Carstensz Pyramid, 1993. Our expedition consisted of 6 French climbers, 3 Belgians, 2 Spaniards and an Englishman. It took us six days and seven flights to reach our jumping-off place for the seven-day trek to the mountain. Twelve climbed to the s...

Centenary of Professor Fay. March 10th, 1946, marks the centenary of the birth of Charles E. Fay, first president of the American Alpine Club, whose biographical sketch will be found in this issue. It would be most appropriate if some of our membe...

Blackfriar, Ironman East Peak and the Stickle, Adamant Group, Selkirks. In August Peter Cole and I were flown by helicopter to the Silvertip Glacier below Mount Blackfriar. We spent two weeks in the Adamant group, moving camp from the Silvertip to...

Sierra NevadaWest Fuller Butte, The Twisted Bit. Doniel Drazin and Brandon Thau completed an eight pitch route (IV 5.12b) on the blank 1,000' face of West Fuller Butte on November 9, 2001. Aside from one splitter-crack pitch, the route is mainly c...

FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS, CLIMBING UNROPEDWyoming, TetonsOn August 9, 1980, about 3:30 p.m., Scott Taylor (22), Andy Fisher (27) and Laura Mann had just climbed Storm Point and were attempting Ice Point. Taylor was in the lead, the part...

TABLE II Type of OperationStateNumber of SearchesNumber of RescuesNumber of RecoveriesArizona682California31459Colorado29144Montana210Oregon550Washington24170Wyoming030TOTAL1079324

Gargoyle, Electric View; Pt. 6,000’, Phanerotime. In July, Jarle Kalland, Mads Lund, Steinar Holden, and I planned to go to the KichatnaMountains, but snow conditions on the glaciers were too bad for landing. That’s why we decided to go to Ruth Go...

STRANDED, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn August 20, 1982, Al Rosemann (25) and Dave Briggs (25) were attempting to rappel the 5.8 pitch on Bishop’s Terrace (50 meters), when they became stranded because one of them reached the end of hi...

FALL ON ICE—ICE BROKE OFF, MISJUDGED CONDITIONSNew Hampshire, Frankenstein Cliffs, Cave RouteI reached the top of the headwall on the Cave Route—approximately 50 feet high. The poor quality of the ice precluded me from placing more than one screw ...

Palcaraju and Santa Cruz. Between June 21 and July 21, fourteen Slovene climbers were active in the Cordillera Blanca. Aside from ascents on Artesonraju, Alpamayo and Huascarán, they made three new routes. On June 30, Emil Tratnik made the first t...

Mt. Dione, Cheech and Chong. On July 21 Jamie Chong and I summited a new route on Mt. Dione in the Tantalus Range. They dubbed it Cheech and Chong (700m, 16 pitches, V 5.10d). The line ascends the central buttress of the west face. Chong and I wer...

Mount Orville Attempt and Ascents of P 8900 and P 7209. On June 14, Sam Grubenhof and I were flown by Mike Ivers from Yakutat to 4000 feet on the North Crillon Glacier. We did a double carry the next day and set up Base Camp at 5300 feet. On the 1...

Manaslu, Northeast Ridge in Winter. As both Yasuhira Saito and I were fatigued when we came back from Everest, we spent several days of rest in Kathmandu. Then, we were carried by helicopter to Sama on December 2. On December 5 we moved to 4800 me...

Tasermiut Fjord, Ketil Pyramid, new route. I arrived in the area at the end of July, hoping to be the first climber to solo a new big wall route. I was surprised to find eight teams with a total of 30 climbers at Base Camp, though by the start of ...

Gorur Dome, First Ascent. Prasanta Roy led an expedition that made the first ascent of an unnamed peak (known locally as Gorur Dome, 6268m) in May and June. The summit was reached on June 9 after about eight to nine hours of climbing from CII by A...

Dhaulagiri South Face Solo Attempt. The unclimbed south face of Dhaulagiri remains unclimbed. Hiroshi Aota made his Base Camp and then Advance Base at the bottom of the glacier at 4300 meters. He then did some acclimatization climbing on P 6620. E...

Palomani Sur, first ascent, and various new terrain. Climbing on equal terms with Bolivian guide Pedro Quispe, Charlie Netherton attempted an integral traverse of the Palomani Tranca group in the northern Apolobamba. They approached this rarely vi...

Yellow Wall, Attempt, and Kidnapping by Terrorists. In July, Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden, John Dickey, and Jason “Singer” Smith traveled to the Karavshin region of the Pamir-Alai with the goal of establishing free routes in the area. On August 11,...

Witch Tower, The Needles, West Face. The first route on the impressive west face was done November 17, 1974 by Dave Black, Steve Eddy, and me; the beginning is from a short pillar over 100 yards south of the divide notch. The climb is superb, and ...

Tyree, attempted repeat of 1967 route. Walter Laserer, Chris Stangl, and I attempted the northwest ridge of Tyree (4,582 m). This is the unrepeated route of the 1967 first ascent, when Barry Corbet and John Evans reached the summit from a camp pla...