Notes AAJ
Bhrikuti Base Camp Rubbish

Bhrikuti base camp rubbish. On arrival at base camp the British-Australian expedition was dismayed to find copious amounts of rubbish strewn around this pristine area. They collected a 25kg compressed-gas bottle and about nine porter-loads of tras...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Three O'Clock Rock, Darrington Area

Three O’Clock Rock, Darrington Area. In April Tom Saunders and I completed a new four-pitch route on this formation, “Tidbits.” Somewhat left of the Big Tree 1 route, we climbed a dike on an apron below several large roofs. Near the top of the sla...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Balch Camp Flake, Flicker of Time Arête and The Passionate Life

Balch Camp Flake, Flicker of Time Arête and The Passionate Life. On February 23, David Cotter and I climbed the east (right-hand) arête of the huge Balch Camp Flake, naming it the Flicker of Time Arête (5.9 AO). We started on the bolt ladder of th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, Peak 10552, Sentinel Turret, Found Arrow Spire

Peak 10552, Sentinel Turret, Found Arrow Spire. A second pinnacle on the east side of Sentinel Turret, about 300 feet below its summit, was found and climbed on August 26 by Ted Vaill and Brad Merry. Although it overhangs on all sides, a moderate ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Bouldering Alone, No Spotter, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hallett Creek

FALL ON ROCK, BOULDERING ALONE, NO SPOTTER Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hallett CreekOn July 22, 1994, Debbie Gruneberg (19) was bouldering near the July campsite by Hallett Creek on the North Inlet Trail. She slipped and fell 20 feet, ...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Southern California Section

A.A.C., Southern California Section.Section members gathered in July for a meeting at the Malibu branch of the Los Angeles County Library, home of one of the Club’s five branch libraries. The core consists of over 3000 volumes of mountaineering li...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Mt. Collier

Mt. Collier. 1903 first ascent by G. Collier, his brother and C. Kaufmann. Collier’s entry in Kaufmann’s book merely states that they went “along part of the arête joining the west end of Victoria to Mt. Whyte.” This is the only record of this asc...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Michelson and Tugak Peak, Brooks Range

Mount Michelson and Tugak Peak, Brooks Range. On June 6 Alaskan Robin Wilson and I took off from the Eskimo village of Kaktovik on Barter Island on the Beaufort Sea and flew over the still snowy Arctic tundra for the Brooks Range. After 40 minutes...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Fairweather, Carpé Ridge, and "Sabine"

Fairweather, Carpé Ridge, and “Sabine.” On June 5 Ton Hoeneveld, Roel Mulder and I were flown to the beach just southeast of Cape Fairweather. It took us eight days to transport our loads through the woods and over the Fairweather Galcier to Base ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado, St. Mary's Glacier

Colorado, St. Mary’s Glacier—On July 26, a party of ten boys from the Thornton, Colorado Church of Christ were on an outing in the area of St. Mary’s Glacier, 12 miles northwest of Idaho Springs, Colorado. The group was hiking up the glacier when ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall through Snow into Stream Cavity, British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mt. Assiniboine, Headwall

FALL THROUGH SNOW INTO STREAM CAVITY British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mt. Assiniboine, HeadwallKarl Klassen (24) and a companion were climbing the headwall on Mt. Assiniboine on 18 July 1979 by the scree and snow patches to the right of the main...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Olympic Mountains, Ridge of Gargoyles, The Turret and Upper Gargoyle

Ridge of Gargoyles, The Turret and Upper Gargoyle. First ascents of The Turret (6350 feet) and Upper Gargoyle (6400 feet) were made by Roy Etten, Kent Heathershaw and me on November 5, 1967 and June 9, 1968 respectively. These rock peaks are the h...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri I, Ascents and Tragedy

Dhaulagiri I, Ascents and Tragedy. After completing his ascent of Annapurna I, Carlos Carsolio, a Mexican who has climbed eleven of the 8000-meter peaks, joined Norbert Joos’s predominantly Swiss team on May 11. On the 14th, he, Joos, and four of ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Sermelikfjord, Southwest Greenland

Sermelikfjord, Southwest Greenland. In June and July the Austrians Toni Dürnberger, Ernst Herzinger, and Kurt Gilg and the Germans Stefan Rausch, Alois Häusl, Adolph Dosch, and Karlfried Wasel climbed in the previously unexplored mountains above t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Mount Adams, Lava Glacier Headwall

Mount Adams, Lava Glacier Headwall. During mid-September Half Zantop and I decided to take another look at the Lava Glacier Headwall, which to the first ascent party (A.A.J., 1961, p. 366) was a veritable "death trap.” We reached the Lava Basin by...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming - Tetons, Grand Teton, Northeast Buttress Variation

Grand Teton, Northeast Buttress variation. On the north flank of the east ridge of the Grand Teton, the substantial expanse of rock lying between the northeast couloir and the north face is divided into two separate buttresses by a nearly vertical...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia—Cordillera Apolobamba, Salluyo and Other Peaks

Salluyo and Other Peaks. A French expedition of sixteen established Base Camp on July 12 above Lake Chocñacota at 16,100 feet. A way was reconnoitered on July 14 to Camp I south of “Flor de Roca” at 17,725 feet. On July 16 Jean-Marie Galmiche, Pat...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Pucaraju, Ascents

Pucaraju, Ascents. It was reported that, in 1995, Cordier and Maynet climbed La Princesse au Petit Pois (TD) on the 300-meter south face of Pucaraju (5090m) on a gully line immediately to the right of the 1995 route Hot Line. In 1996, Abramowski a...


Club Activities AAJ
Iowa Mountaineers

Iowa Mountaineers. The club celebrated its 25th anniversary in 1964 and sponsored its 34th major outing or expedition without a single fatality or hospital accident. The annual banquet in April was attended by 140 members from six states and prese...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Dharamsura (White Sail), Southwest Ridge, P 20,300, and Papsura, Southwest Ridge, Kulu

Dharamsura (White Sail), Southwest Ridge, P 20,300, and Papsura, Southwest Ridge, Kulu. We left England by air in two groups, having hacked down our equipment to within the normal accompanied baggage weight allowed. Food was bought in the Kulu val...