Ingolffjeld, Attempt on South Face. The weather was unusually poor, making access to the fjord a problem because of excessive ice. Leader of this British-Danish group was Dolfi Rotovnik. The climbers involved were Bill Tweedale and I, British, and...
Tocorpuri Group, 1990. Our expedition was composed of Austrian Theo Dowbenka and Germans Ludwig Albrecht, Ludwig Esenböck, Josef Hümmer, Josef Knott, Rolf Thorenz and me. We ascended by their normal routes Lican- cabur (5921 meters, 19,426 feet) a...
Rakaposhi, Northwest Ridge. Our expedition made the second ascent of the northwest ridge, partly by a new route, and the sixth ascent of the peak. We were Dries Nijsen, leader, Ton van den Boogaard, Rudolf de Koning, Mathieu van Rijswick and I. We...
Wyoming—Grand Teton National Park: On July 14, 1953, Norma Hart (22) and Roger G. Smith had climbed the Grand by the Exum route and were descending via the Owen route. She used a nylon sling tied by unspecified knots and rappelled in the usual way...
More Moab Area Climbs. Jay Smith and his wife Jo climbed King Krimson (5.11,2 pitches) in the spring. The route is at the far right edge of the south face of Parriot Mesa. Also on the south face, the farthest left splinter crack, just right of Yog...
Mount Everest Winter Attempt, 1987-1988. Our expedition consisted of Masayoshi Utsumi, Kiyotaka Hoshino, my wife Masami Hasegawa and me. As reported in AAJ, 1988 on page 272, we were prevented from getting to the mountain earlier by the big snowst...
Jordan, climbing access threat. Di Taylor and I discovered the climbing potential of Wadi Rum in 1984 and soon extended our explorations across the country, finding more climbing areas, treks, canyons, and caves. I wrote in Summit 26,2002 about th...
East Fuller Butte, Southern Yosemite Direct. In late summer, Rick Cassam, Brandt Didden and I spent three days on this face in the Sierra National Forest. The route, Southern Yosemite Direct (V 5.10 A3), follows the southernmost line up the wall, ...
RAPPEL ERROR, NO BACKUPAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Tunnel MountainOn March 11, 1993, two climbers, both 22 years old, with several years experience, decided to take advantage of unseasonably warm weather to climb “Gooseberry,” a moderate six-pitch r...
Dunagiri, local access problems and an ascent. A Korean expedition had full clearance from Delhi to climb this famous 7066m peak west of Changabang and the Nanda Devi Inner Sanctuary rim. Arriving in the area during August the Uttaranchal Forest A...
Swargarohini I. This small but difficult peak has been attracting mountaineers for decades. J.T.M. Gibson and other parties attempted it from many sides. Eight mountaineering instructors from the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering climbed the virgi...
McGill Outing Club. The club’s 1973 activities ranged as widely as in the past, with perhaps an increased emphasis on cross-country skiing. The club has established an annual cross-country ski event to encourage its members to take up the sport an...
Uja Tirche Attempt. Bad weather and unseasonably heavy snowfall in July defeated a three-member Bombay expedition led by Vinay Hegde on Uja Tirche (6202 meters, 20,350 feet). They approached via the Sirvanch valley to the west. The mountain was fi...
Canadian Rockies, Winter Ice Activity. The 1996-1997 winter in the Canadian Rockies turned out to be perhaps the most prodigious season ever—not for the new route total (which was less than half of each of the previous three seasons), nor for the ...
Boquillas Canyon, Campanile Boquillas. In January, 1997, I soloed Campanile Boquillas (IV 5.10 A2), which ascends a 500-foot limestone tower on the right (Mexican) bank about one mile into the canyon. The route starts in a chimney on the left edge...
Staunings Alper, East Greenland. An eight-man Italian expedition led by Giuseppe Dionisi climbed in the region of the Vikingebrae in the Staunings Alper. They climbed Hjornespids (2770 meters, 9088 feet) on the Pyramid Glacier and made a traverse ...
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak). Our commercial expedition led by Briton Jonathan Pratt and me from the United States consisted of eleven climbers, of whom six reached the summit, and six trekkers, one of whom got to 6500 meters. We were of six nationa...
Annapurna IV, Winter Ascent. The Canadian Annapurna IV Winter Expedition climbed the 7525-meter, 24,688-foot mountain by the normal north-face route as training for this year’s Canadian Everest expedition. The leader was Gordon Smith and the other...
Punta Zanzi, North Face, 1980. On December 7, 1952 Luis Krahl, Ernesto Hoffman and Eduardo Meyer made the first ascent of Punta Zanzi, climbing the south ridge from Cerro Valdés. The second ascent did not take place until 1980 when from November 2...
Ak-Su and Kara-Su Valleys, Various Attempts and Ascents. As part of our Kyrgyzstan itinerary, Brady Van Matre and I traveled to the Karavshin region of the Pamir Alai mountains in early September and made camp in the Ak-Su valley. (There are many ...