FALL ON ICE, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, KananaskisOn February 17, 1980, Peter Haase (18) and Marvin Dean (17) were climbing the waterfalls at Heart Creek in the Kananaskis. Both of us had some experience at ice climbing, and I had taken several courses ...
Reports via London. The Alpine Journal for November 1947 reports an attempt on Rakaposhi by a party consisting of Messrs. C. H. Secord and H. W. Tilman and Herren Gyr and Kappeler, and the subsequent attainment by Messrs. Tilman and Shipton of the...
Sierra Nevada Section. Dave Riggs, Section Chair since 2006, transitioned to the AAC Board of Directors and deserves many thanks for his fine leadership these past years.The Section again hosted its popular annual “Climb-munity” gatherings, with t...
Manaslu. Our three-man expedition climbed Manaslu (8156 meters, 26,760 feet) by the normal route, the northeast face. We arrived at Base Camp at 15,100 feet on October 1. In comparison with my expedition to Manaslu three years ago, the route was s...
Austro-Argentine Atacama Expedition. Towering above the Puna de Atacama, already at an average of 13,000 feet, rise glacier-flecked volcanos to over 22,000 feet (Ojos del Salado, 22,591 feet). This naked salt and gravel desert, with its moonlike l...
Cayangate Group and Ausangate Attempt. A light expedition from Kraków climbed in the Cordillera Vilcanota, staying in a hotel in Ocongate. The approach from there to the foot of the mountains was made each time by truck and then with horses. Stayi...
SLIP ON SNOW, FALL INTO MOAT, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEUtah, Mount TimanogosOn July 7, 1982, Mark Gordon (14) was with a group of five companions (ages 11 to 22) when he slipped while descending a snow slope in a cliff area. He fell into ...
Mont Français, Anvers Island, Antarctic Peninsula. After a five-week passage through gales, fickle winds, heavy seas and finally a maze of sea ice in the mist, the steel ketch Northanger, specially designed as a mobile base in polar conditions, wa...
STRANDED, DEHYDRATION, SEVERE NOSE BLEED, CLIMBING ALONECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn June 25, 1984, Paul Truecki (19) was rescued from the west face of Leaning Tower. He suffered a severe nose bleed and subsequent heavy loss of blood that left hi...
Washington, Glacier Peak. On 30 July Mike Boyko (42) had been a member of a party that had made a successful ascent. On reaching the summit he asked permission of the leader to leave the party and to make a more rapid descent as he and another per...
FALL ON SNOW—LOSS OF CONTROL ON VOLUNTARY GLISSADECalifornia, Mount WhitneyOn April 10, Patrick Wang (27) and Martin Kozaczek (27) climbed the Mountaineer’s Route on Mount Whitney. On descent, around 14,000 feet, there is a steep traverse on a sno...
Mount Alberta’s North Face and Northeast Ridge. Mark Wilford’s remarkable solo climb of this route is described in a complete article earlier in this Journal.
FALL ON ROCKAlberta, Kananaskis Mountains, Mount LougheedOn July 31, 1988, Brian Wallace (29), Jeff Marshall, and Steve Demaio (23) were climbing the north face of Munt Lougheed. All were experienced climbers. Late in the afternoon, they were on a...
Menthosa, Women’s Ascent. A four-woman Japanese expedition led by Midori Morishita in August made the first ascent of the mountain by women. They established two high camps on the east ridge, by which the mountain was first climbed. Those who reac...
Paldor Peak Group, Attempts. Sabine Krol and I were in the Ganesh Himal from February 12-March 6. Our goal was to make first ascents on mixed rock and ice faces on climbed and unclimbed peaks in the Paldor Peak group. Unfortunately, we had a lot o...
Poincenot, El Sacrificio del Raton. At its best, alpinism challenges not the heights of distant mountain ranges, but the limits of human cognition, our ability to dream, create, and remember a reality that perhaps never existed anywhere but in our...
Dhiang (a.k.a. Kampur), First Ascent. Our group in the Nangma Valley was made up of Andrei Volkov, Andrei Mariev, Ivan Dusharin and myself. In early July, we traveled to the Nangma Valley in the eastern Karakoram. Though we were impressed by our s...
Tirokwa, West Face. We were a small expedition, two people, Jill Lawrence and I. Our objective was the west face of Mount Thor, but after hearing of the Japanese team’s bolting epic and subsequent failure, we turned to the west face of Tirokwa. Th...
Cho Oyu, West Side from the South, Ascents and Attempt, Post-Monsoon. On September 29, Russians Vyatcheslav Skripko, leader, Mikhail Mozhayev and Yevgeny Prilepa reached the summit of Cho Oyu, having climbed in one day from 7200 meters. On October...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE Washington, North Cascades National ParkIn early August, 1988, Thomas A. Thomas (23) was soloing the southeast face of Mount Triumph. He apparently fell from 1970 to 1820 meters. The cause of his fall is unknown. He wa...