Pouring rain, nightmarish mosquitos, tussock bog–hopping with 90-pound packs—the struggle was real when Cigdem Milobinski, Nick Pappas, Todd Torres, and I began our approach into the Arrigetch Peaks on July 2. But the objectives we’d dreamed of...
On June 12, guide Michael Horst of Alpine Ascents International contacted rangers by radio to say he was attending to a patient with frostbite at 17,200 feet. The patient was stable and non-critical but had frostbitten all 10 fingers while setting...
On May 11, at approximately 5:30 p.m., rangers received a call from K2 Aviation saying that one of their pilots had spotted an SOS stamped in the snow above 747 Pass (between Mt. Dickey and Mt. Bradley). Two climbers were present at the SOS and wa...
On May 5, Javier Callupan, a 39-year-old male from Argentina, was observed moving from the 11,200-foot camp to the 14,200-foot camp on the West Buttress. On May 6 he moved from the 14,200-foot camp to high camp at 17,200 feet. All other parties at...
Around sunset on November 7, Angela Uys (26) was at an anchor on Snake Dike (III 5.7), preparing to rappel. Her tether system was not effectively clipped to the anchor, and when she weighted the system it failed. She fell approximately 500 feet to...
In August, Jenny Abegg, Alix Morris, Forest Woodward, and Graham Zimmerman visited the Leaning Towers of the Purcell Wilderness Conservancy Provincial Park. They made the arduous approach over two days, hiring horse packers to carry gear for the...
Jakoceri (ca 5,800m; ca 5,900m on Google Earth) is a southwesterly outlier of Chachacomani (6,074m) and is characterized by a long, corniced summit ridge. Pietro Sella, Antonio Zavattarelli (Padre Topio), and I learned about this mountain by chanc...
It was 2 a.m. on May 25 at the base camp for ascents of Chachacomani from the west. Jules Jenner and I woke up excited: It was the first time we would attempt a new route in the Cordillera Real. We had left the small village of Peñas, where we'd b...
Although exhausted from a season in Patagonia, we still had something left in the tank and were hungry for big alpine faces. Nico Navarrete and I headed to Bolivia in mid-March. La Paz is already a couple of thousand meters higher than Chaltén or ...
Ever since we first saw photos of Talung’s north wall, this mountain had been very much on our minds. There is no doubt the north-northwest pillar of Talung (7,349 meters) was one of the most aesthetic and logical unclimbed lines anywhere in the H...
Spanish climber and mountain runner Kilian Jornet planned to attempt a record-breaking speed ascent and descent of the north side of Everest during the monsoon period. He was accompanied to Tibet by fellow Spaniard Jordi Tosas and French filmmaker...
Looking north from Karun Pir (Pass) at an unnamed and probably unclimbed peak of around 6,000m (left) and Pregar, with the two routes attempted on its south face in 2016. Photo by Peter ThompsonAiden Laffey (Ireland) and I hoped to make the first ...
Max Ten and I established two new routes from the Kara-su Valley in July. First, in order to acclimatize, we climbed the northwest face of Lomo (4,750m). This shale mountain lies immediately south of Pik 4,810m and can be climbed from the pass bet...
On July 18, Ryan Evans and I climbed what we believe to be a new route on the Arctic Lake Wall in Sequoia National Park, to the west of Mt. Russell. Located on the western summit of the Arctic Lake Wall, the route begins in highly featured orange ...
On the morning of February 8, Jacob “Jake” Lloyd, an experienced mountaineer from Utah, was climbing alone on the Jamapa Glacier, the normal route up the 18,491-foot mountain. At approximately 18,200 feet, a snow bridge collapsed and Jake fell abo...
On April 21, after six weeks of watching from a distance as a gigantic storm system pummeled the Alaska Range, Jess Roskelley and I saw a forecast for a weather window long enough to fly into the Kichatna Spires. With our primary objective out of ...
Kei Taniguchi and I established base camp for our attempt on Pandra after traveling three days by bus and eight days on foot from Kathmandu. In the fall of 2002, three Danes made the first ascent of Pandra via the south face (TD-), recording GPS m...
Sergio Martín de Santos and I arrived in Leh on June 30, and after acclimatizing near town we headed to Stok Kangri (6,150m), which we climbed on July 6 via the normal route. This completed our acclimatization and the following day we walked up to...
On September 5, Jeff Gicklhorn, Patrick O'Donnell, and I free climbed a new route on the Incredible Hulk. Jeff and I had envisioned this route in 2014, and we took two calendar years to equip it, making many short weekend trips spread out over thr...
Jaime Cavazos on Super Cruiser, the short, overhanging route where the author fell. The shelf where the author first landed is visible in front of the belayer. Photo by John Hogge On October 8, at the start of good cli...