Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan

Mount Logan. Dan Dobbins and Bob Carlson climbed the main peak of Mount Logan on July 5 while Chris Hoepker and Colin Fuller climbed the west peak. They ascended via King Col.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick

Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick. We were seven climbers (Ben Masterson, Didi Langen, H.M. Gotz, Walter Obergolser, Heli Gargitter, Stefan Glowacz and myself). We started the climbing on July 3 and arrived on top July 20. We had fixed ropes all the way t...


Accident Reports ANAM
Exceeding Abilities, Ascending Too Slowly, Exposure, Hypothermia, Frostbite, Weather, Washington, Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge

EXCEEDING ABILITIES, ASCENDING TOO SLOWLY, EXPOSURE, HYPOTHERMIA, FROSTBITE, WEATHERWashington, Mount Rainier, Liberty RidgeAbout 2000 on May 1, 1992, the park received a message from the emergency radio located at Camp Muir from the summit. The c...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow — Falling Ice Sheet Knocked Climber Off, Climbing Unroped, Oregon, Mount Hood, Southside

FALL ON SNOW – FALLING ICE SHEET KNOCKED CLIMBER OFF, CLIMBING UNROPEDOregon, Mount Hood, SouthsideOn June 9, Meredith Jacques (30) was ascending the Southside Route with 11 others. They were at the 10,000-foot level near the summit rocks when a “...


Club Activities AAJ
Appalachian Mountain Club

Appalachian Mountain Club. The AMC continued its program of training in rock climbing and mountaineering. However, both large chapters (Boston and New York) made efforts to limit the participants in an effort to slow the influx of people into tech...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, P 6120, Near the Devils Thumb, Southeastern Alaska

P 6120, Near the Devils Thumb, Southeastern Alaska. On May 18 Curt Olson and I climbed P 6120, one of the prominent peaks east of the junction of the Baird Glacier and the Witch’s Cauldron near the Devils Thumb. The climb involved about 3000 feet ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Moro Rock, El Niño

Moro Rock, El Niño. Grant Gardner, Jody Pennycook and I completed a new route on the east face of Moro Rock in Sequoia National Park during an extended Veteran’s Day weekend. Three and a half days were spent on El Niño (V 5.10 A3+). This nine-pitc...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, Peak 10552, Cathedral Rock, The Snaz

Peak 10552, Cathedral Rock, The Snaz. This route ascends the west face of Cathedral Rock in the large dihedral cutting up the center of the face. Yvon Chouinard and Mort Hemple on August 4 pioneered this excellent IV, F9 route. After a steep step ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Falling Object (the Climber), Climbing Unroped, Placed No Protection, Poor Position, Exceeding Abilities, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hallet Peack

FALL ON ROCK, FALLING OBJECT (THE CLIMBER), CLIMBING UNROPED, PLACED NO PROTECTION, POOR POSITION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hallett PeakOn June 25, 1994, at 1015, John Baise (21) was attempting to lead, unroped, ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Kennedy, North Ridge, Second Ascent

Mount Kennedy, North Ridge, Second Ascent. On May 12 Terry Boley, Jack Lewis, Alan Millar, David Stevenson and I left the Alaska Highway and arrived at the base of Kennedy’s north side after seven days of travel. There we located our food and equi...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Sierra Nevada, Clyde Minaret

California, Sierra Nevada, Clyde Minaret—In the early afternoon of September 3, Dick Scheible, Jay Holliday, Marcia Lightbody, and Charles Finnila (21) of the University of California Hiking Club reached a point on Clyde Minaret where they decided...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India Punjab, Tos-Tichu Himal

Tos-Tichu Himal. Ernest Peterson and I spent three weeks of July in the Punjab Himalaya. From Kulu valley, about 350 miles north of New Delhi, we first drove and then hiked 30 miles eastward, up the valley of the Parbati River to the last village,...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Unable to Place Protection, Poor Position, Colorado, Mount Powell, Northwest Couloir

FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO PLACE PROTECTION, POOR POSITION Colorado, Mount Powell, Northwest CouloirOn July 6, W. H. (m. 26) and K. D. (f. 30) decided to climb unroped because of lack of available protection and soft snow unable to hold snow flukes o...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado, Turkey Creek Canyon

Colorado, Turkey Creek Canyon (1)—On July 4, Daniel McGill (15) fell while climbing with a group of friends in the Turkey Creek Canyon area. Details of the accident are unknown. The boy suffered a possible broken shoulder and other injuries.Source...


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche, British Columbia, Purcell Mountains

AVALANCHEBritish Columbia, Purcell MountainsA group of ten skiers led by Rudi Gertsch had been taken by helicopter to an unnamed 9,000-foot peak near the junction of McMurdo Creek and the Spillimacheen River in the Purcell Mountains on 14 February...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Mount Challenger, Southeast Face

Mount Challenger, Southeast Face. On July 27 Martin Epp, Ernst von Allmen and I climbed this route above Luna Creek, starting from the col between the face and the prominent gendarme. We followed the yellow dièdre until close to the overhanging se...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Singuchuli, East Face

Singuchuli, East Face. Until our visit, the east face of Singuchuli remained unclimbed. The face is 1450 meters high with an average angle of approximately 65°, and characterized by narrow couloirs, especially in upper part of the face. Over the e...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, West Greenland and Mount Raleigh, Baffin Island

West Greenland and Mount Raleigh, Baffin Island. The objective for Mischief’s second voyage to Davis Strait was Mount Raleigh in Exeter Sound on the east coast of Baffin Island. This mountain was so named by the great seaman-explorer John Davis in...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming - Tetons, Nez Perce, Lemon Crack

Nez Perce, Lemon Crack. This new route (III, F9, A3), climbed on August 1, 1969, by Peter Cleveland and Michael Yokell, is on the same cliff as the “Big Bluff’ route which was established some ten years ago. The route starts in a cave below a whit...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordillera Vilcabamba, Salcantay, East Ridge

Salcantay, East Ridge. On July 27 we pitched Base Camp at 14,275 feet below the east ridge of Salcantay. We placed camps at 16,250, 17,400 and 19,300 feet. On August 4 and 5 Dr. Mario Quattrini, Giorgio Marconi, Antonio Mangononi, Consuelo Bonaldi...