Morro dos Cabritos, O Céu é o Limite. Brazil features several areas with routes up to 1,260m (4,000') long, especially in the states of Rio de Janeiro, Minas Gerais, and Espirito Santo, where there are an amazing number of towers and domes of gran...
LOSS OF CONTROL–VOLUNTARY GLISSADEWashington, Mount Rainier National Park, Unicorn PeakOn the morning of July 24, a four-person team from the Mazamas Climbing Club set out to climb Unicorn Peak in the Tatoosh Range. On the descent from the summit ...
ROGER G. WOLCOTT1895-1982The climbing fraternity lost one of the pioneers of Eastern rock climbing and the older climbers lost a long-time friend when Roger Wolcott died January 5, 1982. His climbing career spanned more years than that of all but ...
FALL ON SNOW—INTO MOAT, INEXPERIENCE, FATIGUEWashington, Chikamin PeakRandy Schaffer (33) and Michael Wessels (31) were descending from a climb of Chikamin Peak about 1430 on Sunday, July 9, when Schaffer slipped on a snow slope at the 1725-meter ...
FALL ON ROCK, ASCENDERS ATTACHED INCORRECTLY – ROPE SEVERED Utah, Zion National Park, Touchstone WallShortly after 2:00 p.m. on October 17th, James Welton (34), Matt Tuttle, and I started up Touchstone Wall (III 5.9+ C2 1,000 feet). Though we cons...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NUT PULLED OUTWashington, Icicle Creek ButtressOn May 17, after several attempts on a pitch (short) on Eight Mile Buttress, Jeff Wright (37) climbed back to the high point to clean the protection. Because he wa...
MARJORY BRIDGE FARQUHAR 1903–1999Marjory Farquhar, one of America’s outstanding pioneer women climbers, died in San Francisco on January 22 after a short illness. Together with her late husband, Francis Farquhar, Marj was a great force in western ...
Swiss Mountaineering in 1859JOHN H. STRONGTHE following letter, unearthed among family papers, aroused my keen interest by its postmark, Switzerland, its date, 1859, and its theme, mountaineers and mountaineering in that far-away classic day when ...
Grand Teton, Otterbody Snowfield, First Ski Descent. The successful descent of the Hossack-MacGowen on the north face of the Grand Teton in February left at least one major unskied route still open off the summit: the Otterbody Snowfield route. Ex...
You never forget your first Himalayan experience. Charakusa was mine. Our first problem was visas. We were unable to obtain these in Slovenia and eventually were forced to go to Rome. Driving home with our visas, which we received on the last poss...
Mt. Trident. The opening of the highway along the Big Bend of the Columbia River brings nearer a large number of peaks unclimbed and unnamed. It will not, however, make them readily accessible to climbing parties unless trails are cut through the ...
Castle Peak, north-northwest wall, 7 d’espases. Last year Eloi Callado and I went to India to climb the Neverseen Tower. We put up a new route on the west face called Mai Blau (AAJ 2005, pp. 367-8). This year I went back for a couple of months, no...
The Path of The Master—TuolumneAlan NelsonTUOLUMNE IS A spiritual place. The blue skies, pine-scented air, and mountain splendor create a temple for all who visit. Many are the climbers who’ve been inspired on the golden granite domes that dot the...
1951-091959-0420102010USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock4607528128Snow240835553Ice278154River1530Unknown22100Ascent or DescentAscent3668587122Descent106837155Unknown251135OtherN.B.903Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock364829097Slip on snow or ice105020721F...
Mountain Activities of the Sierra Club, 1946. During the summer of 1946 the 42nd Annual Outing of the Sierra Club travelled for six weeks through the high Sierra Nevada, covering the finest and highest portions from Cottonwood Pass, S. of Mt. Whit...
Rock Climbs of Indian Cove, 74 pages, $8.95; Rock Climbs of Lost Horse Valley, 92 pages, $8.95; Rock Climbs of Hidden Valley, 108 pages, $9.95. All by Alan Bartlett, 1992. Topos. Quail Springs Publishing, PO Box 240, Joshua Tree, CA 92252.
Maria Lloco and Huayna Potosí, Cordillera Real. On July 31 Karl Collins, Ross Macfarlane and I climbed Maria Lloco (5639 meters, 18,500 feet) by its east ridge. On August 3 Macfarlane and I completed the ascent of the west ridge of Huayna Potosí (...
Mt. McKinley, Cassin Ridge, Ascent and Update. Fredrick Wilkinson and I, both 20, made an ascent of the Cassin Ridge over June 2-3. This report is an update of the hanging serac on the route at approximately 14,200 feet. In years past, it has been...
FALL ON SNOWWyoming, TetonsOn July 9 at 2 p.m., while attempting to climb up beside Spalding Falls to the top, Stacey Grode slipped on the snowslope and fell down into the moat of the falls. She came to rest between the snow and rock in the water....
FALL ON ROCKUtah, Diamond ForkOn May 8, we were paged out at 1730 for a fall victim, still hanging from his rope, in Diamond Fork Canyon.When I arrived on scene the boy (victim) was sitting in a car. Dick asked me to check him out, but the boy did...