Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile—Central Andes, Yeguas Heladas and Nevado Juncal, 1991

Yeguas Heladas and Nevado Juncal, 1991. I joined Frenchmen Patrick Gabarrou, François Marsigny, Fred Vimal and Italian Giorgio Passino in November 1991 and together we traveled up the valley to the usual Juncal Base Camp at the foot of the glacier...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, P 19,200 Between Bualtar and Barpu Glaciers

P 19,200 Between Bualtar and Barpu Glaciers. Our expedition was composed of Colonel Richard H. Hardie, Captain John James F. Farquharson, Lieutenant Peter Robson, Lance Corporal Anthony Williams, Troopers Stephen Williams, Simon Prince and Ulrich ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, River Road Area, Dolofright, Spring 1994

River Road Area, Dolofright, Spring 1994. Along River Road, between Moab and Castle Valley and above Big Bend between Mile Markers 7 and 8, rises Dolomite Spire. It was first climbed with aid by Layton Kor, Joy Kor and Kordell Kor. It received its...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Everest Traverse

Everest Traverse. The Chinese Mountaineering Association, the Japanese Alpine Club and the Nepal Mountaineering Association cooperated to organize a joint expedition to traverse Mount Everest from both north to south and from south to north. Shi Z...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Angel Wings, Just a Rock in the Park

Angel Wings, Just A Rock In The Park. In June, Richard Leversee, Ron Felton and I completed a new route, Just A Rock In The Park (V-VI 5.10 A3+), on this large face in Sequoia National Park. Wc had decided to “go light” and forego the hammocks or ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche, Poor Position, Apparent Lack of Knowledge of Snowpack, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Snow Dome

AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, APPARENT LACK OF KNOWLEDGE OF SNOWPACKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Snow DomeOn March 20, 1993, three experienced mountaineers set out from Highway 93 near the Columbia Icefield to climb “Slipstream,” a serious waterfal...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Eastern Garhwal, Kalanka, Attempt

Kalanka, attempt. We arrived in India on August 24 with permission to visit and climb the remote north side of this 6931m peak during the months of September and October. Although we had official permission from the Indian Mountaineering Foundatio...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Kumaon and Garhwal, Nandabhannar, Nandakhani, Shallang Dhura

Nandabhannar, Nandakhani, Shallang Dhura. There has been considerable interest in a pass in Kumaon first crossed in 1926 by Hugh Ruttledge’s porters. An Indian team explored its existence in 1988. This year a team from Bombay led by Divyesh Muni r...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Wild Basin Area, Various Ascents

Wild Basin Area, Various Ascents. Bruce Miller and Clay Wadman climbed a new route, Mil-Wad (5.12), on Mt. Alice in 1994. Jim Bodenhamer and partner freed the old 5.9 A3 Central Pillar at 5.11c in 1997. Also in Wild Basin, Jeff Thornburg and partn...