Tengkangpoche (6,487m), northeast face, Moonlight. In November Hiroyoshi Manome and Yasushi Okada made the long-awaited first ascent of the northeast face of Tengkangpoche. The pair, who in 2006 made the third ascent of Meru Central, made base cam...
Mount Powell, Broken Rainbow Route. Kim Walker and I climbed this route up the east face of Mount Powell. Climb a crack straight up to an obvious large, orange bulge about half-way up the face, then traverse left and ascend the crack that forms th...
Mount Darwin, Southwest Arête. While camped at Evolution Lake in July, I noticed a surprisingly clean and well-defined granite arête on the 13,831-foot Mt. Darwin’s jumbled and broken southern wall. The arête rises continuously apart from the main...
Hanuman. This 19,903-foot peak, which lies on the northern rim of the peaks which surround Nanda Devi, turned back W. H. Murray’s Scottish expedition in 1950, when they were stopped by a 400-foot drop off the back side of a rock tower only 900 fee...
Mount Hoffman, Crimson Corner and Hoffman’s Turret. To the right of the Merle-Alley route on the north face of Mount Hoffman is a large, left-facing, reddish-stained comer starting about 200 feet off the ground. Two pitches led to the base of the ...
Mt. Messines, 10,290 ft. First ascent, July 15. D. Duncan, A. Megrew. Following ascent of Mt. Cambrai.
"Shey Shikhar," Various Ascents. In September and October my team explored a remote region of the Kanji Roba Himal in the Dolpo region of northwestern Nepal. I spent over a year attempting to procure a permit for a never-attempted mountain called ...
Nevado de Putre. The first reported ascent of Nevado de Putre or Tarapacá (5830 meters, 19,128 feet), located 30 miles east of Arica, was accomplished by a large group of trekkers led by F. Mira, of the Club Aguila Azul. The glaciated volcano Pari...
Aconcagua, Southeast Ridge, Second Ascent. Spaniards Xabier Erro, Martín Zabaleta and Juan Hugas made the second ascent of the southeast ridge of Aconcagua, which was first climbed in 1953 by the Swiss couple Marmillod, Argentines Grajales and Lie...
Mt. McKinley, Light Traveler; Mt. Hunter, Moonflower Buttress; Mini-Moonflower, Luna. In mid- June American Stephen Koch and Slovenian Marko Prezelj established Light Traveler on Mt. McKinley’s southwest face in a 51-hour round-trip from the 14,20...
The northeast face of Ken Minaret features a sharp ridge that leads directly to the summit. In August 2008 Kevin Hartigan and I climbed nine pitches (Broken Rib, 5.9) along this prominent rib in a long day from Devil’s Postpile. We enjoyed grea...
Nampa, Attempt. Our overland approach to Nampa (22,162 feet) was the only inexpensive way. Before we left England on July 12, we had received permission from the Indian Ministry of External Affairs, as well as from the Nepalese Government. Our arr...
Chinle Spire. Jutting out off the north corner of the wingate sandstone, Round Rock is a spectacular reddish spire, some 300 to 400 feet high. It is very apparent while driving along Monument Valley to Canyon de Chelly. Eric Bjørnstad and I spent ...
Latok IV. The Sangaku Doshikai Expedition was composed of Koji Okano, Hisashi Handa, Tsutomu Tagusari, Dr. Masaki Noda and me as leader. Latok IV lies south of Latok III. A Japanese attempt in 1976 ended when a member was killed. We made Base Camp...
Paronraju, Cordillera Blanca and Patrón Sur, Cordillera Raura. Miguel Acevedo and Charles Greaves, members of the Venezuelan Alpine Association, made the first ascent on September 5 of Paronraju (18,537 feet), which lies northwest of Pisco. (The E...
Howser Towers, Couloir Between South and Middle Towers, Bugaboos. Although we failed because of bad weather to complete a route on the south ridge of Middle Howser Tower, Dave Goeddel and I on August 31 climbed from the east an ice couloir to reac...
McKinley, New Routes. Our original intention was to climb the Cassin Ridge, but that was overrun with climbers and we found a ridge, which had only been descended but not ascended before. (See above.) Southwest of Windy Comer, it runs over P 12,96...
Annapurna, Attempt by the Northwest Spur of “Nameless Peak.” Between Annapurna I and Varah Shikhar (Fang) lies a peak which must be over 7700 meters, which has been called the “Nameless Peak.” A distinct spur descends to the valley of the Miristhi...
Phabrang. The Mountaineering Association of Shiga Prefecture sent Shigemaro Ibayashi, leader, Takao Yamada and six others to India. Base Camp was placed at 15,000 feet north of the mountain on September 21. A 19,000-foot peak west of Camp I (18,00...
Brammah I, Ski Descent. Our expedition was composed of Emmanuel Rossi, Dr. Jean-Marie Rossi, Denis Favre, Jean-Pierre Susini, Guy Bartschi, Jacques Simon and me as leader. The purpose of the expedition was to make and film an extreme ski descent. ...