Feature Article AAJ
The Wonderful Story of Abe Lincoln

The Wonderful Story of Abe LincolnClaude Ewing Rusk1“THE Cascadians are fools,” said Abe Lincoln. “I know they are fools—I’ve been there. I know!” And this because the Cascadians were planning a trip to the E. side of Mt. Adams to ramble over the ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table I

Number ofAccidentsReportedTotalPersonsInvolvedInjuredKilledUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN19511522113195231351713195324271212195431413181955343928619564672541319574553281819583239231119594225623101921960474641237819419614996114451014419627119016401911963...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Kumaon and Garhwal, Bauljuri

Nandabhannar, Nandakhani, Shallang Dhura. There has been considerable interest in a pass in Kumaon first crossed in 1926 by Hugh Ruttledge’s porters. An Indian team explored its existence in 1988. This year a team from Bombay led by Divyesh Muni r...


Accident Reports ANAM
Ice Collapsed, Fall on Ice, Climbing Alone and Unroped, North Carolina, Blue Ridge Parkway, Doughton Park

ICE COLLAPSED, FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDNorth Carolina, Blue Ridge Parkway, Doughton ParkThe body of Ralph Fickle (59), an experienced climber and guide, was found on March 4 about 200 feet below the Blue Ridge Parkway, a half- mile ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Boulder Climbs North

Boulder Climbs North. Richard Rossiter. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1988. 320 pages, black-and-white photographs, route diagrams, map. $19.95 (paper).Has Boulder lost its lycra-clad mind? Already the main trailheads into the once pristine foothills ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Cat's Ears Spire, Second Ascent, and Devil's Thumb, Attempt

Cat’s Ears Spire, Second Ascent, And Devil's Thumb, Attempt. From May 12 to June 5, Jeff Selvig, Simon Elias and I lived on the standard southeast Base Camp of Devil’s Thumb and made the second ascent of Cat’s Ears Spire and attempted the south pi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Russia, Caucasus, Mountaineering Expeditions in the Soviet Union During 1933, Pamirs

Pamirs. Beginning with the German-Russian Expedition of 1928 there have been to date five expeditions to the Pamirs. In 1928 the German alpinists of the expedition climbed the peak Merzbacher had named Alt. Kaufmann (7,130 m.), believing it to be ...


Feature Article AAJ
The North Face of Jannu “It was like war, with teammates returning from the route as if from a battle. Jannu was showing its character.”

Just two days after arriving at Jannu Base Camp on April 5, Alex Bolotov, Sergey Borisov, and Gennady Kirievsky began to work the bottom part of our route. We would use a trio of three-man parties, and our leader, Alexander Odintsov, planned to jo...

| Published 2004 | Author Alexander Ruchkin


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Amotsang (6,393m) and Pokharkan (6,372m), Attempts Asia, Nepal, Damodar Himal

Chris Warner and I planned to attempt Amotsang during August and September. In 2003 a French expedition led by Paulo Grobel reconnoitered the south and west sides, finding no feasible route. Moving to the north flank, they decided the best approac...

| Published N/A | Author Damien Gildea


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Beacon Rock, Near Columbia River

Washington, Beacon Rock, near Columbia River—On Wednesday, February 6, at about noon, Robert J. Boyle (24) decided to try a one-man descent of the N.W. face of 840 foot Beacon Rock. Upon arriving at the base of the rock he gathered his gear, which...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Kashgar Range, Complete Crossing of the Southern Section of the Chinese Pamir and First Ascents of Pts 5430m and 5975m

Complete crossing of the southern section of the Chinese Pamir and first ascents of Pts 5,430m and 5,975m. Andrei Lebedev (leader), Otto Chkhetiani (assistant leader), Mikhail Babich (Saint Petersburg), Tatiana Belyaeva (Saint Petersburg), Yura Ma...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall Into Moat, Climbing Unroped, Poor Position, Inexperience, Quebec, Saint Raymond de Portneuf, Delaney Falls

FALL INTO MOAT, CLIMBING UNROPED, POOR POSITION, INEXPERIENCEQuébec, Saint Raymond de Portneuf, Delaney FallsOn January 13, E.F. and E.L. had just finished climbing La Transparente, a 150m waterfall climb on Delaney Falls near St. Raymond de Portn...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak, Chasm View Wall

Longs Peak, Chasm View Wall. On Chasm View Wall, in between Red Wall and Directissima, Middle Ground (5.11) was established by Chip Chase et al in 1996.Kath Pyke, United Kingdom


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
India, Himachal Pradesh, Sikkim, Western Sikkim, Lama Lamani North, First Ascent, Northwest Flank and West Ridge; Tinchen Kang, Third Ascent

Western Sikkim, Lama Lamani North, first ascent, northwest flank and west ridge; Tinchen Kang, third ascent. In a 20-day round trip from Gangtok, between March 15 and April 3, we made three excursions on peaks in the Thangsing Valley of western Si...


Feature Article AAJ
Pachinko on Denali The Giri-Giri Boys Make the Big One Even Bigger

Pachinko is a popular Japanese game with metal balls that bounce around inside a machine and then disappear. It is like a combination of pinball and slot machines. The climbing version consists of climbing more than one route in a single push. We ...

| Published 2008 | Author Katsutaka Yokoyama


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, P 6504 (Rajiv)

P 6504 (Rajiv). A 23-member team, including 15 climbers from the Rajiv Gandhi Memorial Athanium Club of Madras, was led by R. Gopi and K. Pradip. This virgin peak, which lies southeast of Bhagirathi II, was climbed in three batches in mid-June. Wi...


Accident Reports AAJ
Sierra Nevada: (3) Twin Peaks (8294 ft.), above Lake Tahoe, California

Sierra Nevada: (3) Twin Peaks (8924 ft.), above Lake Tahoe, California. On 14 August 1947 Emmett Pettit, an easterner 23 years old, previously acquainted with a few climbs in the Canadian Rockies, was killed by a fall from a rock face. He was one ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Remote Southern Areas, Indian Creek, Various Activity

Indian Creek, Various Activity. In Indian Creek, there is ever more development, little of which gets reported. Previously unreported is Sports Page (5.10), climbed by Steve DeFino and Jonathan McCue. The route is approximately 200 feet down the N...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Makalu, Winter Attempt Nepal

Alan Deakin, David Heap, Bill Ryan, Eric Penman, my wife Linda and I as leader arrived at our Makalu Base Camp at 14,500 feet on November 30. We walked in from Tumlingtar with 26 porters in 12 days with excellent weather, although snow and ice did...

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| Published 1981 | Author Ron Rutland


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Risum, Ascent of East Ridge

Risum, ascent of east ridge. On September 20 Isomi Okanda (61) of Japan and a porter made an ascent of the east ridge of 7,050m Risum (Fuqu in Chinese). Okanda followed the route of the first ascent, which was made on May 10, 1997, by Kazuyoshi Ko...