FALL ON ROCK, FALLS ON RAPPEL, STRANDEDNew MexicoTen accidents were reported by the State Office of Search and Rescue. Four of them appear to have been actual climbing related mishaps, two of which were falls while on rappel.Several of the reports...

Syn Qing Feng Attempt. Karl Gerdes, Paul Tamm, Phil Peralta-Ramos, John Owen, Jim Bennett and I headed for China’s Qinghai Province in April. We rode trains for two days from Beijing to Xining, then trucks and jeeps for two days to Golmud, and jee...

Wind River RangeIn August last Mrs. Underhill and I made the following climbs in the Island Lake region of the Wind River Range, Wyoming Rockies. Camp was placed, first, about half a mile N. of Island Lake; then, at the head of the second Titcomb ...

Longs Peak, The Diamond, First One-Day Winter Ascent. On January 15, Craig Luebben and I climbed the Diamond on Longs Peak in 20:40 from the parking lot. We chose D7 as it is the easiest aid line on the wall. We summited at sunset and the descent ...

AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION AND TIMING, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 8, 1993, Bertha Ramirez (41) departed with the “Choolian” expedition headed for the 8,000 foot camp on the Kahiltna Glacier. The three member team was attempting the We...

Pumori, ascent, attempt, and tragedy. There were two events during the autumn on 7161m Pumori that were noteworthy for entirely different reasons. The good news was the successful ascent by the first Iranian women mountaineers to come on any exped...

Karakoram Ski Traverse. The first Karakoram ski traverse was made by Galen Rowell and his team in 1980. Starting from Khapalu, they reached the Siachen Glacier via the Bilafond Pass. From there, they traversed the Baltoro, Biafo and Hispar Glacier...

FALLING ICE, POOR POSITIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Weeping WallOn December 29, two ice climbers were on the second pitch of the left side of the Weeping Wall (grade IV) when the leader dislodged a chunk of ice onto his belayer. The victim, a 19-y...

Amotsang reconnaissance and first ascents of Thansunjiti (6,084m) and Jomson (6,335m). One of the expeditions on newly opened mountains was unsuccessful in its bids to climb this previously unattempted summit. A French team under the leadership of...

Cosmic Rays on McKinley. Results of scientific experiments carried out in the course of “Operation White Tower” are described in The Physical Review for 15 June 1948.* The title of the article is “Cosmic-Ray Investigations on Mt. McKinley”; and th...

Colorado Climbing Notes, 1937The Colorado mountaineering season of 1937 started with the usual New Year’s Day trip up Pikes Peak. This is the regular annual trip of the Ad-Am-An Club of Colorado Springs, who each year climb Pikes and initiate one ...

Ama Dablam in the Post-Monsoon. A total of 50 men and women summited Ama Dablam this season. Two expeditions each put 11 of their members on the top, bringing to 388 the grand total of foreigners to the summit of this 6812-meter (22,349-foot) peak...

Peak 5,200m (Golden Sentinel). This small peak near Gulmotonga (Kargil) was summited on August 20 by an expedition led by Italian Mourizio Orsi. They followed the east face and north ridge. They propose naming the peak Golden Sentinel.Harish Kapad...

Altar, Complete Traverse. One of the main enterprises yet to be accomplished in this country was the complete traverse (“la travesía integral”) of all the summits of Altar. There were nine peaks to be ascended and descended, with varying degrees o...

Colorado, Long’s Peak. On August 4 with a clear and sunny sky, Ben Crouse, Gib Gilbert, and Ted Gutmann left Chasm Lake at 8 A.M. to climb the East Face of Long’s Peak by the Alexander’s Chimney route and on to the summit. Return to Chasm Lake was...

P 6730 and Nau Lekh. Our expedition went in seven days from Luklha via the Hinku valley to the Hunku valley. Setting out from 16,400 feet in the Hunku on October 21, Armin Rauter, Karl Brandstätter, Peter Breitegger, Sepp Egarter, Volker Klammer, ...

Confusion Between Ohmi Kangri and Nupchu. In 1949 a Swiss expedition made an attempt on a peak, which they called Nupchu. It is obvious that this is the same peak which is now called Ohmi Kangri. This lies at 27° 53' 52" N. and 87° 57' 51" E. In 1...

Argentine Patagonia, Various Activity. As we had the preceding season, we arrived at Chaltén at the beginning of October with a head full of ideas. But “el tiempo” did not give us the same luck. Nevertheless, we had a very good time in this beauti...

Lhotse Attempt. Frenchmen Eric Escoffier and Eric Beilin and Swiss Stéphane Schaffter acclimatized on Island Peak and Lhotse Shar before heading on April 16 for their objective, the south face of Lhotse. The good weather didn’t come. Every afterno...

Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak. On 14 August Chris Chidsey (14) and his father, Dr. Charles Chidsey, left their camp near the Chasm Lake Shelter Cabin for an ascent of the East Face of Longs Peak via the Alexander Chimney and U...