Pernod Spire. On July 10, Dave Turner and I climbed the regular route on Chablis Spire and traversed into the notch between Chablis and Pernod. Dave led one long pitch up lichen-caked rock to within 12 feet of the summit. I joined him and clipped ...
AVALANCHE, WEATHER British Columbia, Yoho National Park, Mount Stephen, Super BockOn March 6, three ice climbers were approaching the bottom pitch of a route called Super Bock (180 m. III WI5) on Mount Stephen in Yoho National Park. Two of the cli...
Putha Hiunchuli (Dhaulagiri VII), 1978. In the post-monsoon season of 1978 Our German Alpine Club made the fourth ascent of Putha Hiunchuli (23,774 feet) by the south ridge of the south face. This route had been climbed twice before in the spring ...
The Mountaineers. The Mountaineers had a busy year. The ski mountaineering course was reactivated after lying dormant for several years. Despite poor snow conditions most of the year which caused cancellation of some of the tours and relocating ce...
The Smokestack. This is the lefthand tower on a separate but obscure massif of the Wheeler Crest, marked as P 8400 on the map, above Well’s Meadow on the Owens Valley floor. Though visible from Bishop, it appears so small and blends in so well wit...
Aconcagua, South Face. The Polish woman, Wanda Rutkiewicz, along with the Swiss Stéphane Schaffter succeeded in making the ascent of the south face of Aconcagua by the 1954 French route from January 16 to 19, 1985. They were trapped for a day 1000...
Iowa Mountaineers. The past year was one of the most active in club history. An unusually large number of weekend climbing outings were sponsored to Devils Lake, Wisconsin, and to the Mississippi Palisades area in Illinois. During the spring and e...
Mt. Inflexible, East Face Funfun. David Marra invited me on a secret mission on December 7, 2002. All I knew was that it was in Kananaskis Country and was unclimbed. We parked 2km up Mt. Fortress Road, 100 feet before the first “End of Avalanche Z...
Makalu Attempt. A French expedition of ten was led by Raymond Renaud to Makalu’s northwest side. Sherpas Sirdar Lhakpa Norbu and Pasang Dawa reached the expedition’s high point of 8300 meters on October 13 and were turned back by strong, cold wind...
Tullujuto, Cordillera Central. The Scot Frank Hepburn, German Erich Pahl, New Zealander Jennifer Davidson and I drove to Azulcocha. Several days of bad weather prevented setting up a high camp until October 3. From there we climbed Tullujuto (18,8...
Martin Fickweiler and I visited the Tasermiut Fjord in July. We camped in the Klosterdalen Valley close to the fjord and below the famous tower, Ketil. We spotted interesting rock spires at the end of the valley, on its northern flank, and decided...
Stanford Alpine Club. The Club has weekly practice climbs on local rocks. Beginners are instructed in safe climbing, and more experienced climbers try to perfect their technique. Members frequently practise the dynamic belay by dropping a 120-lb. ...
Eiger, North Face, Japanese Summer Direttissima. Five Japanese men, Takio and Yasuo Kato, Satoru Nigishi, Amano Hirofumi and Susumu Kubo and one woman, Michiko Imai, climbed a third route on the north face of the Eiger, a second direttissima, whic...
Gyachung Kang Tragedy. Eight Japanese from Fukuoka University and three Nepalese, attempting to climb Gyachung Kang by its southwest buttress, were led by Mitsui Uematsu. On October 17, Shinichi Baba was returning from Camp IV at 6400 meters. He p...
Monja Chica, El Altar Group, New Route. On December 24, we arrived at the south side of the Altar massif. After three days of bad weather, fog and deep snow, on the 27th we reached the col between Monja Chica and El Tabemaculo. The next day, Carlo...
Peaks in Lahul. There was much climbing activity in Lahul. Mulkila 5 (6370 meters, 20,900 feet) was climbed in September by Indians G.J. Jambotkar, P.B. Bodhane, D.T. Kulkarni and three high-altitude porters. Mulkila 7 (6340 meters, 20,800 feet) w...
“Grimface,” Cascade Range. During the second week of August Doug McCarty, Steve Barnett, and I climbed new routes on “Grimface”, the prominent granite peak between Wall and Lakeview Creeks on the Canadian side of the boundary. A route on the east ...
Ojos del Salado: Permit, Hut and Road Conditions 1991-2. In late December, 1991, Ken Nolan, Jean Aschenbrenner, Dan Smith and I drove across the southern Puna de Atacama to the Chilean-Argentine frontier near the Ojos del Salado, assisted by Chile...
Braldu Brakk Attempt. French climbers led by Claude Nizon unsuccessfully attempted to climb Braldu Brakk. Details are missing.
Wyoming—Wind River Range, Warbonnet Peak: On August 11, 1953, Kent Bollinger (28), Gauray Yodh, and Tom Nathan left the Chicago Mountaineering Club climbing camp in the Wind River at 8:30 a.m. to climb the east side of Warbonnet Peak. The original...