GUY MATTHEW ANDREWS1959-1980I first met Guy in 1975 just after his 16th birthday. His mother had arranged a climbing lesson as a birthday gift and I was glad for the day outside and the extra money. These chance meetings we have with people someti...
Manaslu and Dhaulagiri, Ascents. Ed Viesturs and his Finnish partner, Veikka Gustafsson, surmounted Manaslu (8163m) and then Dhaulagiri I (8167m), the world’s eighth- and seventh-highest mountains, in one month of climbing. They had no Sherpas, no...
Saipal Attempt. Six Swiss and two Frenchmen led by Denis Bertholet failed to climb Saipal. They reached 5200 meters on October 20 on the north face and 5800 meters on October 22 on the northeast ridge but had to give up because of deep snow and av...
Saraghrar, First Ascent of the West Wall. The Shizuoka Tohan Club Expedition was led by Reisuke Akiyama. It made the first ascent of the west wall of Saraghrar. Having got through the perpendicular rock faces and ridges, Yukio Katsumi, Minoru Naka...
Antarctic Peninsula brief summary. The Antarctic Peninsula was surprisingly quiet this year, with only two expeditions attempting mountain objectives. During November and December the Omega Foundation conducted its fifth Antarctic expedition in as...
Tocllaraju, Ishinca. Our expedition climbed Tocllaraju after having failed on Ranrapalca. Glacial conditions were very different from those found by the Swiss in 1963, on which we had based our plans. We found on Ranrapalca a ridge too thin to sup...
FALL ON ICE, ROPE SEVERED ON JAGGED ROCKSPennsylvania, Toby Creek, Buttermilk FallsPolice in Luzerne County say Luke Wolfgang (age not reported) fell 30-40 feet when his rope was cut on jagged rocks as he tried to climb the Buttermilk Falls area o...
Cho Aui. Cho Aui lies on the Tibetan-Nepalese frontier west of Cho Oyu. The leader of this ten-man Himalayan Association of Japan expedition was Hiroshi Yajima. After approaching via Xigar, they got to Base Camp near the Gyabrag Glacier at 5800 me...
Hraundrangi, in Öxnadal. Two members of the Icelandic Air Ground Rescue Team, Finnur Eyjolfsson and Sigurdur Waage, accompanied by Lieut. Nicholas B. Clinch, USAF, accomplished the first ascent of Hraundrangi, August 5-6, 1956. The peak stands nea...
Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboos, 1993. Spanish Catalans, Marc Arbós and Jaume Clotet, climbed a 600-meter-high new route in the center of the east face of Snowpatch Spire, which they rated at 6a, A3. They were on the face for three days and two nights, ...
FALLING ROCKNew Hampshire, North Conway, Cathedral LedgeAt the end of May 1991, two climbers were standing on the ledge below The Book of Solemnity on Cathedral Ledge. One of the climbers was struck on his helmet by a rock; the helmet was split bu...
P 6903, Kunlun. Our expedition had as general leader Dr. Chotaro Naka-jima, as climbing members Hironori Ito, Naoki Mohri, Hidetomo Shirai and Masaharu Mutsuyoshi and me as climbing leader. The original plan was to start from Kashi, go east via Ye...
Absaroka RangeA probable first ascent of Mt. Index in N. W. Park County was made on September 24th by G. Haas, J. Makowski, P. D. Smith, from a timberline camp on the N. W. side. An involved route led from the saddle connecting with Pilot Peak, an...
Mount Evans, Various Ascents. On August 8, Greg Crouch and I climbed Captain Calamari (six pitches, 5.9+ R A1), which lies to the left of the steep gully system that splits the Black Wall amphitheater (right of Roofer Madness) on Mount Evans. The ...
SLIP ON SNOW, INADEQUATE FOOTWEARAlaska, Mount McKinleyIn June, 1993, I was on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley with six fellow Californians. Three days into the trip we were camped at the base of Ski Hill (7,700 feet). We had a dug-in kitchen ...
Pumori, west face, new route. A five-man expedition comprising four Swiss and one American split into two groups with three of the team attempting the south ridge and the other two, Swiss guides, Ueli Bühler and Ueli Steck, opting for the west fac...
Uli Biaho Tower, South Buttress, 1989. In late May of 1989, Nick Craddock, Paul Rogers, Murray Judge and I arrived at Base Camp at the confluence of the Trango and Baltoro Glaciers. We were to attempt the southeast face of the Uli Biaho Tower, usi...
RAPPEL FAILURE—INADEQUATE ANCHOR SETUP, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTAlberta, Lake Louise, Rack of the Lake CragOn October 6, a climber was being lowered by her partner in order to retrieve her protection slings after leading the route “Top Gun” (5.7). Aft...
Gaugiri, second and third ascents by a new route. The 6,110m Gaugiri in upper Mustang, first ascended in 2002 via the southwest ridge by Peter Ackroyd and Jim Frush, as noted above, received second and third ascents in 2003. On September 8, Josep ...
Mt. Shand. The peak which rises to about 13,000 ft. ten miles S.E. of Mt. Hayes in the Alaska Range has been officially named Mt. Shand by the Board on Geographic Names. Temporarily called Mt. Bagley, the peak was climbed on 12 August 1941 by the ...