Lotus Flower Tower. In July, Masakazu Fujiwara, Atsushi Saito and Eisaku Nozu completed a new route on the Lotus Flower Tower to the left of the 1968 McCarthy-Frost-Bill route. After fixing the first three pitches, they returned and did the route ...
FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT Washington, North Cascades National ParkOn May 24, 1987, Tom Wiesman (33) was fatally injured while descending Mixup Peak. He was struck on the head by a falling rock and fell an estimated 400 meters over ro...
Bhagirathi III, West Pillar, Alpine-Style. After arriving at Nandanban on September 10, Scott Flavelle and I spent until September 22 acclimatizing. From September 23 to October 2 we made the first alpine-style ascent of the west pillar of Bhagira...
Perserajôq, West Greenland. Italians made the second ascent of Perserajôq (2259 meters, 7412 feet). Rising on the Qioqe Peninsula at 71°25'N, 52°00'W, it is possibly the highest mountain on the west coast. The first ascent was made by Piero Ghigli...
PROTECTION FAILED, FALL ON ROCK California, Yosemite ValleyAt 0845 on June 20, 1989, Kent Kroeker (31) came to my residence saying that his climbing partner, Joe Kristy (43) had fallen on El Capitan and had broken his hip. I escorted him to the SA...
The Cobra, “From Afar,” Gorge of Despair, 1992. In July, 1992, Guy Keesee and I climbed this two-pitch route on The Cobra’s south face. It starts right of a huge alcove and climbs past three bolts into a crack. There is a bolted belay at the end o...
FAILURE TO COMMUNICATE, ILLNESSAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 20, 1991, Larry Sorenson (51) experienced what he believed was a recurrence of acute colitis at 14,000 feet on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley. Sorenson had also complained of gastro...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. For the past three years, my husband Haruyuki Endo and I have been engaged in special training to climb high mountains which combines normal advanced sportsman’s training and low-pressure, low-oxygen training in a depres...
Shivling, 1989. Our expedition from Italian Alpine Club’s Dueville Section was composed of leader Giacomo Albiero, Pierino Radin, Dr. Angelo Bogoni, Antonio Bortoli, Franco Brunello, Pierantonio Casagrande, Andrea Ercole, Sergio Grendene, Pietro P...
Overview. The year 2009 was bleak for mountaineering in Pakistan, as the security situation adversely affected the inflow of tourists. Sixty-three teams applied to attempt various peaks, but 18 withdrew their applications, and two teams that had b...
Mount Everest: A jigsaw puzzle, 20"×29", 1000 pieces. Heian International Inc. $7.95.Just ideal for the jaded armchair mountaineer, this magnificent panorama of the South Face with neighboring Lhotse dappled in alpenglow is from a photo by Shiro S...
Powell Peak Cirque, Early Retirement, and The Corporate Ladder In search of largely unexplored rock faces in RMNP, Bob Monet and I mutually concluded to venture to the east-facing cirque of Powell Peak. June 28 found us connecting a direct line to...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The Section has had another active year, hosting four evening meetings, a fall dinner meeting at Director Raffi Bedayn’s home, and our now traditional spring meeting in Yosemite. Broad membership participation in Clu...
Tilitso Attempt and Tragedy. Our international expedition under the leadership of Italian Francesco Santon was composed of eleven Italians, two Argentines, me from Czechoslovakia and three Sherpas. Our objective was the north buttress of Tilitso. ...
Hainabrakk East Tower, alpine-style link-up. Ko Imai and Hiroki Suzuki made the probable second alpine-style ascent of this ca 5,650m formation, linking the American route (Copp-Pennings, 2000) and the Slovak route (Kolarik-Rabatin, 2005) on July ...
AVALANCHE, SKIING ALONE—Wyoming, Grand Targhee Ski Resort. On March 20 Wayne Farrell (20) ski toured out of the patrolled area of Grand Targhee Ski Resort. While attempting the descent of a steep northwest facing hillside, Farrell was caught in a ...
FALL ON ROCK—LOWERING ERRORIdaho, City of Rocks National ReserveOn August 6, Emily Town (19) was leading an estimated 240 foot climb up Stripe Rock when she and her father Glen Town, who was lowering her down the rock, ran out of rope, according t...
Cirque of the Unclimbables, 1980. Much climbing continued to be done in 1980 in the Logan Mountains. The Lotus Flower Tower was climbed by mountaineers of various countries, but trash has been left in appalling quantities even on this climb. Bill ...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (5), Middle Teton Glacier— On August 13, Phillip Martin (21) and Charles E. Jones (21) were ascending the Duke Pinnacle Col. In the upper third of the couloir aslip occurred. Because of their weight difference (M...
RAPPEL FAILURECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyJohn Garten (24), John Nygaard (22), and Jeffrey Graves (22), all experienced 5.10 climbers, fell to their deaths on May 14 while descending the Nose on El Ca- pitan. The exact cause will never be known, bu...