Ascent of Mt. Robson. There have been numerous attempts on Mt. Robson since its last ascent in 1939. The difficulties range from the enormous bulk of the 12,972-foot mountain to the ever changing conditions of the upper ice cap. When this party be...
Kilimanjaro: The White Roof of Africa. Harald Lange. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1985. 176 pages, 63 pages of color photographs, black and white drawings, photographs and maps, bibliography. $24.95.This book is a major addition to the English-langu...
Yale Mountaineering Club. During the academic year 1951-52 the Yale Mountaineering Club continued its program of rock climbing instruction at Mt. Carmel and the Shawangunks, and snow and ice climbing trips were made to the White Mountains and Adir...
The Sherpa and the Snowman, by Chas. Stonor, with a foreword by Sir John Hunt. 206 pages, 38 pictures. Hollis & Carter: London, 1955. Price, 18 s.To those serious students of the Himalayan mystery this book may not contain much that is new. Ma...
Arwa Spires, first ascents of north face and the central and west summits. The 6,193m-high granite top of the Arwa Spires was first climbed in 2000 by two Scotsmen, Andy and Pete Benson. They reached the East Summit via the east ridge, but three a...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, PARTY SEPARATED, PROBABLE THOUGHT PROCESS IMPAIRMENTWyoming, Tetons, Grand TetonOn September 16 at 1100, Russ Soderlund (40) was climbing the Owen-Spalding route on the Grand Teton with a friend, Gretchen Rupp. Sode...
On Some of Gertrude Bell’s Routes in the OberlandMiriam E. O’BrienIN 1901 and 1902 Miss Gertrude Bell and her guides, Heinrich and Ulrich Fuhrer, made a great many remarkable climbs in the Oberland. They were, of course, much more remarkable at th...
Dariyo Sar, first ascent; Pt. 6,250m, first ascent. Unreported from 2005 are the first ascents of two peaks on the Baltar Glacier. After an unsuccessful attempt to reach the northwest spur of Rakaposhi as part of a larger Italian expedition, Renzo...
Mount Moran, 1922-1962Leigh N. OrtenburgerWith sections written by James P. McCarthy, Pete Sinclair, John Hudson, Don Anderson, Fred Beckey and Ted VaillIn the forty years which have now passed since the first ascent of Mount Moran, judged by Fryx...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INADEQUATE RELAY,EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Bishops TerraceKeith Kramer (22) was planning on climbing Bishops Terrace with a new climbing partner who had little to no experience. Kramer did...
East Face of Fitz RoyMiguel Angel Gallego, Club Montañero de Murcia, SpainAT THE SOUTHERN tip of the American continent, the moutains of southern Patagonia offer climbers some of the greatest possibilities for adventure in the whole world. In my o...
The Wildest Dream: The Biography of George Mallory. Peter and Leni Gillman. Seattle: Mountaineers Books, 2000. 329 pages. $27.95.Since the discovery of George Mallory’s body in 1999 high on the flanks of Mt. Everest, a firestorm of media has refue...
Point JAMES, east face; Nazomi Peak, southeast face; Triple Crown, southwest ridge from the west. Natasha Sebire and I spent five weeks in the Miyar during August and September. From the standard base camp below Castle Peak, we concentrated our ef...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Number of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942— 256— 231— 019— 2196047— 464— 1237— 81...
HYPOTHERMIA, DEHYDRATION, WEATHER Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 18,1994, Paul Laeremans (39) and Ingrid Baeyens (38) of the German AMICAL expedition, along with other members of their expedition, began descending the West Buttress route from 14,300...
Avalanche Fatalities in Himalayan MountaineeringDavid M. McClungIntroduction. Avalanches are probably the greatest single cause of fatalities in Himalayan mountaineering and the avalanches as well as the fatal accidents they cause have their own d...
Mount Forel. The second Greenland expedition of Nihon University was led by Hiroshi Nakajima. They traveled from Angmagssalik to Kungmiut, the innermost village of the fjord, and then on to Sioralik. After a sledge trip of 25 days, they arrived at...
FAULTY USE OF CRAMPON—FALL ON SNOW Alaska, Mount McKinleyThe Spanish expedition “Lleida McKinley ’96” had eleven climbers in the group, including Juanjo Garra (32). They began their ascent of the West Buttress on May 19. On June 1 at 1300, while a...
Everest, uncommon events on standard routes. In the spring a Greek expedition sent one climbing team to the north side and another to the south to carry to the top their flags of the 2004 Greek Summer Olympic Games. They were the first Greek exped...
ELIZABETH COWLES PARTRIDGEQuite likely her many friends have quite different memories of Betsy, for she was exuberant in her enjoyment of many things. Mountains were her consuming passion—but only one of several. People really interested her the m...