FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, DARKNESS, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, The SquawOn August 3, 1987, Carlo Zozykran (34), an experienced climber, and two companions left Squamish in the late afternoon to do Birds of Prey (approxim...
First Sagarmatha Preservation Expedition. The First Sagarmatha Preservation Expedition, a unique environmental project to remove the debris of previous mountaineering attempts on Everest, finished the second phase of its operation during the autum...
McKinley Climbers’ Memorial. A memorial dedicated to climbers who have died on McKinley has been established in Talkeetna, Gateway to Denali. Through the end of 1992, 75 mountaineers representing 13 nations have lost their lives on North America’s...
Sinkiang. In October 1948 the New York Times reported an attempt on 18,000-ft. Bogdo Ola by E. E. Shipton and H. W. Tilman, well-known English climbers. According to reports, the climb was attempted from both the S.E. and N.E. sides. A camp was es...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. The highlight of the 1966 climbing season, which was inadvertently omitted from last year’s Journal, was a DMC climbing camp in Canada’s Selkirks. Amidst typical electrical rain and hail storms, standard climbs were ...
Langtang Lirung Attempt. A Spanish expedition of five led by Miguel Angel Puertas attempted to climb Langtang Lining by its southeast ridge, successfully ascended by Japanese in the spring of 1986. Strong winds prevented the climb. The highest poi...
Central Peak of Annapurna South or Moditse. Uzo Tada led four other members of the Doryu Alpine Club. They attacked the east ridge. On October 21 Yoshio Yamamoto and Kozu Yoshida reached the central peak (23,458 feet) of Annapurna South from the n...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The new decade began with a winter membership program at the Academy of Sciences in San Francisco, February 21. The purpose of the program was to invite the general public, to communicate Club interests and accomplis...
Kedar Dome. Our 16-person international expedition established Base Camp at Tapovan on September 2. Our plans were to climb the northwest ridge of Kedar Dome and Shivling’s south buttress. Advance Base was established below the south face of Shivl...
Chummakhang East, Northern Sikkim. This satellite peak (6050 meters, 19,849 feet) of the 6212-meter main peak of Chummakhang was climbed by an expedition led by P.M. Das of the Sonam Gyasto Mountaineering Institute of Gangtok, Sikkim. The area has...
K2. A very strong Italian expedition under the leadership of Professor Ardito Desio and consisting of 12 climbers, 7 of them guides, and 4 scientists arrived in late May at their base camp at the foot of K2 (28,253 ft.). Bad weather hindered their...
Coylloriti and Colquepuncu, Nudo Ayacachi, Cordillera Vilcanota. Our expedition was composed of B. Carry, F. Dreyfus, J-C. Meneau, J-Y. Margantini, J-F. Tripart and me. Tripart soon had to be evacuated to Ocongate and took little part. We had been...
Cuerno Principal del Paine and La Hoja, 1991. An Italian group composed of Franco Nicolini, Romeo Destefani, Claudio Kerschbaumer and Felice Spell- ini climbed a new route on the southwest face of the Cuerno Principal on November 6, 1991. It took ...
Mustagh Ata, Approached from Pakistan. From Islamabad on July 25 we headed by bus for the 4960-meter-high Kunjerab Pass on the Pakistani-Chinese frontier. This road has been open to tourists only since May. We got to the Chinese border town of Par...
Volcán Lanín. The only long new route made so far this season was on the south face of Volcán Lanín, 12,388 feet. The upper part of this peak has a cap of ice that guards its upper slopes. On November 17, 1956, Carlos Sonntag, Gregorio Ezguerra, W...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING ALONEColorado, Second FlatironOn September 4, rescuers were dispatched to the Second Flatiron on a report of a stranded climber. Noah Gershon (20) was located on a near vertical edge of the “Pullman Car,” a...
Syurenfen Attempt, Tien Shan. Our expedition, composed of Junichi Sinozaki, Yuji Kato, Masato Kameda, Susumi Takagishi, Toshikazu Yokosawa and me as leader, hoped to climb the southeast ridge of Syurenfen (6627 meters, 21,742 feet), which lies due...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, POOR POSITION, “ATTITUDE”California, Joshua Tree National Monument, Feudal WallOn March 12,1993, a male climber (early 20s) was leading Coyote in the Bushes (5.10a) on Feudal Wall above campsite 7. He was belay...
No. 13: Adam Lebwald, Damographia oder Gemsen- Beschrcibung. 8 vo., pp. 56, with illustrations. A facsimile of a seventeenth-century black-letter book, containing quaint description of the habits of the chamois and the story of Maximilian’s advent...
Lhotse Middle, first ascent. The most impressive all of accomplishments in the spring was the first ascent of Lhotse Middle (8413m), which although not exactly a mountain in its own right, stands only 50 meters lower than Makalu and was widely rec...