Feature Article AAJ
Parachutes in the St. Elias Range

Parachutes in the St. Elias RangeWalter A. Wood, Jr.“THE McKinley is four days behind schedule. No, the Louise is full up. You haven’t a chance there.” Such was the news which greeted one unbearded and five bearded members of the fourth expedition...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Mexico, Durango, El Peñón (Cerro) Blanco, El Vedauwoo

El Peñón (Cerro) Blanco, El Vedauwoo. In March, on the 800'+ south face of Cerro Blanco, Todd Skinner and I established a new line to the right of the rightmost line pictured on p. 290 of the AAJ 2002, joining this existing line at the very top of...


In Memoriam AAJ
Walter Leroy Huber, 1883-1960

WALTER LEROY HUBER1883–1960Walter Leroy Huber became a member of the American Alpine Club in 1919 and was Western Vice-President 1935–1937. He was born in San Francisco January 4, 1883; all four grandparents came across the plains as pioneers. Aft...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Garhwal Himalaya

Garhwal Himalaya. An American-British expedition to Nanda Devi, the highest mountain in the British Empire was extremely successful this summer, as chronicled elsewhere in these pages. In addition we understand that this past fall a small group of...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Candlestick Tower, Canyonlands

Candlestick Tower, Canyonlands. This 450-foot butte was climbed for the first time in the middle of March by John Byrd, Jim Dunn, Doug Snively and me. We approached on foot from Island in the Sky. After two unsuccessful attempts on the looser nort...


In Memoriam AAJ
John Dupuy Graham, 1896-1981

JOHN DUPUY GRAHAM1896-1981John D. (Jack) Graham was one of the most vigorous members of the American Alpine Club. Although he began his hiking and mountaineering in 1927, he did the major number of his climbs after he had passed the age of fifty. ...


Book Reviews AAJ
H.W. Tilman: The Seven Mountain-Travel Books

H. W. Tilman: The Seven Mountain-Travel Books. Diadem Books, Ltd., London; The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1983. 896 pages, black and white photographs, maps. £14.95/$30.00.This book does not belong in a mountaineer’s library, it belongs on the bedside...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula, Summary of Activities

Summary of activities. Livingston Island is a rugged mountain massif, home to the highest point of the South Shetland Islands, off the northwestern tip of the Peninsula. It is also the location of a number of scientific research stations from diff...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Lahaul, Peak 6111m. Ascent

Peak 6111m, Ascent. An Indian expedition led by Jyotrimay Dutta made an ascent of Peak 6111m in August. This peak is situated near Baralacha La, to the north of Suraj Tal. The team set up Base Camp on August 20 at 4870 meters and Camp I at 5330 me...


Feature Article AAJ
The North Wall of Mount Edith Cavell

The North Wall of Mount Edith CavellYvon ChouinardMount Edith Cavell, in Jasper National Park, rises on its north side a full 4000 feet above its base. Even in normal years its cliffs are plastered with ice and snow. For Dan Doody and me it stood ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Pumori, Winter Attempt, 1990

Pumori, Winter Attempt, 1990. South Tiroleans led by Anton Stocker attempted to climb Pumori by the normal southeast face route but they could get no higher than 6750 meters, which they reached on January 22, 1990.Elizabeth Hawley


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Oregon, Smith Rock State Park

FALL ON ROCKOregon, Smith Rock State ParkOn Sunday morning, November 4, Jim Anglin (55) was descending into the Lower Gorge by a Fourth Class climbers’ way at the southeast end of Smith Rock State Park when he lost his footing and fell about 100 f...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, The Environs of Silver Star

The Environs of Silver Star. Three separate climbing trips were made the summer of 1952 to the granitic wonderland around Mt. Silver Star, one of the highest peaks in the Chelan-Methow region, harboring the most eastern glacier in the state of Was...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine-Chilean Patagonia, Cerro Torre, Maestri-Egger Route Attempt, Domo Blanco and Cerro Doblado

Cerro Torre, Maestri-Egger Route Attempt, Domo Blanco and Cerro Doblado. From April 2 to June 17, Gerold Dünser, Toni Ponholzer and I were based at the Bridwell Camp, hoping to climb the Maestri-Egger route on Cerro Torre. We stocked supplies at t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Army Mountaineering Association Expedition, 1959, Chogo Lungma Region, Karakoram

Army Mountaineering Association Expedition, 1959, Chogo Lungma Region, Karakoram. Last summer (1959) our Army Mountaineering Association sponsored an expedition to the Karakoram. The object was to introduce new people to the area and to train them...


Feature Article AAJ
The East Buttress of Mount McKinley

The East Buttress of Mount McKinley William A. Read Mount McKinley, or Denali, a far more deserving title, had for each of us been a long kindled ambition. Through the years most of us had been involved in some preparation to climb the mountain ...

| Keywords
| Published 1963 | Author William Read


Feature Article AAJ
Chimborazo and Monja Grande

Chimborazo and Monja GrandeJ. Richard HechtelTHREE attempts on Iliniza, the shakedown peak for our expedition, had failed and no wonder—in a half a week its two summits had been visible for a total of fifteen minutes. The rock faces of the north s...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Western Kokshaal-Too, Navlikin and Malitskovo Glaciers, First Ascents

Navlikin and Malitskovo glaciers, first ascents. At the start of September our ISM expedition made the now-familiar trip via Naryn to the Kokshaal-Too and established base camp at the delightful lake below the west side of the Navlikin Glacier. Th...


Book Reviews AAJ
Un Uomo va Sui Monti

Un Uomo va Sut Monti, by Giorgio Brunner. Bologna: Edizione Alfa, 1957. 499 pages; ills.; drawings. Price 1500 lire.This is a long and unusual book about mountains by a man who cares for them passionately. Giorgio Brunner is an engineer from Tries...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table II

1951-721973NumberTotalNumberTotalGeographicalofPersonsofPersonsDistrictsAccidentsDeathsInvolvedAccidentsDeathsInvolvedCanadaAlberta502065101British Columbia7324105424Yukon Territory9822000Ontario111000Quebec111000West Arctic112000Practice Cliffs11...