Mount McKinley, South Buttress-Thayer Basin-West Buttress Traverse. Jim Carpenter, Greg Kallio, Bill Laxson, Steve Lyford, Jim Miller, Dick Morse, Jeff Thomas and I began on June 18, traveling up the Kahiltna’s East Fork. After a few avalanche sca...
FALL ON ROCK WHILE DESCENDING Colorado, FlatironsOn May 10,1986, a female climber (23) had completed a fifth class route called Friday’s Folly on the third Flatiron in Boulder, when she slipped and fell during her descent down the third class gul...
Rakaposhi. Our objective was to climb the 10-mile-long difficult southwest ridge of Rakaposhi, previously climbed only by Mike Banks and Tom Patey in 1958. Poles and Japanese had also reached the summit in 1979 but by different routes. On July 2 w...
Mexico: (2) Popocatepetl volcano (17,887 ft.). On 3 September 1950 a large rock avalanche swept away a group of 25 climbers who were making a climb under the auspices of the Alpine Federation. Two members of the party were killed immediately while...
P c.1400. In late November, Steve Hayward, Chilean José Muriez and I completed a new trekking route, leaving the Río Ascencio via a steep glaciated pass northwest of the Japanese Camp. We climbed steep, unstable avalanche debris on the right side ...
Diran Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Jaume Anglada, Miquel Serrat, Joan Sola, Xevi Robiró R., Xevi Roviró A. Josep Rovira, Joan Colet and me as leader. We had hoped to complete a new route up the north ridge, previously attempted by Spaniard...
Beyond the High Himalayas, by William O. Douglas. 352 pages, with 16 Kodachromes and 26 black and white photographs by the author. Garden City, N. Y.: Doubleday & Company, 1952. Price, $5.00.Justice Douglas is outstandingly a good traveller an...
Manaslu. Our reconnaissance party to Manaslu of three members under the leadership of Ohara has returned from Nepal, reporting the successful settlement of the trouble which caused the 1954 party to give up the climb of Manaslu when the Sama villa...
Split Peak, North Face. The north face of the previously unclimbed east summit of Split Peak (9610 feet) was climbed by Jim States and me during the Memorial Day holiday. We approached from the north by canoe, bushwhack and knee-deep snow to camp ...
Harrison Smith and Lotus Flower Tower, Logan Mountains. Paola Fanton, Giuseppe Bagattoli, Danny Zampiccoli, Fabio Leoni and I traveled north to Watson Lake and were flown by float plane on July 3 to Glacier Lake. Four hours on foot took us into th...
Central Tien Shan, Overview. The weather during the 1998 season in the Central Tien-Shan (Khan-Tengri/Pobeda region), typified by a lot of snow and storm, was extremely terrible. Peak Pobeda was climbed by only a few groups; one of them, from Japa...
FALL ON ROCK (2), NO HARD HATCalifornia, Joshua Tree National Park, Hidden ValleyAbout 4:00 p.m. on March 15, Curtis “Woody” Stark (67) and Alfred Kuok (44) were climbing in an area near the Hidden Valley nature trail. The trail is a popular desti...
Everest, North Face Attempt. Our team was composed of five women: Stacy Allison, Evelyn Lees, Liz Nichols, Melly Reuling and Mimi Stone*, and ten men: Q. Belk, Dr. David Black, Peter Goldman, Michael Graber, Wes Krause, Bob McConnell, George Schun...
Staunings Alps, East Greenland. The Österreichischer Alpenverein sent an expedition to Greenland under the leadership of Hans Gsellmann consisting of the Austrians Hermann Köllensperger, Matthias Koglbauer, Sepp Huber, Gerhard Fuchs, and Kurt Gilg...
Dhaulagiri Autumn Attempts. Five expeditions attempted to climb the northeast ridge of Dhaulagiri. None of them was successful. Six Spaniards led by Ignacio Olaizola reached 6500 meters on September 21. Three Frenchmen and a Spaniard led by Alain ...
Lasontay, Cordillera Huaytapallana, 1973. Having already climbed in the Cordilleras Blanca and Vilcabamba (see above), on August 6, 1973 Fiut, Guzzy and Malinowski made the first ascent of the west ridge of Lasontay Sur or Yuracrumi (18,230 feet) ...
Jaonli Attempt. From September 14 to November 6, we attempted the unclimbed east side of Jaonli (6632 meters, 21,760 feet). British members were Richard Brooke, Jim Milledge, Mike Westmacott and I, Irish members were Joss Lynam and Paddy O’Leary a...
Chaukhamba. There were several expeditions to the Garhwal Himalayas in 1952. The most notable was the French party which climbed Chaukhamba, 23,420 feet, in the Gangotri group. The mountain had previously been attempted unsuccessfully by the Austr...
Toshain II. On August 12 a Mountain Travel group in the Mazeno Pass area made the first ascent of 19,500-foot Toshain II, 10½ miles southwest of Nanga Parbat, above the Toshain Glacier, on the south side of the Rupal Nallah. We started from Gilgit...
Everest 1935-36Permission for a renewed attempt on the world’s highest mountain was granted last year but came too late to put a group in the field in time for a spring attempt before the monsoon. It was felt, however, that in order to leave the w...