Stone Palaces. Geofrey Childs. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2000. 217 pages. $22.95.Teewinot and Stone Palaces are of a similar literary genre. They both attempt circumscribing what is unique about the climbers’ lifestyle. Yet their difference...

Peaks Above Barpu Glacier, West Karakoram. In mid August Ralph Atkinson, Ged Campion, Mick Curtin, John Keska, Stewart Muir and I visited the Barpu Glacier. We approached by jeep from Hunza to Hoppar, where we hired cooperative local porters for t...

Chilean-Japanese Expedition to the Central Cordillera. The Japanese group consists of three climbers, Otha, their leader, Tamba and Toyoda, all of the Alpine Club of Kobe University. They are all dedicating themselves to becoming acquainted with t...

Washington, Snoqualmie—On February 19, 1956 Everett Lasher and Gene Prater began a winter ascent of the 4,500-foot ridge lying north of Camp Mason on the Snoqualmie Pass Highway. It was a. bitterly cold, overcast day with a sharp wind. As they mad...

Mount Bona. Apparently two Japanese parties climbed Mount Bona (16,500 feet) in 1977. From information in Iwa To Yuki the second party made the eleventh ascent of the mountain and the sixth Japanese one. They followed close on a party from Kawasak...

SLIP ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, AND DESCENDING UNROPED—British Columbia, Mt. Assiniboine Park, Mt. Assiniboine. Mike Walsh and Barbara Coffman (30) had spent a few days at the Hind Hut and had just started to descend, unroped, the snow chute o...

Siniolchu Ascent. A Japanese expedition led by Dr. Masafumi Katayama summitted Siniolchu (6887 meters) on May 21 by the north ridge. Summitters were Masayuki, Chida and Takashi. This was a 12-member team that operated in the area from April 13 to ...

Limbo Ledge. Several exfoliation slabs may be seen on the southeast face of the Lower Brother. Almost all of these have been climbed, but one, which I named Limbo Ledge, had defeated a number of attempts. Jim Baldwin and I made the first ascent of...

The Dragtooth, West Chimney and West Ridge. Mary Bomba and I made this first ascent on July 26. We climbed from the Dragtooth Glacier to Polemonium Pass. From 100 feet northeast of the pass, we ascended cracks and chimneys up and left to a large b...

Pethangtse, Barun Glacier. The Rikkyo University expedition from Tokyo under the leadership of Hirotoshi Fukuda attempted Baruntse (23,688 feet) four times between April 29 and May 9, but the highest they reached was still 150 feet below the summi...

Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Access Problems. The Indian situation continues to be bad. Our close Indian friend, Celso Villafañea, has died, apparently of injuries sustained in a fight related to tribal hostilities over climbers and no doubt also...

Caraz III and Santa Cruz Norte. On July 15, Brett Wolf, Kris Erickson and Patrick Knoll completed a new route on the south face of Caraz III (5720m) in the Parón Valley. The route, The Usual Suspects (ED mixed V 85°, 600m), followed a line linking...

Mount Thor, West Face Direct Attempt. Steven Amter, Michael Sawicky and I attempted a direct route on the west face of Mount Thor. The face is about 4500 feet high, much of it overhanging. Lying above the Arctic Circle near a vast icefield, the mo...

Sawtooth Dome, West Face, Sawtooth Range. Any climber visiting the Sawtooth Range can not but help admire the majestic curve of a great granitic dome, seen in profile about three miles above the head of Redfish Lake, to the south of Redfish Creek....

The Kloochman, Traverse; Goose Egg Mountain; The Talon. The Kloochman is an enigmatic massif in the southern Washington Cascades. An old volcanic intrusion, the mile-long north-south- trending wedge has a main south summit, a prominent north summi...

Cordillera Barroso and Salcantay, Cordillera Vilcabamba. The Fritz Kasparek Memorial Expedition consisted of Raimund Heinzel, leader, Franz Hawelka, Bruno Klausbruckner and me. Its main objective was a mountain-climbing and cartographic exploratio...

Old Hyndman Peak, Bear/Chicken Variation. Brian Wood and I set out in early October 2000 to explore the northeast face of Old Hyndman Peak in the Pioneer Range for possible early season ice climbs. We bivied at the base of the north ridge and the ...

FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HATCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn June 15, 1981, Scott Williams (20) and his partner were climbing the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral. At the end of the third pitch, a German party caught up to Williams’ party and asked to ...

Dunagiri, Southwest Ridge. During April and May the Australian National University Mountaineering Club Expedition climbed Dunagiri (23,184 feet). We were J. Armstrong, K. Bell, K. Baldwin, A. Blakers, A. Bond, K. Burns, Peter Cocker, leader, J. Fi...

Crooked Thumb, North Face. This long and impressive face (V, F9, A3) was climbed during August 11-13, 1966, by Peter Cleveland and Don Storjohann. It stands as one of the most difficult climbs yet completed in the Tetons. When approaching the Thum...