Accident Reports ANAM
California, San Gabriel Mountains, Echo Mountain

California, San Gabriel Mountains (4), Echo Mountain—Early in the afternoon of December 3, Mr. and Mrs. Bowers (27) another adult and six children (two of their own) ages 5 to 9, set out to climb Echo Mountain (3,207). The ascent was accomplished ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Cerebral Edema, Washington, Mt. Rainier

CEREBRAL EDEMA Washington, Mt. RainierBreck Haining was airlifted from the Emmons Glacier on Mt. Rainier on August 15 after suffering a seizure which may have been caused by cerebral edema, a rare high altitude sickness. He was discharged from Har...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Correction, Caullaraju Group

Correction, Caullaraju Group. The Japanese ladies did not climb the highest point of the Caullaraju group, as stated in A.A.J., 1967, 15:2, p. 390, but Nevado Brasil (18,491 feet).


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Istroronal, Southwest Ridge

Istoronal, Southwest Ridge. Reinhold Stauber led a nine-member Austrian expedition on the second ascent of Istoronal (7403 meters) via the southwest ridge, reaching the summit on July 19 at 10:15 a.m. The team experienced mixed climbing with the c...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Cascades, Mt. Baker

Washington, Cascades, Mt. Baker. On November 2 Hans Jorritsma (30), and Joan Huckell (27) hiked in and established a camp at Camp Kizer on the north side of Mt. Baker. They carried skis and climbing equipment. At 4:30 A.M. on the third, they proce...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordilleras Vilcabamba and Urubamba, Cordillera Huanzo

Cordillera Huanzo. We spent some ten days crossing the high, arid, desolate, volcanic plateaus which separate the departments of Cuzco, Arequipa and Apurímac. We went from Santo Tomás to Antabamba. Getting to Santo Tomás with its irregular traffic...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Cheap Hooker

Cheap Hooker. The Black Canyon hosts some of the country’s most adventurous rock climbs and is notorious for epics, runout climbing, difficult route finding, and chossy rock. This past year saw Topher Donahue and I up a few new routes. The Hooker ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Third Needle, Whitney Needles, East Face

Third Needle, Whitney Needles, East Face. In late August, 1966 Mike Heath solo made a new route on the Third Needle, climbing the prominent chimney splitting the upper east face.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Traverse of the Brooks Range from Kaktovik to Kotzebue

Traverse of the Brooks Range from Kaktovik to Kotzebue. On March 25 with 100-pound loads, Chuck Comstock on Nordic racing skis and I left Rokotvik, Barter Island, Alaska and headed west across sea ice. Our bottle of 80-proof whiskey froze the firs...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Mt. Otis

Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Mt. Otis. On 25 July at about 3 P.M. a party of six climbers in the Rocky Mountain Guide Service Mountaineering School was participating in a rock climbing demonstration and practice on a rock formation on t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri. Dhaulagiri was climbed in 1960 for the first time by a Swiss expedition, led by Max Eiselin, by the northeast ridge. Now, 20 years later, Eiselin organized another expedition to the same mountain, open to all experienced mountaineers. ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, New Mexico, Ship Rock, East Fact, Secret Passage Route

Shiprock, East Face, Secret Passage Route. In September Harvey T. Carter and I climbed a new route on the east face of Shiprock beginning at an improbable, thin crack about 200 feet south of Honeycomb Gully. We ascended two steep pitches to the “C...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Torbert and Other Peaks, Tordrillo Mountains

Mount Torbert and Other Peaks, Tordrillo Mountains. Alaskans Tom Choate, Gary Lawton, Jerry Minick and I climbed in this range, which is visible from Anchorage. Lowell Thomas, Jr., one of the 1964 first-ascent party of Mount Torbert, flew us to th...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay, Inexperience, Alberta, Banff National Park, Grotto Canyon, Paintings Walls

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Banff National Park, Grotto Canyon, Paintings WallOn July 18, a climber who fell roughly 30 feet off a wall near the pictographs at Grotto Canyon was rescued. J.G. (51) was leading a 5.9 climb ...


Club Activities AAJ
Colorado Mountain Club

Colorado Mountain Club. 1963 marked the first time the Colorado Mountain Club has conducted an outing outside the United States. Forty members went on the club expedition to the Cordillera Blanca of Peru, reported on in Climbs and Expeditions. Sta...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India-Garhwal, Kalanka

Kalanka. We set out from Lata on September 11 and six days later reached Base Camp on a moraine lake north of the Uttari Rishi Gal. For three days we reconnoitered the approaches to Kalanka over the Uttari Rishi Gal but found it would have taken t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Dragontail

Dragontail. Three new routes were added on this peak. The Northeast Buttress, Grade III or IV, 5.7 or 5.8 by Fred Beckey, Ron Burgner, and Tom Nephew; the North Face, Grade II, F7 by Fred Stanley and James F. Wickwire; and an ascent of the longest...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, History and Relative Heights of Tiquimani's Three Peaks

History and Relative Heights of Tiquimani’s Three Peaks. Tiquimani, one of the finest peaks in the Cordillera Real, has long posed a problem for Andean historians. Two fundamental questions have gone unanswered: which is the true summit, the west,...


Club Activities AAJ
Alaska Alpine Club

Alaska Alpine Club. The flag of the Alaska Alpine Club was carried by the C4M4 Mount McKinley Expedition on its successful Karstens Ridge venture in early summer. Unfortunately one member, who did not reach the top, developed cerebral edema on the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Purcell Range, Ascents from Warren Glacier

Ascents from Warren Glacier. Mr. and Airs. I. A. Richards, from a camp near the tongue of this glacier, in August, made several ascents. The first ascent of Northpost Spire was made by the easy N. E. rocks. Brenta Spire was ascended by the Northpo...