The Sword and Cuerno Norte, Paine Mountains, ChileRichard D. Hoare, Cambridge University Mountaineering ClubON the evening of December 5, 1971 the South African Patagonian Expedition finally arrived at Pudeto, the end of the road, the last house b...

ARTHUR HINTON READ 1922-1961For those of us who have had the opportunity to know and to climb with Arthur Read, the tragic news of his death in an avalanche in Scotland brought shock little less than that his bereaved family suffered. Arthur becam...

Mt. Johnson, East Buttress, Attempt. Flying into the Ruth Glacier, it’s hard not to notice the sweeping expanse of rock that forms the east buttress of Mt. Johnson. A strong team composed of Jim McCarthy, Yvon Chouinard, Henry Barber and several o...

Zwischen Himmel und Hölle by Toni Hiebeier. Frankfurt a/M, Germany: Wilhelm Limpert Verlag, 1965. 261 pages, 32 photographs, one folding out photograph of the Civetta NW-face. DM 24.80.Between Heaven and Hell is the title of Toni Hiebeler’s latest...

The Wine Bottle on Mount DickeyAndreas Orgler, Österreichischer Alpenverein, AustriaLIKE TWO PLANT LICE that the wind has blasted, we crouch in the cold glacier wind below the east face of Mount Dickey in the Ruth Gorge south of Mount McKinley. We...

RICHARD MANNING LEONARD1908-1993Richard Manning Leonard, a member of the American Alpine Club since 1936, was elected to Honorary Membership in 1981. He was born in Elyria, Ohio. He was a former president of both the Sierra Club and the Save-the- ...

Mount Alberta. Mount Alberta is a desolate mountain. The Sunwapta River wards off tourists. Wading across the swift, freezing water at eight A.M. was not a pleasant way to begin the day. However, that discomfort was soon forgotten because of the i...

Direct North Wall of Sentinel Rock, Left Side. On the direct north wall of Sentinel Rock, 600 feet up, a distinctive line of ceilings cuts across the left central part of the face. In June Layton Kor and I climbed a new route which ascends in a di...

Teepe’s Pillar, Northeast Face. On August 24 Royal Robbins and Jane Taylor climbed this route which lies between the direct east-face route of Merriam and the north face route of Chouinard, passing by difficult direct- aid climbing the band of nea...

FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS and LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—NO ICE AXNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Tuckerman Ravine TrailOn December 30 there were two separate accidents involving sliding with crampons. In the first inci...

Everest Environmental ExpeditionBob McConnell and Liz NicholON THE NORTHERN FLANK OF EVEREST, popular trekking and climbing areas have been scoured clean by a multi-national expedition, the first targeted solely at cleaning up this side of the wor...

The Darran Mountains, summary. The alpine and rock climbing region of the Darran Mountains (Fiordland) continues to be the area of New Zealand that is generating the most climbing news and new routes of note. In late 2006 the New Zealand Alpine Cl...

Mazamas. The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, spent their sixty-eighth year in further expansion of their mountaineering activity. In the regular, non-outing schedule the Climbing Committee planned 82 parties of climbers on 36 different peaks. Seventy...

Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island. The Alpine Club of Canada held its second Baffin Island expedition from July 5 to July 30 under the leadership of Pat Baird. Again our objective was the ice-capped peaks of the Cumberland Peninsula just north o...

Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1984. In 1984, the climbing season in Denali National Park and Preserve began on two notes of sorrow. At age 59, Frances Randall died from cancer. She was known to many as the “Kahiltna Que...

FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HATCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn May 22, 1981, Jean Ruwitch (25) and Tom Kimbrough (42) were climbing the East Buttress route on middle Cathedral Rock (Y.D.S. IV, 5.10). This route has ten pitches and normally takes less than...

Devil’s ThumbGeorge H. LoweABLUR—too much, too fast. We sat in the sunshine packing for our climb. The past week had seen almost 3000 miles of driving, a major Rockies climb on Mount Deltaform, a ferry ride, the packing and sorting of gear, an air...

LIGHTNING-POOR POSITION, FAILURE TO TURN BACK, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Cathedral PeakOn June 25, my brother Andrew Betts (24) and I, Brad Betts (28), along with our friend Richard Meade (26), set out to...

Nanda Devi, attempt from the north. The aim of our expedition was to make the first ascent of Nanda Devi’s north face as a two-man team, climbing alpine-style, and to descend down the south face to a pre-placed camp. To be fully acclimatized for t...

Killimanjaro, First Descent, and New Route. On February 10, we left the Impala Hotel for the Umbway route, a drive of a few hours. The Umbway route is known to the local porters and guides as the Whiskey route because it is steeper and more techni...