CORNICE COLLAPSEYukon Territory, St. Elias Range, Mt. LoganMatthew Maytag, Dale Sturtz, Robert Donahoe, John Woodland, Andrew Campbell, and David Conley were setting up Camp V on the Warbler Ridge of Mt. Logan at 2130 hours on 7 July 1978. The cor...
Annapurna South, New Route in Winter. A five-member Russian team led by Vladimir Bachkirov succeeded on a new route on Annapurna South (7219 meters) in December. Climbing with no Sherpas, no fixed camps, no fixed ropes, and no artificial oxygen, B...
Rasac, East Face. A light Chilean expedition composed of G. Cas- sasa, A. Izquierdo, M. Riesco and E. Saavedra, placed a base camp near Jahuacocha lake and on July 18, attempted the S.W. ridge of Yerupajá Sur, reaching almost 20,000 ft., and were ...
Champs Elysees Glacier, Various Ascents. It was reported that in late July, on the Champs Elysees Glacier, a five-member British all-women’s group (Lisa Holliday, Pippa Manson, Lizzy Popham, Catrin Thomas and Clare Waddington) made an extended tou...
The Alpine Club of Canada. The 1964 Ski Camp was held at Maligne Lake in Jasper National Park and “Sunshine and Powder,” enchanting words to a skier, describe a very fine holiday for those who attended. Snow conditions were variable, but in genera...
Middle Teton, Northwest Ice Couloir. This couloir lies to the west of the usual north ridge route and has been partially climbed in the past, but never so completely nor so early as the ascent on June 16 by Pete Lev and Jim Greig. This party trave...
Northern Selkirks. If old timers thought that airdrops were a symbol of modern decadence, let them harken now to the advent of the helicopter. For some time now, a whirlybird has been used by the Canadian Geological Survey in the Interior Ranges, ...
Interim Report on Patagonian Climbing in the 1982-3 Climbing Season. My husband Gino Buscaini and I were in Patagonia from the middle of November to the middle of January 1983. We attempted Fitz Roy three times, once by the Chouinard route and twi...
Stay Puft Buttress. The Stay Puft Buttress (1,700' V 5.10 A1) was established by Josh Borof and Paul Emrick on June 19, in scorching hot weather. The route starts on top of the huge boulder about 400 feet from the river in the S.F.O.B. Gully and a...
Aconcagua, West Buttress. In early January Dr. Gene Mason, Ralph Mackey and Dr. Richard Hill made a new route on the west buttress of Aconcagua (22,835 feet). The ascent took them seven days from the Plaza de Mulas. The route led up two chutes. Th...
Quarry Peak, New Route. In September, Fred Beckey and I climbed a route on the right side of the wide east face of this peak. The climb follows wide crack systems through an area of orange rock. (III, 5.8.)Gary Slate, D.L.F.A. Cimbers
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, PARTY SEPARATEDWashington, Mount RainierOn the morning of July 17, 1981, Peter Brookes (26) and Robert Schreiber (29) were climbing Liberty Ridge on Mount Rainier. They were climbing unroped and started their climb ...
OVERDUE, WEATHER, EXHAUSTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn October 21, RMNP dispatch received a missing/overdue climbing party report concerning John McBroom (47) and Terrance Ford (42) on Kiener’s Route ...
Spantik, Southeast Ridge. Our expedition, consisting of Yoshiharu Murata, leader, M. Kamei, H. Shibata, Y. Shiro, M. Sakai and me, established Base Camp at the junction (14,350 feet) of the Chogolungma Glacier and its Basin Glacier on July 11. We ...
Jannu, North Face, Attempt. In the fall, our team went to attempt the north face of Jannu (7710m) in Nepal. We fixed ropes to 6000 meters but were turned back by weather and a dwindling team effort. The face remains unclimbed on the right side. It...
Mount Robson. Ted Davis and I did what we believe is a first ascent variation of the Emperor Ridge by climbing the west face directly right of the Emperor and then continuing up the Emperor Ridge above the face to the summit, which we reached on J...
Crystal Crag, North Arête. On a blustery day in late June Rick Taylor and I climbed this beautiful arete. We reached the base after a short hike from Crystal Lake. The route begins in a prominent dihedral on the prow of the arête. The first pitch ...
Wildcat Buttress. Six miles northwest of Tuolumne Meadows is Glen Aulin, a two-mile-long parkland through which the Tuolumne River flows. Unlike most other areas on the western slope of the Sierra, Glen Aulin has groves of aspen, scattered juniper...
Mt. Grosvenor, South Face, and Once Were Warriors. Eamonn Walsh (Canmore, Alberta) and I spent two weeks in the Great Gorge of the Ruth Glacier in early spring. On March 31 we ascended the broad snow gully between Mt. Church and Mt. Grosvenor, the...
FALL ON ROCKNew York, ShawangunksA man (22) was leading the climb, Harvard (5.2), when he fell on the first pitch, about five meters up. He hit the ground, cutting his head. (Source: Brad Snyder)AnalysisOn the start of easy climbs, even for beginn...