Ogling photos at home in Colorado, on the plane ride down to Patagonia, and even from a vantage point at Niponino camp, Max Barlerin was doing his best to convince Mike Lukens and me there was a new line to try on Fitz Roy. Just one day back from ...
El Chaltén is a vast playground where the possibilities for new routes are still infinite. So when Dani Ascaso and Santi Padrós showed up at the hostel where Jerôme Sullivan and I were staying and told us they had the exact same plan as us for a...
Although there were hardly any accidents in the area this past season, one of the incidents unfortunately resulted in the death of Argentine climber Iñaki Cousirrat. He was hit by rockfall while attempting a route on the east face of Cerro Fit...
Jason Thompson and I received a Mugs Stump Award and a Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Award to attempt the unclimbed south face of Hathi Parbat (6,727m). Unfortunately, because of its proximity to the Chinese border, a permit was denied, and instead w...
In August, Struan Chisholm, Sam Newmark, Calum McLellan, and I arrived in Leh and headed to a maze of unclimbed peaks brought to light by the 2009 Kyoto Zanskar expedition (AAJ 2012). We arrived with 10kg of homemade flapjacks, some iced-tea powde...
In August and September, a team comprising Felix Criado, Adrian Legarra, Txus Lizarraga, Ekaitz Maiz, and Alex Txikon (all Spain), together with Daniele Nardi (Italy), climbed a new line up a pillar on the northwest ridge of Thalay Sagar (6,904m),...
Cerro San Lorenzo’s southwest face, showing: (A) Cumbre Buscaini. (1) Haba-tar. (2) Buscaini-Metzeltin Route. Photo: Groupe Militaire de Haute MontagneMany climbers throughout the years have turned their eyes to one of the...
The east face and main summit of San Lorenzo. (1) No Fiesta, the 2015 Slovenian line, with a high point at the junction with the Sudafricana Route on the east ridge at about 3,450m. (2) Sudafricana Route (1986) to summit. Photo by Rolando Garibott...
In November, my partner Domen Petrovčič and I, along with Rok Kurnčič, Boštjan Mikuž, and Dejan Koren (all Slovenian), decided to go to Cerro San Lorenzo. Our main objective was, until our arrival, a new route on the east face. The planned time fo...
In September 2015, Pedro Binfa and Marcelo Mascareño climbed a new route in winter up the south face of Cerro Sahne Nuss. The climb contained steep snow, ice, drytooling, and some aid, taking a prominent right-angling gash to the summit ridge, whi...
On June 22, 2015, French alpinist and Bolivian resident Anne Bialek, accompanied by Bolivian UIAGM guides Hugo Ayaviri Quispe and Rolando Tarqui Choque, made the second known female ascent of the south face, via Directa Boliviana, an important var...
For the last four decades the Shyok Valley has been closed to trekkers and mountaineers, due to its proximity to the Line of Control with China. Also, the Shyok River is in spate from July to September, and movement up the valley impractical. Howe...
On June 21, after 18 months of planning, Andrew Basford, Katie Farrell, Matthew Fuller, Steve Hutton, Katie McKay, Dan Slome, and I left London for the East Karakoram, our aim to summit an unclimbed 6,000er via the largely unexplored upper southea...
From late July to September, Anastasija Davidova and I spent 35 days in the Tetleh Nala, one of the three main offshoots of the Raru Valley. Prior to our visit there had only been one reported climbing party here, the 2011 Imperial College (U.K.) ...
Mark Thomas and I (U.K.) attempted the unclimbed northeast ridge of Nanda Devi East (7,434m) in the autumn. Nanda Devi East has only one existing route to the summit: the southeast ridge, climbed by a Polish team in 1939, by far the hardest prewar...
On September 29, Crystal Davis-Robbins and I climbed a new route on a possibly unclimbed sub-summit east of Castle Peak. After filling our bellies with chai and momos in Shukto, the last village up the Miyar Nullah, we loaded horses with 10 days o...
Standing on the summit of Odgsal I during the 2013 Indian Air Force Rongdo expedition (AAJ 2014), our attention was captured by a huge glaciated valley to the east: the Kunzang. Locals told us this had never been traversed. In 2015 we planned to e...
During September and November, Rodrigo Chabalgoity, Pablo Cuadra, Jacob Perkinson, Christian Steidle, and I, along with 17 NOLS students, completed an expedition in Jeinimeni National Reserve in the Aysén Region. On October 17, our group made the ...
In August I led a small team of Alpine Club members to the Korlomshe Tokpo, which had received only one known previous visit. In 2012, Kamikazu Sakamoto’s non-climbing expedition entered this valley but ventured no higher than 5,100m to photograph...
On March 20, Cristian Mono Gallardo, Jorge Chispa Sepulveda, Favian Zandoval, and I reached the area called La Junta in Cochamó. Our goal was to reach an area called Cerro Torrecillas, a little-known glaciated zone that I reconnoitered with aerial...