FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn January 1, 1983, around 1700, Lou Renner (27) and Ron Badel were walking down an ice chute that runs in an east/west direction from Le Conte Gully when Badel fell and pulled Renner, to...

Alpine Club of Canada. The Alpine Club of Canada experienced a very busy and rewarding year in 1977. The usual summer and winter activities took place. Some of these activities occurred in new areas, while others were a return to known, but little...

Winter Exploration of the Southern Patagonian Icecap. On June 6 an expedition of the Club Andino Bariloche left for the region of Luguna Eléctrica, north of FitzRoy, in order to find out about the winter conditions on the Patagonian icecaps. The l...

Sentinel Turret, South Face, variation. A direct variation of the Chouinard route, beginning directly below the prominent open book on the face, was made on August 16, 1967, by Jim Erickson and Sheldon Smith. The ledge below this dihedral was reac...

Mount Torment, Southwest Face. On July 24, Sue Harrington and I completed a route on the right side of the face just left of a prominent gully that drops from the south ridge. The best and hardest pitch was along a solid right-facing comer on clea...

CORNICE COLLAPSE, AVALANCHEBritish Columbia, Yoho National Park, Mount Vice PresidentOn April 9, an American man who was backcountry skiing in Yoho National Park died when he was swept away by an avalanche. Park wardens discovered the man’s body a...

Putha Hiunchuli. This expedition was a repeat of last year’s commercial expedition organized and promoted by the German Alpine Club. There were two groups; the first of 14 persons led by Siegfried Hupfauer climbed from October 7 to 27; the second ...

Sierra Club. Sierra Club mountaineers continued to enjoy the mountain wildernesses. The year was memorable for the achievements of a few and for great satisfaction for many. Club mountaineers watched the sun set from the summit of Mount Everest an...

Hamilton Lakes Dome, North Ridge. Having chosen an impossible line on Angel Wings and having succeeded in proving it impossible, TM Herbert and I cast our eyes across Hamilton Creek to the north ridge of Hamilton Lakes Dome or Peak 9770. This prom...

Cerro Bonete. Seven mountaineers from Mendoza and Buenos Aires explored and climbed in the area forming the provincial boundaries between Mendoza and San Juan in January. From the railroad station of Punta de Vacas they went into de Matienzo valle...

Mazamas. The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, scored a significant breakthrough in its 1970 climbing school results. The new format was laboriously formulated by Dick Laird, who headed the basic school with Ray Sheldon’s assistance. An opening night o...

Cran des Érables, Hot Salami and winter potential. At the end of December, Frédéric Maltais and I climbed a new route and probably made the first winter ascent of Cran des Érables, a cliff in the Hautes-Gorges Park, Quebec. To reach the cliff, we ...

Makalu Ascent and Tragedy. On September 10, Marcel Rüedi and I flew from Kathmandu to 2800 meters in the Barun valley. Three days later we got to Base Camp at 5400 meters below Makalu. We, with four other Swiss and Austrians, were members of a six...

P 5370, Tunshu Group, Cordillera Central. Two friends, Ruedi Merker and Magdalena Hohl, and I drove from Lima to Azulcocha on August 30. On September 2 we climbed Tatatunshu (17,241 feet) on easy, hard snow. In the afternoon the weather turned bad...

Attempt to reach Apostelens Tommelfinger; Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick ascent. Jens Richter and friends returned to South Greenland for another attempt on Apostelens Tommelfinger, which lies above the Lindenows Fjord and of which they had almost reac...

Alaska-Yukon TerritoryMt. Logan: Second and Third Ascents. On 17 June 1950 Norman H. Read (aged 60) and André Roch, well-known Swiss climber, made the second ascent of Mt. Logan (19,850 ft.). Read, with five others, had made the first ascent on 23...

Rassemblement International d’Alpinistes, Chamonix, July 7 to 26. Every two years the Fédération Française de la Montagne invites participants from some 25 countries to be their guests for three weeks of climbing in Chamonix. The meeting is center...

Gyachung Kang. A Korean expedition was led by Yang Haw-Seok. On October 24, Shin Yeom-Bo, Yeon Hen-Mo, and Sherpas Ang Rinzi and Ang Dorje reached the summit (7952 meters, 26,089 feet) via the southwest face and southwest ridge.Elizabeth Hawley

Chacraraju Este and Artesonraju, Cordillera Blanca. Yugoslav Pavle Kozjek had a fine season in the Cordillera Blanca. On June 14, he completed the probably first solo ascent of the American route on the 900-meter-high south face of Chacraraju Este...

Koa Rong 2. This virgin peak in Lahul was climbed by a Polish team. Andrzej Zboinski, leader, and Ryzsard Wrona reached the summit on August 23. The following day, Ryszard Tokarczyk, his wife Grazyna and Krzysztof Wroczynski repeated the ascent. T...