In good weather, the southwest face of the Grand Teton shines in the last rays of evening light. In bad weather, the fetch that allows this nice light also allows storms to crash into the exposed and overhanging walls. The Tetons’ best rock ...
Matt Hartman and Jake Tipton climbed a possible new route on the north side of this prominent buttress along the approach to the Cirque of the Towers. The two climbed the left side of the north face in five pitches (III 5.11a/b C1), and after a...
Ben Hoiness and Brooks Munyer found a fine four-pitch line on a possibly unclimbed granite buttress above Hairpin Lake in the Hell Roaring Plateau area of the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness Area. Classy Girls (5.11a/b) takes a line of cracks ...
Waterhole #3 was the first route to be put up solo on the Diamond (Walker, 1971). I first attempted to free the route in 2011, going ground-up, onsight. It looked like there were small cracks on the route that would take gear, but I kept climbi...
In the spring of 2010, Will Butler took me to the Black Wall on Mt. Evans to show me the old aid line Undertow (IV 5.10 A4). When we rapped in, I couldn’t believe this gorgeous dihedral system in the middle of the Black Wall had never been...
In 2008, Josh Thompson and Glen Griscom put up the first route on the slightly chossy-looking buttresses just north of the Black Wall, known as the Tan Buttresses. They called their route Noth’n but a Good Time (400’, II 5.11- R). Later that s...
The Camp Bird Road area above Ouray, famous for climbs such as the Ribbon, Bird Brain Boulevard, Talisman, and countless others, has seen a recent burgeoning of bold new mixed climbs. In January 2011, Steve House and Hayden Kennedy establish...
In April 2012, Jonathan Schaffer and partners established two new routes along the North Rim. The first, Cloak Dagger (III 5.10c, Schaffer-Zeilman), takes an independent line right of Comic Relief. Starting on the Comic Relief ledge, the rout...
Jeff Popko and Chris Righter put up a six-pitch route, the Quota (750’, 5.12a), below the Cedar Point lookout. The crux second pitch avoids a loose chimney with bolt-protected face climbing, and then turns a huge roof. From information supp...
In the summer of 2012, Chris Righter and I were lured into establishing a new route on Wild Bill’s Wall, a relatively unexplored and unclimbed part of the canyon. After an initial recon, we decided upon an unclimbed section of rock approxima...
In the fall of 2009, Jeremy Aslaksen and I climbed a new route on the south face of Kingfisher in the Fisher Towers. We called the route Weird Science [AAJ 2010] and made a pact to see if we could do new routes on all five of the main Fish...
Over a handful of weekends from June to August 2012, I tricked three unsuspecting victims into making the 5,000’ vertical trek up to Lone Peak Cirque to establish a new route we called the Wonderette (500’, 5.12). The idea for the route was ...
In October 2012, Fisher Towers veterans Joe Forrester and Jeremy Aslaksen climbed a new variation to the Forrest-Briggs route on the Citadel: the Mugacki Variation (V 5.3 A2+). The route starts at the southernmost base of the tower and avoids ...
On October 22, 2012, Chris Kalous freed a wild new route, Ivory Tower (110m, 5.13b) on southeastern Utah’s iconic Castleton Tower. Ivory Tower climbs four long pitches up a sharp arête and face on the southeast spine of Castleton, to the rig...
At the end of our visit to Patagonia, Tadej Kriselj and I used a short window of good weather to climb a new route on El Mocho. At first, we followed the approximate line of the Elorza-Moises attempt, then followed splitter cracks of all si...
On June 25, 2011, my wife, Betsy Winston, and I arrived in Constable Pynt to celebrate our honeymoon by climbing and exploring in Liverpool Land. Because Hurry Fjord was still full of pack ice, and could not be crossed by boat, we were forced ...
After three days of rest following a new route on Fitz Roy, Tadej Kriselj and I made a fair-means ascent of the southeast ridge of Cerro Torre, following the Kennedy-Kruk line with the Lama-Ortner variation (900m, 5.12b A2 75?). We used an...
After climbing the North Tower of Paine [see Chile section of Climbs and Expeditions], I was joined by Tadej Kriselj from Kamnik, Slovenia. When the morning bus dropped us in El Chaltén, the weather was perfect. We repacked our bags and headed to ...
Cerro Murallón (2,656m) rises above the Southern Patagonia Ice Cap, along the Argentina-Chile frontier. Although it has received several new routes in the past decade, including the first ascent of the southeast pillar in 2012, the peak h...
In early April 2012, Chris Weidner and I linked up up two of the biggest peaks in Red Rock, in a day, both via new routes climbed onsight. We began in the crack system 100m to the left of the Warrior on Cactus Flower Tower and climbed 120m befor...