Kara-su valley, Kotina, northwest face, Czarna Wolga. There are many problems to overcome if you go to the Karavshin. It’s possible to hire an agent to prepare everything, but we couldn’t, as we didn’t have the money. Nevertheless, at the beginnin...
Makalu, by Jean Franco. Translated from the French by Denise Morin.London: Jonathan Cape, 1957. 256 pages; ills.; maps. Price 25s.The ascent of Makalu in 1955, as with all the 8000-meter peaks, was a superb achievement accomplished by a group of h...
FALL ON SNOW, DESCENDING UNROPED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Alaska, Mount McKinleyAt approximately mid day on May 20, 1992, Soo Yang Yung (29), Sung Tak Hong (26) and Seong Jong Jin (25) from Korea were killed while attempting to descend the Orient Expr...
Siguniang Region, Various Activity. In September, the American/Italian team of Craig and Silvia Luebben traveled to the Siguniang Mountains in China’s Sichuan Province hoping to climb new big wall routes. They established a camp in the Shuanqiao V...
On August 12th, my long time climbing partner (27) and I, Bud Miller (27), set off to climb the 1000-foot North Face of The Rostrum (8 pitches, IV 5.11c). The route was new to both of us and sure to push our limits, but it’s considered relative...
Winter Ascent of Gannett Peak, Wind River Range. What appears to be the first winter ascent of Gannett Peak (13,785 feet) was made last winter. Late on December 20, Patrick Caywood, Eliot Goss, Walter Gove, Albert Nickerson and Leif-Norman Patters...
Khumbu, Nagpai Gosum I, background on the encounter with Chinese soldiers. David Morton’s experience was the first incident of this kind ever to befall any mountaineers within Nepalese territory. On the other side of the border not far from the Na...
Nanga Parbat, Ski Attempt. In 1990, under the sponsorship of the Deutsches Institut für Auslandsforschung, Josef and Marianne Walter reached the Diamir Col on skis but were unable to continue because of snow conditions. (AAJ, 1991, pp. 276-7.) The...
Bear Mountain’s Forgotten FaceAlan J. KearneyFIVE MILES south of the Canadian border in the North Cascade Mountains rises one of the largest rock walls in the Pacific Northwest. Though Bear Mountain appears as a minor peak on the map, its seldom v...
Saf Minal (6,911m), northwest face. John Varco (U.S.) and I (UK) made the first ascent of the northwest face of Saf Minal (6,911m) in the Indian Garhwal reaching the summit on October 5. Unlike its sister peaks Kalanka and Changabang with their 1,...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The past year was an unfortunate blend of success and tragedy for the MCA. On the first day of 1974 an avalanche in the Chugach Range took the life of Mark Rainery, Huts and Cabins Chairman of the club, who had made ...
1951–081959–0420092009USACANUSACAN.TerrainRock453052877Snow236735541Ice270158River1530Unknown22100Ascent or DescentAscent358958779Descent102337145Unknown250131OtherNB702Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock358929059Slip on snow or ice102320727Fallin...
Tamadonog, Doomed to Miyar; Geruda Peak, first ascent. The Tharanga, the local population of the lower Miyar Valley, are mainly shepherds and farmers. They gladly help expeditions visiting their valley and were of great assistance to our second Po...
GeographicalDistricts1951–19911992Number of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta276816149417British Columbia234905225215Yukon Territory292563209Ontario27650000Quebec21549104East Arctic722000...
FRANCIS ADAMS TRUSLOW1906-1951Francis Adams Truslow, our member since 1938, died suddenly of a heart attack last July. He was on his way to Rio de Janeiro with his family as U.S. Commissioner on the United States-Brazil Joint Commission for Econom...
Cathedral Spires. Hank Abrons and I took off on a whim in June for the Cathedral Spires. Hank had only three weeks, and we knew June was the wrong month, but greed at the prospect of Middle Triple Peak, second highest of the Spires and a splendid ...
MIRIAM O’BRIEN UNDERHILL1899–1976It was on a Boston-Maine sleeping car back in the 1920s that I first met Miriam O’Brien. We were on our way to the Glen House, at the foot of Mount Washington, for a week of winter climbing with the “Bemis Crew, an...
During the summer of 1963, Sterling B. Hendricks, Donald Hubbard, Major Michael Banks, and I spent three weeks climbing in the "Hole-in-the-Wall Creek” area of the Logan Mountains. On July 22 and 23 we landed by aircraft on "Lonely Lake”, about ...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE BELAYS, ETC.Wisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkDuring 1994, seven climbing accidents were reported from this area. All involved falling from various heights, and one of them resulted in a fatality...
Nanda Kot, South Face. A guided British expedition made the first ascent of the south face, approaching from the Pindari Glacier. The summit (6861 meters) was reached on October 2 by Richard Baskerville, Martin Moran, Andrew Nisbet, Jonathan Prest...