Tehipite Dome, Southwest Face, In the Niche of Time. In October, spending 14 days out from the trailhead and six days climbing, Ron Felton, Guy ‘Zelly’ Zielsky and I succeeded in establishing the first completely independent and first big new rout...
Kirat Chuli (Tent Peak) Attempts. An Austrian expedition led by Kurt Elbl operated in Sikkim from April 24 to May 25. They attempted the south-west ridge of Kirat Chuli (7365 meters). The 12-member team reached 7153 meters on May 17. The high poin...
North Dome, West Face. On April 29 Art Gran and I made the first ascent of the west face of North Dome. The route lies in the northern of two prominent crack systems near the center of the face. Laybacks and chimneys constituted the main difficult...
North Palisade, North Face. Lee Panza and I did a new route on the Sierra’s third highest peak on July 12. We ascended the broad right-hand buttress of the three between the U-notch and Clyde couloirs. We climbed 300 feet, using some aid to pass l...
Cho Oyu. A German expedition was led by Rudi Rott to Cho Oyu (26,750 feet), the seventh highest mountain in the world, to attempt its third ascent and the first one on skis. During the acclimatization period Fritz Stammberger and the Sherpa Aila c...
Unnamed Peaks. On August 24 I hiked from the town of Güicán to Cardenillo Lake, located at the northwest end of the Sierra Nevada de Cocuy (Güicán) and the same afternoon I ascended a peak c. 5045 meters (16,552 feet), and shortly afterwards climb...
Huandoy, South Face, Demaison Route, Second Ascent, and Other French Activity. In June, Y. Graziani and J. Blanc Gras made the second ascent of the Demaison route on the South Face of Huandoy, taking 11 days. Further details are lacking, but this ...
Mount Thor, West Face. A Japanese party of seven led by Kuzuichi Yamazaki made an attempt of the west face of Mount Thor but Isao Yagi fell to his death and the climb was not completed. Other members were Ide, Yamamoto, Inuzuka, Kirmura, and Makin...
Split Aiguille, Direct, Sawtooth Range. Just west of the Grand Aiguille lies the 300-foot Split Aiguille, split by a deep, open chimney, which was climbed twice in 1960 by rope throwing and a tyrolean traverse from its lower summit. It was called ...
Mt. Hardy, The Disappearing Staircase. It was amazing that a feature as compelling as the northeast buttress of Mt. Hardy could have not been climbed by 2001. Perhaps it was its perceived isolation, since it is almost 10 miles from the road to its...
Peaks near Huagaruncho. Fernard R. and Francois Rebeyrol, Mme Monique Bruhat, Mlle Claudine Tesa and I were a group of friends who wanted to climb not too far from Lima, for we had but two weeks in July. Therefore from the village of Huachón we cl...
Needle Mountain, north face. To climb the north face of Needle Mountain (12,106') has long been a goal of mine. After three unsuccessful attempts I finally made it to the top on September 27-28—7,000 feet from the floor of the South Fork’s valley ...
FALL ON ROCK, IMPROPER PROTECTION, FALLING ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn June 14, 1981, Frederick Fritschler (27) was at the top of the layback section on the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral when he fell to a ledge 35 feet below. He did not ...
Trisul, West Rib. An expedition of the British Army Royal Engineers made a successful climb of the Yugoslavian route on Trisul by its western rib, but quit just short of the summit since they had not received permission for the climb. On June 21 P...
Teewinot Mountain, Northwest Ridge, variation. On July 29, John Whitesel and Leigh Ortenburger, on the second ascent of the northwest ridge, made a direct variation up the steep section which had been bypassed in 1954. At a point where the origina...
FALL THROUGH ICE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTAlaska, Keystone CanyonAn ice climbing party of experienced climbers was approaching Bridal Veil Falls (V), which requires crossing the Lowe River, early in the season (November), and found the river ice much ...
A.A.C., Southern California Section. Two meetings and a program for the public were held by this Section in the first half of 1977. On January 27, Bob Kamps presented a program of his climbs during the past twenty years, including hundreds of new ...
Cerro Torre Region. During February Argentines and Italians living in Buenos Aires entered the Cerro Torre region, hoping to find the body of Tony Egger, who fell after the successful climb of Cerro Torre in January, 1959. Expedition members were ...
McCain’s Pillar. For nearly a generation climbers have known of the sharp, block-shaped pinnacle lurking near the base of the north ridge, or more precisely, the Crescent Arête of Mount Owen. But it was not until September 3 that it was climbed by...
Pernod Spire. On July 10, Dave Turner and I climbed the regular route on Chablis Spire and traversed into the notch between Chablis and Pernod. Dave led one long pitch up lichen-caked rock to within 12 feet of the summit. I joined him and clipped ...