Monte Sarmiento Attempt. Philip Swainson, Susan Cooper, Henry Todd and I aimed to attempt the southeast ridge of Monte Sarmiento (2404 meters, 7888 feet). The only successful ascent to the east summit, the highest summit in the group, had been mad...
Appalachian Mountain Club. During 1960 the Appalachian Mountain Club, through its many members, participated once again in expeditions to almost all mountain ranges of the world, with greatest emphasis, as usual, in North America.The club issued i...
Spider Mountain, North Face. The large, steep firnfields on the north face of Spider Mountain had always interested me. One route on the north face had been climbed, but Spider is a broad mountain, with room well to the left for another nice alpin...
Mount Jeffers, Southwest Buttress. Dave Nettle and Geoff Creighton climbed a new line on the southwest buttress of Mount Jeffers. They did not reach the summit. They rated the climbing to their high point at 5.9, A3.
Reid Pletcher (22), and I (Mali Noyes) were climbing together on May 26. This was going to be our last climb of the day. He was leading the climb, placing gear as he ascended. When he was about 20–30 feet up the wall, he unexpectedly fell. At th...
K6 West Peak II (P 7040). The Toyama Sanyu-kai expedition, led by Shoko Saegi, left Khapalu on June 8 and reached Base Camp at the junction of the Gondokhoro and Chogolisa Glaciers at 12,500 feet on June 14. They proceeded south to the north side ...
Verónica Group, Cordillera Vilcabamba. An Argentine expedition of the Club Andino Tucumana headed by Orlando Bravo ascended two peaks in the Verónica group in the Cordillera Vilcabamba. On January 27, 1960, from a 16,000-foot camp above the head o...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (1)—On June 23, 1956 a party of three were glissading, unroped, down a large snow field leading into Garnet Canyon from the Middle Teton Glacier. Miss Patricia King (18) made an attempt to control her glissade by...
The Seven Summits in Seven Months, 1990. New Zealanders Rob Hall and Gary Ball reached the summits of the seven continents in just seven months of 1990. (It must be stated that they consider Mount Kosciusko in Australia and not Carstensz Pyramid i...
Deborah, Hayes, Hess and Other Peaks, Central Alaska Range. In April and May an Alaska Alpine Club sponsored group did some extensive climbing in the central Alaska Range. On April 14 Carl Tobin, Cliff Moore, Peter Hollis and I were flown to the Y...
Baintha Brakk Attempt. Takeshi Nakazima, Kohtaro Toyoda, Takashi Kasai and I as leader set up Base Camp on June 17 at 4450 meters on the left side of the Choktoi Glacier. We started climbing on the 20th and established Advance Base at 4850 below t...
Carstenz Pyramid, South Face Variation. Between November 8 and 10 our party of 10 climbers completed an approximately 25-mile approach to the bottom of the South Face of the Pyramid. Thereafter, nine of our climbers summitted the mountain on Novem...
Chimney Rock, East Face of the North Peak. In September a four-man party, consisting of Don Jones Jr., Jim Wickwire, Fred Dunham and me, approached this peak from Salmon La Sac via the Cooper River Trail. A difficult class 4 gully system on the ea...
Die Jagd in der Schweiz. Two volumes, 297 and 295 pages, each volume containing 80 photographic illustrations, eight color plates and numerous sketches. Geneva: René Kister (French edition), and Winterthur: Gottfried Schmidt (German edition), 1951...
Dome Peak, Southwest Face. A thousand feet southwest of Northeast Dome Peak is a 2000-foot granite face which Manuel González and I climbed in a round-about manner. Hoping to ascend the central buttress on this face, we approached the face from th...
P.10,000+' and P.8580', Centennial Range, St. Elias Mountains. On April 25, Paul Claus flew Mimi McDougall and myself into the Centennial Range of the St. Elias mountains, landing at 7,200 feet on an unnamed glacier only two miles from the Canadia...
Mellizo Oeste or Steffan, Patagonia. Jure and Peter Skvarca have just made the first ascent of the Mellizo Oeste (West Twin), a lovely rock and ice climb of the Paine Principal type but on a larger scale. The third member of this expedition of the...
Peaks in Ancohuma Group, Cordillera Real. Our expedition was composed of Jesús Herrero, leader, Francisco Granero, Juan Ramón Portillo, Julio Armesto, Felix Alonso, José Luis Pérez, the Argentine Gabriel Cabrera and me. From Mina Candelaria we mov...
A 23-member expedition, led by Kim Kyu-tae and sponsored by the GyeongBuk Alpine Federation, left Korea on July 22 and arrived at base camp (4,200m), on the west side of the range, on the 27th. At 2:30 p.m. on August 11 seven members reached the...
Penny Icecap. On May 22, Rimas Gylys, Eric Laurin, and I were dropped off at the snout of the Coronation Glacier. Hauling our gear on sleds and snowshoes, we traveled the 25-mile length of the Coronation Glacier and crossed the southern tip of the...