Ganchenpo. Our expedition was composed of Hiroyasu Sugita, Yoshichika Segi, Yoshiko Kasho (f), Tsuyoshi Itai, Yasushi Tatsumi, Shuichi Takeda, Yumi Kanaoka (f) and me as leader. On April 7, we started trekking from Dhunche. We acclimatized at 4500...
Visser Expedition to the Karakorum. Dr. Philip C. Visser accompanied by his wife ; Dr. Rudolf Wyss, geologist ; Herr Peter, zoologist; Afrar Zue Khan Sahib and Mohammed Akram, cartographers, is leaving Srinagar the middle of April for another expe...
Blueberry Hill, Darrington Area. Chris Greyell and I made a new route on this face in June. We started well to the left of the Sumner- Gerhardt route in a large central depression. The first pitch follows a low-angle slab to where the wall steepen...
The Fin, North Arête Chimney. In June, Dave Nettle, Kevin Daniels and I climbed an obvious crack system directly up the north face of The Fin starting on the spine of the ridge that joins the base of the north face. Based on the old rusty quarter-...
Buck Mountain, West Summit, South Face. This major face, separated from the main south face of Buck by a large couloir, was climbed on July 28 by Rick Medrick and Dean Moore. The route begins amid loose rock in the gully near the lower right edge ...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTION, HURRYING, WEATHER Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, BookendOn August 12, 1994, about noon, Bob Koppe (51) slipped on wet rock while leading the third pitch (5.8) of Melvin's Wheel III 5.8+ on the Bookend d...
The Alpine Club of Canada. The major highlights of 1991 in the facilities area were the renovation and re-opening of Fay Hut and the Water, Energy and Waste Management Symposium (WEWMS). The first hut built by the A.C.C. (1927), the Fay Hut, was f...
Peaks near Mount Chamberlin, Philip Smith-Rom.anz.of Area, Brooks Range. I established Base Camp on the upper Hulahula River on May 27, 1980, hoping to climb a few of the yet unclimbed mountains. P 8300+, the southernmost 8000-foot peak of the Cha...
FALLING ROCK, BAD WEATHERBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mt. BryceHector Allison (27) and Norman Letnik (22) started climbing the 7,000-foot north face of Mt. Bryce on 1 August 1979. On the first day, they climbed the first 4,000 feet and bivou...
Pucaraju, Hot Line. In May and June, Nahuel Campitelli and Marcos Frischknecht from Bariloche, Argentina, made a (possible) third ascent (with some new pitches) of Hot Line, a couloir/gully with decomposing rock and little ice on Pucaraju (5400m)....
Cerro Mismi and Other Peaks, Ancient and Modern Ascents. During 1977 I ascended several volcanoes in southern Peru and found on their summits traces of Inca occupancy. On Mismi (5596 meters, 18,360 feet), at the extreme southeast end of the Chila ...
Correction. The accounts .of the ascents of Kedarnath Dome and of Ronti which appeared in A.A.J., 1968, 16:1, pp. 216-7 were misplaced since both of these peaks lie in Garhwal.
Attempt on Kangbachen. A 12-man Yugoslav expedition, led by Joze Govekar, attacked Kangbachen, the 25,926-foot west peak of Kangchen- junga. Colonel James Roberts has kindly sent us details. They left Dharan Bazar in eastern Nepal in mid-August, g...
Sita Chuchura. A Nippon University expedition made the first ascent of 21,978-foot Sita Chuchura, the second peak west of the French Col. The leader was Kiyoshi Seita and members included Masahiko Takahashi, Nobuyuki Hirato, Hiroshi Harada, Norio ...
Mount Logan Glaciology Project. Our party members were M. Demuth, R. Glykherr, B. Sheffield, G. Ferguson and me. Beginning on May 9 on the upper Quintano Sella Glacier, we dug and sampled snow pits at Base Camp, King Trench, King Col, Northwest Co...
Peak 12,893, East Face. This impressive 1200-foot wall is on the Great Western Divide north of Mount Brewer. Jeanne Neale and I climbed it in a long day early in September 1971. A short icefield was encountered at the base of the wall and also ris...
P 6206, Thui Group. James Fotheringham and I climbed P 6206 (20,360 feet), which is situated between Thui I and Thui II. We went from Base Camp at Sholtali along the Aghost Bar Glacier to the Qualandar Gum Glacier and from there directly onto the ...
Motion pictures: “Black Narcissus” and “Climbing the Matterhorn.” This is the first time that professional motion pictures have been reviewed in the A.A.J., but two which have recently come before our eyes require some mention.Black Narcissus, tak...
Manaslu Northeast-Face Attempt. A Colombian expedition of nine was led by Carlos Eduardo Gómez. They attempted the normal route. The maximum altitude reached was 7250 meters, where Camp IV was established. It was reached by Manuel Arturo Barrios a...
Putha Hiunchuli. The Seppyo Alpine Club Expedition was composed of Masahiro Kobayashi, Shuji Yasukawa, Kenzo Ishikawa, Satoshi Nara, Takashi Chigai, Hiroshi Aoki, Hidemitu Yamaguchi and me as leader. We placed Base Camp up the Kaphe Khola at 14,45...