P 11,160. In July, 1979 two routes were ascended on the east buttress of P 11,160 which lies one-quarter mile southeast of Dome Peak above New Fork Park. John Gottman and Greg Janiec climbed the northeast side, utilizing a large chimney. Seven pit...
Shuteye Ridge, South Face, The Big Sleep. This face is visible from the south on the Shuteye Pass Trail. The formation is just above the letters “Sh” in the words Shuteye Pass on the USGS fifteen-minute quadrangle “Shuteye Pass.” Doug Mathews and ...
Gasherbrum IV, West Face Solo Attempt and Tragedy. Slavko Sveticic died while attempting to climb solo the west face of Gasherbrum IV (7925 meters). We were: Slavko Sveticic, Milan Zver, Jurij Oblak, Pakistani liaison officer Capt. Mohamad Umar, c...
Mana Peak and Nilgiri Parbat, Garhwal. An Indian expedition, led by Captain Jagjit Singh, failed to climb Mana Peak (23,860 feet) in the post-monsoon period. Another Indian expedition climbed Nilgiri Parbat (21,240 feet) (first ascent in 1937 by F...
Reconnaissance, Qôrorssuaq, Southwest Greenland. In the course of an extended wedding trip, we launched a brief expedition to examine climbing possibilities near Narssarsuaq, a major commercial airport. My wife Caroline and I were joined in mid-Au...
Index Town Wall, Waterway Left Route. On July 18, Les Davenport and I completed a route about midway between Beckey’s Town Crier Route (A.A.J., 1967, 15:2, p. 350) and Jim Madsen and Ron Burghner’s Golden Arch Route, so named because the route fol...
Langtang Lirung. A post-monsoon expedition from the Turin section of the Italian Alpine Club was organized to celebrate the first century of the Club. Its objective was Langtang Lirung (23,770 feet), twice unsuccessfully attempted by the Japanese....
Manaslu Tragedy. A Catalan expedition from Spain attempted to climb Manaslu (8156 meters, 26,760 feet) via the standard northeast face but varying the route above 23,000 feet to follow a more direct line to the summit. The expedition’s leader, Enr...
Kichatna Spire, As Good as It Gets. In July Nathan Martin and I completed a new route up the center of the central buttress on Kichatna Spire’s east face. This was the sixth ascent of the peak, with each ascent creating a new route. The east face ...
Venezuela. In February, 1940, A. E. Gunther and K. W. Barr made an expedition into the Sierra de Merida and together made the ascent of Pico Bolivar by a route which appears to be followed regularly by many native climbers. On February 3rd Gunther...
Central Howser Tower, South Face. On August 15, Bruce Adams, Jim Cameron and I climbed the excellent, clean south face, a route I had twice been stormed off in attempts with Andrew Embick. The first two pitches are up the ice gully between the eas...
Attempt on Annapurna I. After an approach march of eight days from Pokhara, a strong German expedition led by Ludwig Greissl arrived at Base Camp at 14,100 feet on the West Annapurna Glacier. The other members of the party were Helmut Müller, Rein...
Makalu West Buttress, One-Day Solo Ascent. I spent from April 8 to 25 with Iman Gurung and Onggel Sherpa fixing rope on the west buttress of Makalu up to 7750 meters. I left my Base Camp at 4950 meters at two P.M. on April 26 for the final climb. ...
Alpamayo Attempt. We four Canadians, Scipio Merler, Fips Broda, Jack Cade and I, attempted Alpamayo in early June, approaching it from Palo Seco and the new road being built to Safuna. That road should be ready in 1973, making it possible to drive...
Cottontail Tower and Echo Tower, Fisher Towers, 1988 and 1989. I soloed a new route up the south face of Cottontail Tower in nine days with one bivouac. Intifada (VI, 5.10, A6) tours the south face and connects with Ed Webster’s solo route for the...
Half Dome, Northwest Face. In August, Doug Robinson, Dennis Hen- nek, and I climbed the normal route entirely on nuts and runners. We avoided fixed pitons in all places except for a tension traverse on the first zig-zag where a nut placement would...
Menthosa, Deo Tibba, lndrasan, Ali Ratni Tibba. I was leader of the Army Mountaineering Association Himachal Pradesh Expedition, which consisted of 27 members of the British Services. British Army Gurkhas were also included. We aimed to climb four...
Nanga Parbat is again in the limelight as a group of Germans set out to try the ascent again late in March of this year. The party is led by Willi Merkl, the leader of the German-American Expedition of 1932, and is composed of Fritz Bechtold, Pete...
PHYLLIS BEATRICE MUNDAY1894-1990With the death of Phyllis Munday on April 11, 1990 at Nanaimo, British Columbia, Canada, the American Alpine Club lost an Honorary Member (since 1967) and the Alpine Club of Canada lost its Honorary President.Phyl w...
On February 10, 2010, Li Lan and I summited Wuse Shan (“Five Colors Mountain,” 5,430m) via the south face. The North Face sponsored our climb. The peak had been attempted several times, but we believe our ascent was the first. We named the r...