HENRY S. KINGMAN1894-1968The Club has sustained a great loss in the death of Henry Kingman who died on December 12 at the age of 74 following recent surgery. His wife the former Josephine Woodward, predeceased him in August. Kingman was a leading ...
Three years ago Fred Beckey pulled out his little black book (actually a tattered FedEx envelope) and showed me a blown-out photocopy of the unclimbed west side of Burkett Needle. Of course, no tactical information could be gained from scrutinizin...
NELLO PACE 1917-1995Nello Pace, one of our most versatile members, who joined the AAC in 1955, died June 17, 1995 of prostate cancer at the age of 78. Nello specialized in environmental physiology, which he once defined as the “study of all the di...
Living Himalayan Flowers, by Professor Sasuke Nakao, with introduction by Prof. Siro Katamura. Published by the Mainichi Newspapers, Tokyo, Yaruka-cho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo, 1965. 194 pages, 253 color prints. Bilingual. Price: 8500 yen.The flora of N...
ALVIN E. PETERSON1903-1978Alvin was “Pete” to his many friends and companions of the hills. Educated at Berkeley as an electrical engineer, he was a handyman by proclivity. The design of a high-voltage system or the building of a cabin were both e...
Mount Everest: 1938, by H. W. Tilman. 8vo., 160 pp., 48 illustrations and 4 maps. New York, 1948: The Macmillan Co. Price, $3.75. The great record of the 1924 Everest Expedition tends so to dwarf the accomplishments of subsequent parties that to r...
Climbs by Indian Expeditions. Three persons lost their lives in an attempt to climb Mukerbey (19,910 feet). The group left Manali on October 13. On the 20th the fourth member, Hoshang Pavri found it difficult to go beyond 14,000 feet and returned ...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED, CARABINER BROKE, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWashington, Frenchman' s Coulee, Air GuitarOn September 30, the famed Swedish adventurer Goran Kropp died from a fall while rock climbing. He was leading Air Guitar, a 65-foot 5....
King Brakk, Allah ’s Finger, Ibrahim Peak, First Ascents. A team of three Italians and one Swiss carried out a massive campaign of exploration in unknown valleys and peaks of the Hushe area. The team was composed of Maurizio Giordani, Lorenzo Lanf...
Tasermiut Fjord, Nalumatorsoq, Stupid White Man, attempt; Ulamertorssuaq, War and Poetry, attempt. Wawrzyniec “Wawa” Zakrzewski and I have climbed in Patagonia, Yosemite, and the Trango Tower area of Pakistan. Last year we visited Greenland, from ...
Manaslu Southeast-Face Attempt. A 10-man expedition from Macedonia, Yugoslavia was led by Jovan Poposki. They attempted the southeast face, the route of the Poles in the autumn of 1984. Frequent heavy snowfall in September and the first half of Oc...
FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES North Carolina, Pilot Mountain State ParkOn September 5, Paul Bridges (PB) and Alex Rodriguez (AR) were rappelling in Pilot Mountain State Park, which is located approximately 2 5 miles north of Winston Sa...
Putha Hiunchuli. Another Japanese expedition, from the Nagoya YMCA Alpine Club, led by Tadaki Sabashi, climbed Putha Hiunchuli also by the south spur in the post-monsoon. They too came from the southwest. Leaving Camp IV at 21,000 feet, on October...
Total Alpinism. René Desmaison. Granada, London, 1982. 202 pages, black and white photographs. £12.50.Total Alpinism is certainly a book to read. It is like sitting down with one’s best pal and listening to him tell about his latest wild climb. Th...
Aguja Saint Exupery, north face and east face variation. On January 16, 2002, Americans Lorne Glick and Mark Davis climbed a new variation to the Kearney-Harrington route on the north face. They started on the Kearney line, then climbed a steep cr...
The first Austrian expedition to Queen Maud Land comprised Karl Pichler, Paul Koller, and me. Our goal was to ski east from the well-known Ulvetanna Group in the Fenriskjeften to the Holtedahlfjella, Kurzefjella, and Conradfjella. In November...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, SNOW BRIDGE COLLAPSEWashington, Mount RainierAll 15 members of this climbing party were coworkers, family, or in one case, friends of the Tacoma Fire Department. Kurt Fengler (34) was a lieutenant with the Tacoma Fire Departmen...
MARTY HOEY1951-1982On May 15 Marty Hoey died in a fall at 26,200 feet on the north face of Mount Everest. A day or two later, she would have stood a very good chance of becoming the first woman from this country to reach the summit of the world’s ...
Batian, Mount Kenya. A Spanish team, José Manuel Anglada, Juan Cerda, Emilio Civis, Pokorski, Gines Roca and Rivas made a new route on Batian (17,058 feet) of Mount Kenya. The route led up the Gray Wall, Firmin Tower and through Shipton’s Notch. T...
FALL ON ICE California, Carson PeakOn December 28, 1989, a daring nighttime rescue of an injured mountain climber came off without a hitch as the June Lake Mountain Rescue Team lowered a Davis man some 600 meters off Carson Peak to waiting paramed...