California, Yosemite National Park, El Capitan. On 30 May James McCarthy (35), Doug Tompkins, and Sandy Bill started the Nose of El Capitan during the afternoon. It was to be a fairly leisurely assault, as they did not expect to be down until perh...
Peak 4897, Sultan Basin. In May this sharply crested peak three miles north-northeast of Mount Stickney was climbed by Glen Watson, Preston Bonney, Monte Haun, Bob Hall and Kenn Carpenter. The South Fork of the Sultan River was reached by descendi...
Manang Mountaineering School. The 11th course began on August 13. This year there were three Nepalese instructors: Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa, Ang Tsering Sherpa and Musul Kazi Tamang. We Slovene instructors were Alenka Jamnik (f), Darja Jenko (f), Tomaz...
Hunza. Following a visit to the area by Pete Thompson and me in 1988, I returned for a second visit in 1989 with Andy Trull, Chris Lloyd-Rogers, Hilary Fouweather and Mick Wilcock. Our original intention of climbing in the Snow Lake area of the Hi...
Fairweather, Attempt on Southeast Ridge. The personnel of our expedition finally was made up of Leonard Cook, Mark Fields, Rich Bloom and Chris Carpenter. (I was injured fighting a fire with the Anchorage Fire Department and had to drop out.) Our ...
FALL ON MIXED ROCK AND SNOW AND CLIMBING UNROPED— British Columbia, Mt. Assiniboine Park, Mt. Assiniboine North Face. R. Chisholm (36), a competent climber, and L. Armitage were climbing on the north face of Mt. Assiniboine on July 2. The conditio...
Siniolchu Attempt. Josef Friedhuber led an Austrian expedition that attempted the north ridge of this beautiful peak on Zemu glacier. Due to heavy snow and persistent bad weather in September/ October they had to abandon the attempt.Harish Kapadia...
Mount Candlelight, Northeast Buttress. On July 5 D. French, Mr. and Mrs. D. Stevenson and I made a new route, climbing Mount Candlelight (Peak 12,004) by the northeast buttress. From Whitney Portal at 8350 feet we had a 6-hour Grade IV and V climb...
This superb dome is situated on the west side of Charlotte Creek, some two miles above the junction with Bubbs Creek. Fred Beckey, Galen Rowell and I had only a weekend in mid-October to make the climb, and the closer we came to the east face, the...
Chimborazo, Southwest Ridge and Face (Whymper Route). Norwegian Sverre Aarseth, Canadian Scott Tremaine and I reached the summit of Chimborazo from the newly completed hut on September 3. Climbers have until now usually used the Red Walls route on...
Granite Canyon Pinnacles. On August 23 Philip S. Peterson, T. Keith Liggett, and C. E. Buchwald climbed three easy pinnacles on the south side of the canyon.
P 7046, Bomber Buttress. Just south of Cutthroat Lake and due east of Cutthroat Peak is an innocuous peak with an attractive north buttress. On September 5, John Culberson, Sue Harrington and I led six mountaineering students up a ten-pitch route ...
Kanjiroba, South Main Peak. A Japanese expedition led by Atsushi Inenaga reached the summit of the south main peak on November 4. Getting to the top were Sekio Matsunaga, Wataru Takasaki, Kaji Yada and Sherpa Ang Temba. They climbed the northwest ...
Spokane Mountaineers. Three public film evenings led into 1963’s highly successful climbing school. The culmination of this school was a ceremonial graduation at the summit of Mount Hood, with 29 people in the party. A new club award system recogn...
Fresno Dome, Southwest Face. There appear to be a number of domes and rock outcrops on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada that have been overlooked by the serious climber. One of these is Fresno Dome, southwest of Yosemite National Park. On No...
Maipo, First Ski Ascent. The route for this, one of the very few ski ascents accomplished in the Andes, started at the military Refugio Cruz de Piedra, continued through Vegas del Yaucha, los Paramillos and on to a second hut called El Cilindro, b...
Cordillera Yauyos. In late September, 1971 Frank Hepburn, Scot, Peter Radcliffe and I, New Zealanders, were blessed by a week’s fine weather in the Yauyos. After the Huancayo-Yauyos bus at Tinku, we went up the side valley to Miraflores and then u...
Cho Oyu. Our six-man British team, after a long and arduous approach from Nepal succeeded in placing a man on the top of Cho Oyu on April 30 by the first-ascent route. Dave Walsh, with Wes Sterritt and Dave Morris, began the summit attempt on Apri...
Siulá Chico, Ski Descent, Cordillera Huayhuash. Italian extreme skier Toni Valeruz climbed the south face of Siulá Chico on May 30 and bivouacked on the summit in poor weather. The next morning he skied the 60°, 6000-foot-high slope.
CB 31. All 16 members of a Japanese expedition led by Heihachi Nomura climbed CB31. From Base Camp on the Samundar Tapu Glacier, they placed Camp I on the Candi-Ki Glacier at 4900 meters on July 26 and Camp II at 5600 meters on July 29. Rope was t...