Cho Oyu Attempt. Swiss Michel Vogler, Norbert Duvoisin and John Kimber failed to climb Cho Oyu from Nepal up the normal route which crosses into Tibet. Base Camp at 5000 meters and a depot camp were made on April 7 and 14. Camp I was placed on the...
FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK–CLIMBER STANDING ON LARGE ROCK WHEN IT CAME LOOSE, CLIMBING UNROPEDColorado, Little Bear, Northwest FaceOn July 2 about 10:00 a.m., an experienced climber died from a fall taken from the upper headwall (just below the Bl...
Puscanturpa Norte, various activity. July saw multiple teams camped below Puscanturpa Norte (5,652m), hoping to complete routes on the columned rock buttress of the northwest face. British climbers Mark Pretty, Nic Sellars, and Sam Whittaker first...
New Mexico, Shiprock. On 26 March two climbing parties started up Shiprock in northwestern New Mexico. The first party was composed of Jim Smith (46) and Bill Bull (40) of Boulder, Colorado, and George Andrews (52) of Menlo Park, California. They ...
On September 15 Robert Rauch picked me up in La Paz at 4 a.m. The first crux was driving to the trailhead for Serkhe Khollu in Robert’s vehicle. The approach followed llama paths from 4,600m to 5,000m over gentle but steadily rising terrain, towar...
AMERICAN ROCKIES—NOTES, 1929By J. L. J. HartThe fifth recorded ascent of Kit Carson Peak, in the Crestone group, was made in September, 1929, by a small party of members of the Colorado Mountain Club. The route was up the southeast face. The first...
Cordillera de la Viuda, 1989. Five members of our club in twelve days traversed over several passes, starting from the railroad station of Chicla and heading northwest towards the town of Canta. Along the way they made several first ascents: Cerro...
The Alpine Club of Canada. For the Alpine Club of Canada, the year saw several major events. A re-enactment of the first ascent of Mount Lefroy and the commemoration of the Abbot Pass Hut took place August 2. A party composed of representatives of...
First Ascents in the Cashmere CragsRalph S. WidrigGOOD granite is probably the best of rocks to climb on. The State of Washington is blessed with several granitic batholiths, of which one of the finest, from a rock climber’s point of view, is to b...
Patagonia summary. [Note: this summary supplements the individual route reports below— Ed.] Unlike the past few years, this season did not offer an extended good weather period in late January and February, which climbers had come to expect and re...
On May 24, four members of an expedition were flown on to the Ruth Glacier with the intent to climb several surrounding snow and ice routes. Weather conditions in the area (4,500 feet) were unseasonably warm, with nighttime temperatures consist...
Gasherbrum II, a Third 8000er by a Woman. On July 13, after 11 days of trekking from Dassu, Lut Vivijs, Ingrid Baeyens, Raf Snoeck and I arrived at Base Camp at 5150 meters. A fortnight of bad weather then confined activities. The two ladies and I...
Care Bear Traverse (Guillaumet, Mermoz, and Fitz Roy); Guillaumet, The Lost Men; Fitz Roy, Hoser Chimney. Dana “Mad Dog” Drummond and I hit the soon-to-be-paved streets of Chalten on January 16, 2008. With a promising forecast, we quickly repacked...
Biacherahi Central Tower, south face, first ascent. Voytek Kurtyka (Poland), Taeko Yamanoi, and I (Japan) visited the Choktoi Glacier. Voytek and I planned to try the north face of Latok I but the weather was so bad, we couldn’t do it. Instead, th...
Uomini e montagne del Sahara, by Mario Fantin. Bologna: Tamari Editori, 1970. 522 pages, 151 maps and sketch maps, 267 plates of black and white.The mountain ranges of the Sahara desert are more complex and more interesting than most mountaineers ...
Peak 4,863m, north ridge; unnamed Trezubet summit, north ridge; Pik 5,046m, south ridge; Pik ca 4,800m, Sarah’s Daddy; Kyzyl Asker, north summit (ca 5,500m), Gladwin-Stewart Ridge. Buying supplies should not be the most dangerous part of an expedi...
American Alpine Club Research Fund, 1946Joel E. Fisher, Weldon F. Heald and Maynard M. MillerThe American Alpine Club Research Fund was established in 1945 to promote scientific, literary, educational or historical research and publication related...
Everest Survey. Vernon Tejas and Skip Horner accompanied Louis Bowen to the summit of Everest on May 12 with the assistance of Sherpas Ang Gyalzen and Dawa Temba, who carried up the stand, the housing and the tubing for the laser prisms. Vern asse...
The Avalanche Book. Betsy Armstrong and Knox Williams. Fulcrum, Golden, Colorado, 1986. 212 pages, appendices, bibliography. $14.95.Anyone whose encounters with snow tend toward the nonhorizontal should have a working understanding of avalanches. ...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club enjoyed an unusually active year. Sixteen week-end climbing outings were sponsored, which attracted over 500 active participants. The popular Sunday afternoon hikes and horseback outings were continued. Nineteen profess...