GEORGE W. MARTIN 1901-1970It was twenty years ago when I met George Martin. By that time, I had acquired some of the deep love for the mountains that we all know but knew few of the rules governing travel there. This inadequacy was to be corrected...
Nalumasortoq, south southwest face of Right Pillar, first all free ascent of Non C’e Due Senza Tre, and first ascent of a new route on Half Dome. For 30 days Micah Dash and I lived out of a cave located several miles from the Tasermiut Fjord in so...
Expédition au Gaurisankar etMission Scientifique au NepalRAYMOND LAMBERTTranslated from the French by Joan E. Fisher,Alpine Club of CanadaAfter I had taken part in two Swiss expeditions to Mt. Everest in 1952, my one desire was to return again to ...
On April 16 Mikhail Mikhailov and I arrived at Constable Pynt in poor weather after a flight from Reykjavik. The same day we left by snowmobile for Avgo, a summer fishing lodge. It took eight cold hours through the twilight. After a night sleeping...
A Most Hostile Mountain: Re-creating the Duke of Abruzzi’s Historic Expedition on Alaska’s Mount St. Elias. Jonathan Waterman. Henry Holt and Company: New York, 1997. 30 photos, two maps. 253 pages. $25.00.Being in the party that achieved the firs...
Canada: At the time of publication, narratives and data from Canada were not available. The Alpine Club of Canada has recently secured a new editor for the Canadian content and a resumed regular contribution to Accidents in North American Mountain...
Canadian Rockies: Mt. Baker and Mt. Thompson. Mt. Baker, new route by N. ridge, 1948: D. Bidwell, R. Clapp, L. M. Erskine, Jr., A. Griscom, P. Jackson. From A.C.C. camp at Peyto Lake across col between Mt. Baker and Trapper Peak to N. ridge of Mt....
Cho Oyu. Cowboys on Cho Oyu consisted of Americans Michael Bacon, Alan Jennings, Charlie Schertz, Ed Yoshida and me as leader, Michael Clarke, who is an Englishman who has acquired American citizenship, British David Hambly and Canadian David McCl...
Glacier Studies during the International Geophysical Year, 1957-58RICHARD C. HUBLEYThe International Geophysical Year (IGY), 1957-58, has a special significance to glaciologists in that it marks the initiation of glaciology as a major, important b...
Two MemorandaA Brief History of Mount Everest’s Altitude and The Configuration of the Summit of Mount EverestBradford WashburnGEORGE EVEREST WAS APPOINTED SUPERINTENDENT of the Great Survey of India in 1823. He became Surveyor General in 1830. He ...
Sawtooth Peak, North Face. Because the nearly vertical profile of Sawtooth’s north face is very noticeable from the road approaching the Kaweah, then again nearing Mineral King, it seemed quixotic that climbers had not probed its defenses. On Sept...
A New Insulation Technique. The difficulty of insulating the body against cold by use of woollen or down garments has always been that, as the insulating medium got damp either from body moisture or from outside moisture, its insulating efficiency...
Introduction to Rock and Mountain Climbing by Ruth and John Mendenhall; illustrated by Vivian Mendenhall. Harrisburg, Pa.: Stackpole Books, 1969, 192 pages. $5.95.This straightforward book is full of information and is concisely written and well o...
AVALANCHEWashington, Mount Rainier, Liberty RidgeLuke Casady and Ansel Vizcaya (both 29) departed White River Campground on Friday June 11 for a planned ascent of Liberty Ridge. The exact details of the subsequent 48 hours may never be known, but ...
RICHARD M. EMERSON1925-1982Dick Emerson and I met almost forty years ago and shared the U.S. Mountain Trooper’s war. Thirteen years his senior, I am unprepared to write the inclusive dates after his name and to face his leaving before I did. I had...
GeographicalDistricts1951-86NumberofAccidents DeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumberofAccidents1987DeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta219664816016British Columbia11987841314546Yukon Territory222361122Ontario19538214Quebec133322111East Arctic6218000W...
Saipal. A seven-man Austrian expedition, under the leadership of Dr. Rudolf Jonas, left Tanakpur for Northwestern Nepal in April, 1954. Their route lay through Chainpur, where they were received by the Maharaja of Bajang, who later visited them at...
On June 5, 13 Americans, forming the second part of an exchange between the AAC and the Alpine Club of Iran (ACI), arrived in Tehran. The first part of the exchange took place in the Tetons during July 2010.On our first afternoon we drove through ...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, OFF ROUTE,EXCEEDING ABILITIES Washington, Levenworth, Castle RockAs part of the 1989 Seattle Mountaineers Intermediate Climbing Course Rock II field trip, six climbers went to Castle Rock in Tumwater Canyon nea...
ALFRED LOWRY CASTLE 1884-1972Alfred Castle was born in Honolulu on March 18, 1884, went to Hotchkiss School and received his LL.B. from Harvard in 1906. He began the practice of law in his father’s firm, Castle and Withington, and later with Rober...