MOAT, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEUtah, Mount TimanogosOn July 7, 1982, Mark Gordon (14) was with a group of five companions (ages 11 to 22) when he slipped while descending a snow slope in a cliff area. He fell into ...
Mont Français, Anvers Island, Antarctic Peninsula. After a five-week passage through gales, fickle winds, heavy seas and finally a maze of sea ice in the mist, the steel ketch Northanger, specially designed as a mobile base in polar conditions, wa...
STRANDED, DEHYDRATION, SEVERE NOSE BLEED, CLIMBING ALONECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn June 25, 1984, Paul Truecki (19) was rescued from the west face of Leaning Tower. He suffered a severe nose bleed and subsequent heavy loss of blood that left hi...
Washington, Glacier Peak. On 30 July Mike Boyko (42) had been a member of a party that had made a successful ascent. On reaching the summit he asked permission of the leader to leave the party and to make a more rapid descent as he and another per...
FALL ON SNOW—LOSS OF CONTROL ON VOLUNTARY GLISSADECalifornia, Mount WhitneyOn April 10, Patrick Wang (27) and Martin Kozaczek (27) climbed the Mountaineer’s Route on Mount Whitney. On descent, around 14,000 feet, there is a steep traverse on a sno...
Mount Alberta’s North Face and Northeast Ridge. Mark Wilford’s remarkable solo climb of this route is described in a complete article earlier in this Journal.