Chimney Tower, P 5480 and Doonerak, Endicott Mountains, Central Brooks Range. In August bad weather prevented us from flying from Betties to the Franklin Mountains and so we visited the Endicott Mountains. We climbed Chimney Tower, P 5480 (1½ mile...
Mount Fairweather, 1981. Kim Grandfield, Dave Lunn and I climbed the classic south (Carpé) ridge in a light-weight expedition which began with a beach landing on May 17, 1981. Due to bad flying weather and confused geography, we landed at the next...
Colorado, Turkey Creek Canyon (2)—On September 20, Donald E. Powell (18) was killed while descending into Turkey Creek Canyon from U.S. 285. The boy apparently lost his footing on steep grass. He was exploring in the area with relatives. It was es...
FALL ON ROCKBritish Columbia, Garibaldi Park, Diamond HeadCharlotte Ackerely (32) and three companions were climbing an easy but loose and exposed route on Diamond Head about 0530 on 15 July 1979. Ackerely fell off the west side of the ridge, a di...
Cathedral Peak (Okanogan), South Face. While reading through an International Boundary Survey Report published near the turn of the century, a photograph of a high horn-like granite peak just south of the Canadian boundary more than attracted my e...
Dhaulagiri I, Solo Attempt in Winter. Swiss Franco Dellatorre proposed to make a solo ascent of the standard Northeast Ridge route of Dhaulagiri (8167 meters). He had assumed that he would be able to use the ropes that had been fixed by the teams ...
Devil’s Thumb, West Greenland. Last summer I led our third Italian Greenland expedition, consisting of Jean Bich, Antonio Carrel, Camillo Pellissier, Pierino Pession, guide in Valtournanche, Dr. Paolo Cerretelli, physiologist, Piero Nava and Mario...
Mount Adams, Southwest Chute. On the southwest side of Mount Adams, between the Avalanche Glacier and the regular south-side climbing route, lies a shallow gulley called the Southwest Chute. In years long past, this was a finger of the Avalanche G...
Death Canyon. Three more difficult rock climbs have been made on the readily accessible cliffs on the north side of the canyon entrance. The first was made by Michael and Jane Yokell on July 20, 1969, on the south face of Sentinel Turret. A total ...
Ausangate Attempt, Campa I and Mariposa, In early August we attempted to climb Ausangate (20,945 feet) from the south. Waist-deep powder snow kept us from climbing to more than 17,725 feet, 150 feet above our highest camp. In retrospect we know th...
Yanapacha, West Face. It was reported that the three-man team of Caffarena/Kleinberg/Mauriz climbed a possible new route on the west face of Yanapacha (5460m) in the Llanganuco Valley. The route had sections of 80° and a rock pitch V+ that was avo...
Idaho Alpine Chib. The high light of the year for the Idaho Alpine Club was a nine-day backpack trip along the crest of the Sawtooth Range. Twenty-five persons participated in the 48-mile trip. Five summits including Regan, Warbonnet, Cramer, Park...
P 20,570, Karcha Nala, Spiti. Our expedition was made up of John Forsythe, Dr. Foster Kelly, John Kerr, Peter Lamont, Terry Mooney and Tara Chand. On September 4 we arrived in the Kulu valley to find that the monsoon rains still affected the area ...
Chimbaya, Southwest Ridge, Tinki, South Face, and Other Peaks. Our expedition was composed of Dr. Martine Arragon, Rainer Bassler, Brigitte Kimmig and me. We went from Tinki to Base Camp at the foot of Caracol with three horses. All of us climbed ...
Illimani Norte, North Face. Franco de Fachinetti, Roberto Giberna, Tony Klingendrath, Dr. Giorgio Chiriaco from Italy, with the help of Father Giuseppi Ferrari, who has lived many years in Boliva, made a new route on Illimani Norte. After a traini...
International Meet, La Bérarde, France. Seven countries were represented at the meet, Great Britain, Netherlands, Yugoslavia, Sweden, Turkey, Spain and the United States. The hospitality of the French Alpine Club was excellent, providing us with a...
Kolahoi Glacier. Cashbrair (19,000 feet), an unclimbed peak in the Kashmir valley was climbed by eleven students of Punjab Agricultural University under the leadership of Dr. S. S. Dosanj. The peak adjoins the Kolahoi Glacier. An army team led by ...
Ngojumba-Ri. The Alpine Club of Meiji University sent out Misao Watanabe, leader; Susumu Takahashi, climbing leader; Yoshihiro Fujita, Shinichi Hirano, Takeo Odaka, Masanao Kobayashi, Masuru Irisawa, Teiyu Nagao and Naomi Uemura. They reached Namc...
Yala Peak, Langtrang Himal and Mardi Himal, Annapurna Group. Two climbing trips, organized by Sporthaus Schuster, went to Nepal. (There were six trips to other parts of the world.) From October 3 to 27 a group of 25 climbers was in the Langtrang H...
Kichatna Spire, North Ridge variation. On June 6 Eddie Phay, Jed Brown, and I had Paul Roderick fly us onto the Shadows Glacier, racked-up and ready to go. Nineteen hours after landing, we were on top of Kichatna Spire. Our route followed the orig...