Ryan Silsby, 25, died in a fall in Blodgett Canyon in mid-August. Silsby had parked at the Blodgett Canyon Trailhead, planning a two-day trip. His vehicle was found on September 2 with his camping gear still inside it, and his body was discovered ...
All photos by Frank Kretschmann / Funst.de I started dreaming of climbing a new route through the steepest part of the north face of the Eiger in 2002. I joined Steph Siegrist on his new project La Vida es Silbar (Siegris...
The Sierra was unseasonably warm in early October. With a few days at our disposal, Pete Fasoldt and I hiked up to the Incredible Hulk to find the usually crowded cliff, and indeed all of Little Slide Canyon, totally empty. Even the marmots were s...
During the past few winters of climbing in the Bottomless Pit area on Pikes Peak’s north side, I spotted a few crack systems on the Corinthian Column (ca 13,500’) that looked interesting for potential summer rock routes. However, upon closer inspe...
After spending five days in the backcountry, my brother Jon Schutz, my girlfriend Julie Tran, and I succeeded in putting up a new line on the southwest side of Kettle Dome (9,451’) in Kings Canyon. As far as we could tell nobody had climbed this w...
Panther Peak (9,006’) is a small peak in Sequoia National Park, located along the ridge connecting Moro Rock and Alta Peak. Its steep south side, with two prominent buttresses, is displayed nicely for hikers on the popular High Sierra Trail. To my...
Cherubim Dome (10,440’) is a beautiful rock face towering above the Valhalla and Hamilton lakes, just east of Angel Wings. While researching its established rock climbs, I was able to find only one route, up the south-southwest face: Archangel (IV...
On March 21 the Mineral County Sheriff (Nevada) received a 911 call from Brandon Reiff (33) of Reno, who reported that he had broken his leg in a fall near Matterhorn Peak (12,280’). His 911 call was transferred to the Mono County Sheriff, but the...
Alaska is a land of superlatives. It’s big, wild, and hairy—and, as the joke goes, so are the girls of Talkeetna. I’d heard so much about Alaska that I knew sooner or later I’d end up there. And I did, after Twid Turner and I hatched a plan to cli...
On April 2, Carlos Flores and I made the first ascent of the Life You Can Save (350m, 13 pitches, 5.12d) on the north face of Pico Independencia in Parque La Huasteca, just west of Monterrey.The route first required three weeks of preparation, alo...
I felt super solid. The route (appropriately named Harder Than It Looks) was comfortably within my difficulty range and well-suited to my strengths: delicate and slabby at the bottom, with a fun-looking undercling near the top.I had just completed...
In 2006, on a climbing expedition to China, Andy Tyson and his team found themselves on the wrong side of a raging river 80 miles from their objective. Not trusting their driver, who insisted the team needed to ford the river, Andy’s expedition ma...
During a spell of excellent weather from May 18 to May 31, Max Fisher and I returned to the Upper Chilkat area of the Coast Mountains, where we’d visited a year prior (AAJ 2015). The area is located about seven miles west of Mt. Foster and spans...
The Tilman 2015 Sail and Climb Expedition had two main aims. The first was to climb new routes from my boat Dodo’s Delight as I sailed it down the west coast of Greenland. The second was to bring the boat back across the Atlantic to Scotland a...
My wife and I, both 28, were climbing a popular multi-pitch sport route, Prime Rib of Goat (5.9), in the summer of 2012. A group had caught up to us, and we allowed them to pass at one of the generous ledges en route. Since this was a long climb, ...
Traumatic brain injury (TBI) is caused by the exertion of a sudden force on the head and brain that causes an abrupt back and forth motion. An impact of this nature can fracture the skull, bruise the brain, tear blood vessels, and destroy neurons....
Can one guarantee a perfect adventure? It seems an oxymoron, at least by Tilman’s edict that if the outcome is certain there’s no point in starting a journey. Adventure requires uncertainty; uncertainty requires un-guarantee-ability. And yet, mix ...
On May 16, after several days of rain in Yosemite Valley, my partner and I went to do a warm-up climb on Manure Pile Buttress. As it was the first day of good weather in a while, the cliffs were busy, and all the routes were occupied except for an...
On February 14 a climber (19) fell off the sport climb Birdland (5.10+), hitting a wide ledge about 20 feet off the ground. I (Adam Hosterman, 30) was climbing nearby and saw the accident. A friend of the climber scrambled to the ledge from an adj...
After a visit to the Kasiri region, Nick Berry, John da Silva, and I traveled via Palcoma to Laguna Jachcha Khasiri (4,710m), where we established a base camp. On June 19, leaving without a map in significant mist and with little idea where to hea...