The Merlin, Superfortress. In August, Mike Lilygren, Steve Bechtel, and Bobby Model returned to the Big Horn Mountains to finish a free climbing project on the Merlin, a castle-like tower located to the southeast of Cloud Peak. In 1994, they had p...
FALL ON SNOW, SKI MOUNTAINEERING, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, WEATHER, EQUIPMENT California, Lake TahoeOn March 28, 1993, at 0930, Peter Purgalis (54) fractured his left ankle during a fall while skiing with a full pack on the Trans-hut route west of Lak...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face Attempt and Tragedy. A large Korean expedition had as members leader Choi Chang-Don, deputy Yoon Jang-Hyun, Wee Gae-Roung, Kim Uong-Gie, Lee Eun-Sik, Song Yeong-Ho, Oh Sung-Gae, Park Chang-Gi, Kim Kyeung-Seon, Lee Seung-W...
Reru Valley, exploration. In August four senior Japanese mountaineers, Kiyoaki Miyagawa (68), Mitsuhiko Okabe (68), Akira Taniguchi (71), and I, (69), explored the Reru Valley. Well-known Indian mountaineering authorities, Satyabrata Dam and Haris...
HIT BY FALLING ICE—British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Ball Range, Stanley Peak. On July 13, 1975, John Adler, Hans Weidner, and two companions were climbing Stanley Peak by the northern side and were on the north glacier. Large ice blocks broke fr...
AVALANCHEAlaska, Glacier Bay National Park, Mount OrvilleThree climbers found dead April 25, on Mount Orville (10,495 feet) have been identified as Phil Kaufman (c. 30) and Patrick Simmons (c. 30), both of Seattle, and Steve Carroll (32) of South ...
Pharilapcha-Machermo Peak (6,017 m), first ascent of north face (The Bonfire of the Vanities), and southwest side (The Bridge of Lost Desire). The north face of this peak, dominating Gokyo village, remained virgin. Climbing it had been a dream of ...
Hazards in Mountaineering: How to Recognize and Avoid Them, by Wilhelm Paulcke and Helmut Dumler, translated by E. Noel Bowman. New York: Oxford University Press, 1973. 161 pages, over 100 photographs plus numerous diagrams and drawings. Hazards i...
From the livres des guides of the Favret family, now in the collection of Mons. Payot, the following American notes are taken :I take great pleasure in recommending François Favret to all lady travellers as a most modest, obliging and efficient gu...
Aconcagua South Face, Winter Ascent. A small Japanese group of the Tokyo club, U-Tan, managed to accomplish the first ascent of the famous south face on August 16 at the peak of the Southern Hemisphere winter. Participants were Tsuneo Hasegawa, le...
Navajolands. The Navajo still discourage climbing on the reservation. Spider Rock and Shiprock are definitely sacred to the Navajo. The northeast face of Jacob’s Monument was a new route made on April 11 by Kyle Copeland and Sue Kemp (III, 5.10, A...
Thalay Sagar, Brigupanth, 1980. Iwa To Yuki N° 81 reported on more of the Japanese expeditions to the Gangotri region. Hiroyoshi Yano led an eight-man expedition which unsuccessfully attempted the American route on Thalay Sagar. Base Camp was made...
Lhotse. A Japanese expedition led by Kazuyuki Takahashi climbed Lhotse by the normal route in the post-monsoon season. The Lhotse climb was for high-altitude acclimatization for a winter ascent of Everest via the South Col by this party and by ano...
Nuptse Attempt. Like the Italian team this season, Americans Rob Newsom and his companion wanted to climb the south spur of Nuptse, attempted previously by Jeff Lowe. This pair never even got onto the spur. They waited for the Italians to finish t...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, DARKNESSWashington, Nooksack TowerOn the weekend of September 1-2, 1984, a party consisting of Alex Bertulis, his daughter, Stimson Bullett, and Rimas Gylys (26) climbed Nooksack Tower. Bertulis is the acknowledged ex...
Mount Hunter, East Ridge. The Eihokai-Osaka Expedition was composed of Kazuteru Jo, leader, Katsuyuki Jo, Yasuyuki Yamashita, Shintaro Sekizuka and Hideki Nakai. They were flown by Cliff Hudson to the Tokositna Glacier on May 25. Base Camp, 10 mil...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED Colorado, Longs PeakOn June 16, 1986, at 1630, Ranger Jim Detterline at the Longs Peak Ranger Station received a report of a climbing accident which had occurred earlier in the day on Longs Peak. According to Joe Hol...
Cordillera de la Viuda, ascents. In late June 1999 Gerardo Telletxea and I arrived at the village of Culluhuay, in the northwest part of this cordillera. From the Leóncocha lake shore, where we camped, we explored the valleys draining west. On Jul...
Peaks in Northern Selkirks. On a week trip starting July 27, the undersigned, with Dave Wilson, John Wilson, Scott Highland, John Yeager, Tom Seim, Mark Zimmerman, Pete Owzarski, flew into a camp on the east side of the ridge between Austerity Cre...
Dhaulagiri Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Olivier Besson, Philippe Michaud, Guy Cousleix, Michel Beulné and me. We tried to climb the normal northeast ridge of Dhaulagiri. After an approach via the Mayagdi Khola we got to Base Camp on Nov...