Bremen Hindu Kush Expedition. Five Germans from Bremen made a modest expedition into the Hindu Kush. They drove from Germany to 50 miles beyond Kabul, where they organized a pack train to take them 100 miles farther. They made the first ascent of ...
Unnamed (10,283 ft.). N. buttress of Cataract Pass. Guidebook, page 162. 1940 first ascent by Miss L. Gest, Miss P. Prescott, C. Häsler. From motor highway 6.3 miles S. of 1938 A. C. C. campsite. Cross Nigel Creek on logs at old road camp. Ascend ...
Swiss Expedition to West Greenland, 1968. A six-member Swiss expedition led by André Grisel visited the region north of Sukkertoppen, above Sermilinguaq Fjord and on Homborgerland or Sermersut Island. They made various first ascents. A full accoun...
Auyuittuq National Park Report for 1988. Auyuittuq National Park Reserve experienced another busy season this year. Eleven mountaineering groups totalling 30 people from five countries visited the park for climbing and skiing activities. Some moun...
California, San Bernardino Range, Mt. San Gorgonio. On 23 December, Michael Daugherty (26), Charles Heifer (21), and Joseph Hara (50) were descending the route of ascent and the accident occurred about 500 feet below the summit on the North side. ...
Kunyang Chhish North. A Japanese expedition from Hokkaido University was led by Kohei Echizenya climbed the north ridge of Kunyang Chhish (23,321 feet) to make the first ascent. Base Camp was placed on the Kunyang Glacier at 14,300 feet on June 17...
K2 Women’s Expedition Tragedy. The expedition organized by Wanda Rutkiewicz-Scharfetter was further composed of Alicja Bednarz, Frenchwoman Christine de Colombel, Anna Czerwinska, Halina Krüger-Syro-komska, Aniela Lukaszewska, Dr. Jolanta Maciuch,...
Mount Logan Attempt. John Marshall, Dr. Gene Mason, Jack Walston, Steve Trafton, Dr. Wayne Smith, Dr. Gordon Doty, Lute Jerstad and Jay Ullin and I unsuccessfully attempted to climb Mount Logan by the standard route. We were delayed from June 23 u...
Crescent Spire. Traverse from Bugaboo-Crescent Col August 22nd, 1938. R. Brinton, H. Fuller, H. Gates.
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, WEATHER British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount RobsonOn July 24, 1987, a party of three attempted to climb and descend the Wishbone Arete in one day. They were attempting a lightweight climb, carrying no stove or ...
Lhotse Shar Attempt. A five-person Spanish team attempted Lhotse Shar by its southeast ridge, the normal route. They established four camps above Base Camp. Four climbers, including leader Antoni Sors and the only woman, Maria Merced Macía, reache...
A.A.C., Oregon Section. The testing of ice screws and pitons on Mount Hood under Jack Baldwin’s supervision has continued. The results will be published in the Club’s 1967 accident report.Fred Ayers and Bob Pierce spent most of the summer climbing...
Kangchungtse or Makalu II. A four-man Japanese group from Denki-Tsushin University led by Tadashige Nishiyama from Base Camp on the Barun Glacier reconnoitered Kangchungtse (25,066 feet), which was first climbed by French in 1954. They established...
Various ascents. On an expedition I led to the Cordillera Oriental with Tim Riley, we did several climbs. Our first climb, on August 9, was of a nameless ca. 5,200m peak that extends from the long ridge west-southwest of Nevado Huaguruncho. We cli...
otis McAllister1889-1980Otis McAllister, a member of the American Alpine Club since 1943 and an honorary member since 1977, died on November 16, 1980 at his home in Mexico City. He was 91 years old. He graduated from Harvard in 1907. After moving ...
Dhaulagiri, South Face, New Route. From October 25-November 3, Slovenian Tomaž Humar soloed The Mobitel Route (VI 5.10d AO M7+, ca. 4000m) on the south face of Dhaulagiri (8167m). A full account of his ascent appears earlier in this journal.
Trisul Ascent and Tragedy. The members of our expedition were Tilo Dittrich, Roland Wankerl, Michael Hawlitschek, Dirck Naumann, my wife Martina and me. With 28 porters, two high-altitude porters, a liaison officer, we took five days from the road...
Udren Zorn and Shakhaur. The expedition of the Biella section of the Club Alpino Italiano climbed these two peaks, neither a first ascent; they rise on the Pakistani-Afghan frontier above the Wakhan corridor. After ascending the Udren Gol, they se...
Livingston Island, South Shetland Islands, second ascent of Mt. Friesland and New Altitude. Livingston Island is around 60km long and much of it is gentle terrain. However, at the eastern end rises an impressive range of snowy peaks that I had fir...
Jirishanca from the Southeast, Cordillera Huayhuash. Our Tokyo Tsuyukusa Tokokai Expedition was composed of Yoshikazu Okada, Shiro Nakatsuka, Yoshio Sato, Shinichi Yoshiga and me as leader. We left Chiquián with 30 donkeys, 7 arrieros and 3 porter...