Expeditions in Patagonia. News has been very slow in arriving from the south and is (in late February) still quite incomplete. It appears that activity in the southern Andes has as always been badly hampered by the weather. There was only one peri...
Nameless Tower, Claire de Lune. Gabriel Besson, Claude-Alain Gaillan, David Maret and I arrived at Base Camp on the Dunge Glacier at the beginning of July. The route we opened, Claire de Lune (VI 6b A3, 1230m), lies between that of Michel Piola (G...
Kohe Keshnikhan, M7. A French expedition was in the Mandaras valley. Members were Louis Audoubert, leader, Monique and Georges Rouch, Guy Panozzo, Albert Pradal, and Jean and Marie Denise Dabos. On July 21 Audoubert, Mme Rouch, Pradal and Panozzo ...
Ojos del Salado, Puna de Atacama. After climbing in Bolivia, Ichiyo Muko, Go Nishimura, Fumihiko Imamura, Koya Takeshita, Akinobu Nakamura, Norio Yamamoto, Ryosecki Kanai and Ichiu Muko were joined by the Chileans, Sergio Kunstmann, Juan Tangol, J...
Southernmost of the Seven Sisters Mountains and Glacial Exploration, Ellesmere Island, 1987. On August 2, 1987, Dan Merfeld, Dave Slobodin and I made the first known non-aerial exploration of the snout of the Abbe Glacier (82°01 'N, 71°30'W), asce...
ASPHYXIATION, WEATHER, FATIGUEWashington, Mount RainierDr. John Weis and Donald Wiltberger, Northwest transplants from Ohio’s tabletop farmland, loved to climb mountains and showed that love up to their final moments on Mount Rainier’s steep peaks...
P 6702. After the six-man Japanese expedition led by Kijoji Aizawa had failed to climb the long east ridge of Bhagirathi I, one of the members, Takaaki Fujii made a solo ascent of P 6702 (21,988 feet) on September 24. This peak lies south of Vasuk...
Ketil Attempt and Ascent of Pingasut, South Greenland, 1991. A French expedition composed of Vincent Buffin, Bruno Lambert, Emmanuel Ratouis, Isabelle ??????, Bruno Martel and Alain Hoffman climbed above Tasermiut Fjord in July of 1991. In unstabl...
STRANDED, CLIMBING ALONE, INEXPERIENCE California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn June 29,1989, my daughter and I were alerted by tourists that somebody was yelling for help on the back side of Intersection Rock. Upon inspection, we found a solo ...
P 13,040+, Third Needle, Trail Camp Crag, Lone Pine Peak, The Duck, The Turret. P 13,040+ lies just north of Mount Powell. On the right side of the east face is a straight-up crack that goes from the ground to the summit ridge, finishing north of ...
AMS, INABILITY TO COMMUNICATEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 21, 1991, Japanese climbers Hiroshi Sakurai (28) and Hiroshi Urayama (34) arrived at 15,500 feet on the Haston-Scott route on the south face of Mount McKinley.The pair had ascended 3,500 f...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face Attempt. The members of our expedition were Dr. Paul Robadey, Pierre Morand, Alexis Bally, Christian Haymoz, Vincent Banderet and I as leader. We arrived at Base Camp on June 5. We placed Camps I, II, III and IV (in the B...
Shivling and Meru North Attempts and Tragedies. Two groups from Palencia left to climb in the Gangotri region of Garhwal together. Our party consisted of leader César Tomé Ondicol, Enrique Fernández, José Luis Becerra, Juan Antonio Ordoñez and me;...
Going Higher: the Story of Man at Altitude. Charles S. Houston, M.D. Published by Charles S. Houston, M.D., 77 Ledge Road, Burlington, Vermont 05401. 288 pages; illustrated with drawing, black-and-white photographs and 8 pages of color photographs...
Alpine Club of Canada. The 1973 General Mountaineering Camp was held near Glacier Lake in Banff National Park. The three-week camp attracted 176 participants. A new concept which proved very successful was that of having the regular two-week camp ...
Tilitso Attempt. Seven South Tiroleans led by Othmar Zingerle attempted to climb Tilitso (7134 meters, 23,406 feet) by the northeast spur and the north ridge. Their high point of 6200 meters was reached on November 5.Elizabeth Hawley
La Reina Roja, southwest face. I first visited the Trango group in 2000 to try the Slovenian route on Nameless Tower. Our expedition was unsuccessful, and it took me seven years to return to Pakistan. There are not many big-wall climbers in Mexico...
FALL/SLIP ON LOOSE ROCK—Wyoming, The Tetons, Baxter’s Couloir. John Wahlund (22) was a member of a five person party which had climbed Baxter’s Pinnacle. They had just completed the rappel from the Pinnacle and were beginning to descend the South ...
FALL ON ROCK, IMPROPERLY PLACED ROLTS, EXCEEDING ABILITIESIllinois, Drapers RluffOn April 1, David Krupp (26) fell 30 feet from a 5.10 bolted route. He set out with three experienced climbers to ascend his first bolted route. He was a skilled begi...
“Doubtful Tower,” Bella Coola Icecap, 1979. On August 20, 1979 Fred Beckey, Bill Lahr, Brad McCarroll, Roy Ratcliff and I took off from Nimpo Lake, made an airdrop at our proposed Base Camp and then were flown to Ape Lake. Our approach involved cr...