USSR Pamir Camp. The 1987 season was wet and snowy, worse than the 1986 season. Pik Lenina saw the brunt of the activity, especially in early August. Lenina’s Lipkin Cliffs route was skied by a French group from Lyon. However, they lost skis and a...

Mount Foraker Attempt. Bill Coyle, Brian Okonek and I hoped to make on alpine-style ascent of Foraker’s northeast ridge via Mount Crosson. On June 27 we skied to the base of the southeast ridge of Crosson. The next day we climbed the ridge to 9900...

Colorado, Sangre de Cristo Range, Crestone Needle—Cleve McCarty, Tony Mueller (20), Rodney McWhinney and Robert Kulstad (27), Rip Collins (31) and Dick Wink set up a base camp at the foot of Crestone Needle (14,191 ft.) on August 23, 1954. Only tw...

Arches National Park, Miss Rosa Coldfield. The tower is the first landform south of the Phallus and was soloed in August (5.8 A2, 140 feet) by Dave Gloudemans via the south face. Tower of Babel, The Secret Journey (IV 5.5 A3+, four pitches, 550 fe...

New York, Shawangunks. On December 1st a student at the State University College in New Paltz was hiking with friends in the Trapps area. They followed a footpath to the top to enjoy the view. For the return the student elected to scramble down th...

Nun. Our expedition consisted of Austrians Willi Wehinger, Walter Bell, Kurt Kirchler, Götz Mayr and me as leader and German Hermann Huber. After a number of delays on the approach, we reached Tongul in the Suru valley on August 5. The porters wer...

Jannu. A New Zealand expedition led by Peter Farrell made an unsuccessful attempt on Jannu (25,294 feet) by a new route on the north face. On October 22 Farrell and Brian Pooley reached 24,000 feet.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club

FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount YamnuskaWhile leading the third pitch of Red Shirt on July 30,1994, Andrew F. (50) fell about nine meters, striking the belay ledge with his head. His helmet fell off, and ...

Musembeah Peak, Northeast Buttress. Two of the more alpine faces in the southern portion of the Wind River Range, the north and east faces of Musembeah, have been completely ignored by climbers. On September 11, Dick Ross, Jerry Fuller, and I foun...

Exploration of the High-Altitude Desert of Rupshu and Ascent of Mata, Southeast Ladakh. Our members were Chetan Bhattacharji, Rajbans Talwar, Vijay Jung Thapa, Ms. Rupa Dutta, Ms. Rohini Prakash, Ms. Seema Mishra, Gautam Das, Rano Gupta, Shantanu ...

Aconcagua, Ascents and Tragedy. It was reported that Lucien Berardini, who led the first ascent of the 3000-meter South Face in 1954, returned to Aconcagua in January with Hugues Beauzille to repeat the route. Arriving unacclimatized, and finding ...

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTWest Virginia, New River Gorge National RiverDuring the evening of June 13, a female (25) was climbing Biohazard (5.10a) a 65’ trad route located on the Fern Creek Party Wall. She was almost at the top of the rou...

Bighorn Peak, Northeast Cirque, Bighorn Mountains. In August, 1977, David Roberts and I spent a week climbing in the east-facing cirque that lies between the summits of Bighorn and Darton Peak. Just north of a prominent gully that marks the wester...

Denali National Park, Mountaineering Summary. The 1997 climbing season for Mount McKinley and most of the Alaska Range started with mountaineers making unsuccessful summit bids in the chilly month of December and concluded in mid-July. Thirty-seve...

Nieves y Riscos Merideños by R.A. Romero Muñoz-Tebar (Caracas, 1976). Along with Carlos Chalbaud’s Expediciones a la Sierra Nevada de Mérida (Caracas, 1959), this is one of the best sources of information on the history and routes of the Mérida pe...

Galya Cibitoke, Alexander Gukov, Sergei Kondrashkin, Viktor Koval, and Valery Shamalo from St. Petersburg arrived in Kathmandu at the end of February and from there reached the north side of Cholatse via a trek over the Chola Pass. Their goal was ...

Cascade Canyon, The Faultline. This short route, first climbed on July 31, 1978 by Tom and Barry Rugo, ascends the very steep buttress immediately west of and below Icefloe Lake. Some moderate climbing led from the scree at the base of the face to...

Shiprock, Various Ascents. In January, I soloed Parallel Reality (IV A5+) and On a Tear (VI A5+) on the south face of Sextant Spire. Both routes are extreme aid routes that went in without bolts, and both have excellent groundfall potential.On the...

FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF NUT Colorado, Lumpy RidgeOn July 15, Dave Trout (21) and Gary Buckham (19) started climbing a route on the Book, believed to be just west of the Kors route. Buckham had run the rope out as far as he could in the first lead...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION–PULLED OUTCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn September 13 around 1720, Kris Alageswaram (age unknown) was leading pitch number 26 on the Nose Route of El Capitan. At a height of 15 to 20 feet above the be...