Cerro Cota 2000, Osa ma non Troppo. It’s the same old story…an evening with friends, a couple of photos, a few beers, and then, while driving home, talk about those photos. The next day the four of us were talking about it. Why not go for it?So in...
Cerro Balmaceda and Cerro Paine, Patagonia. An Argentine expedition of the Club Andino Bariloche had expected to attempt the main peak of the Paine group, which they had attempted in 1954 and 1955. Just before leaving for Punta Arenas in mid Octob...
Everest. Our expedition had Karen Fellerhoff and Peter Athans as logistical leaders. The other members were Americans Jeff and Kellie Erwin Rhoads, Andy Lapkiss, Glenn Porzak and Tom Whittaker, Swedes Carl Johan Lager and Mikael Reuterswärd, New Z...
Leaning Towers Group, Southern Selkirks. Chuck Sink and I spent from July 16 to 25 near the Leaning Towers, east of Kootenay Lake. We were ferried across the lake to the outlet of Campbell Creek and the beginning of a 14-mile trek comprised mainly...
The Building of MountainsNoel E. OdellWITH John Ruskin’s dictum in Modern Painters, that mountains are the beginning and the end of all natural scenery, the majority of us mountaineers will surely agree; and a visit to the Ruskin Museum at Conisto...
Hypothermia: The Facts. K.J. Collins. Oxford University Press, New York, 1983. 136 pages, 8 black and white illustrations, charts. $13.95.This is a disappointing book which will satisfy neither the doctor nor the mountaineer. Though apparently wri...
The highlight of climbing activity in Norway during 2010 was undoubtedly the free ascent of Arch Wall on Romsdal’s iconic Trollveggen, the Troll Wall. For some, this ascent was perhaps the most impressive in the history of summer climbing in Norwa...
The Trango Towers in Reviewby John MiddendorfThe impressive rock spires of Great Trango Tower and Trango (a.k.a. Nameless) Tower create one of the wonders of the Earth, capturing the imagination of everyone who travels on the Baltoro Glacier. Grea...
GASTON RÉBUFFAT 1921-1985Gaston Rébuffat, longtime Honorary Member of the American Alpine Club and Officer of the French Legion of Honor, died of cancer, in Paris, on May 31, 1985, at the age of 64.His climbing career spanned half a century and du...
Guy Robertson and I returned to Kyrgyzstan’s Western Kokshaal-Too in late August, intent on finishing what we had started in 2002 on the unclimbed southeast face of Kyzyl Asker (5,842m). With us we brought extra firepower in the form of Pete Benso...
GeographicalDistricts1951-19891990Number of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta2417353420340British Columbia224884865110Yukon Territory292563000Ontario26650100Quebec18549300East Arctic72200...
Round Mystery Mountain, by Sir Norman Watson and E. J. King. xii + 246 pages, 32 illustrations and 3 maps. London : Edward Arnold & Co., 1935. Price 15s.Here is an enjoyable book, not pretending to be serious record of a scientific expedition,...
Shimshal White Horn, second complete ascent. Alexandra and Mattias Robl and Markus Tannheimer made an ascent of Shimshal White Horn (6,303m) that is apparently only the second complete ascent to the highest point of the mountain. As reported in AA...
FALL ON RAPPEL—LOST CONTROL AND DESCENDED TOO RAPIDLYCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn September 17, 1992, Robert Moore (42) was rappelling a single 7/16 inch, 820 meter rope down the face of El Capitan when he apparently lost control and ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, UNABLE TO COMMUNICATE WITH PARTNERColorado, Buena Vista CragsOn September 26, I was approximately 18 feet up a dihedral that was maybe 22 feet tall, about to make the crux move on a route (name unknown, left of...
Most international climbing trips start with a picture that inspires a dream. Janet Bergman, Ben Ditto, Freddie Wilkinson, and I made plans to explore the Manikaran Spires, which flank the wondrous Parvati Valley, because the previous year Freddie...
DANIEL EDMUND DOODY1933 - 1965On March 14, 1965, Dan Doody and Craig M. Merrihue fell from the center section of Pinnacle Gully in Huntington Ravine, Mount Washington. Dan was killed during the fall and Craig died shortly after. A bent ice screw c...
Pumori north ridge. A new route was successfully forged on the Tibetan side of Everest’s 7,161m (23,494') neighbor Pumori. The noted Swiss mountaineer, Erhard Loretan, led a group of nine members, all but one also Swiss, in the first attempt of it...
Reinhold Messner Free Spirit: A Climber’s Life. Reinhold Messner. Translated by JillNeate. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1991. 250 pages, illustrated. $32.00. Although he is still well under 50, perhaps Messner has already accomplished too much for a...
Thanglasgo Valley, Peak 5,850m, northwest face and northeast ridge; Peak 5,995m, southeast ridge. From 2007 to 2009 I led expeditions to the Nubra Valley for the British Schools Exploring Society (BSES), picking off a few previously climbed and un...